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1st Trip on the Lake

Yambers

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
576
Reaction score
976
Points
177
Location
Indianapolis, IN
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2020
Boat Model
Limited S
Boat Length
24
We had a 75 degree day so we loaded up and drove the 1.5 hours to the lake for our maiden voyage. Had some good moments, and some not so good moments.

The good:
1. Backed down the ramp, jumped in the boat while the wife jumped in the drivers seat of the truck, fired up the boat (after running blower of course) and backed right off. No issues.
2. Boat runs flawless. 3 people and full of fuel we got up to 48mph. Great wake from what I could tell at about 10mph.
3. Got some good practice on the controls, as did the wife. Practiced docking quite a bit.
4. First time ever loading this type of boat on a trailer and got it dead on with my 1st attempt.
5. Im assuming the cobra jet steering helped. Didnt really drive it before it went on.

The not so good:
1. Only played around a couple of hours and burned through fuel. Did quite a bit of playing though.
2. Steering wheel isnt 100% aligned, but not a big deal.
3. Port engine runs slightly lower rpm's than starboard engine. I didnt figure this out for a while and had found myself fighting the steering (kept pulling left). Once I manually adjusted for it, it goes straight as an arrow.
4. As seen in another post, it seemed to drain quite a bit if water for only 2 hours on the water. Maybe thats normal.
5. Trailer didnt pull "bad", but for sure needs radial tires.

It was the wifes first time driving a boat or backing up a trailer. Backing up the trailer to retrieve the boat took a "few" attempts, but that sexy lady of mine got it done.

And wouldnt ya know it, we were so excited that between the 3 of us on the boat, we didnt get 1 damn picture. Haha
 
Having such a good time that you forgot photo’s is awesome! Y’all were living in the moment! Great post!!!
 
Check the anchor locker drain port. It has been a problem for years now. It allows water to come in between the inner and outer wall.
 
Check the anchor locker drain port. It has been a problem for years now. It allows water to come in between the inner and outer wall.

Thanks for that. I had read it in another thread and meant to check mine. Is there a specific part # to replace it?
 
I also heard of water coming in from a hatch where the cleanout ports are. I plan on unscrewing it and placing a bead of caulk in there, then reattaching it..
 
I think some guys are going to a stainless steel thru hull. At least one simply pumped silicone in between the walls after placing a vinyl tube in.
 
Thanks. I will take a look. I know I hate some of the finishes Yamaha did, like the hole in the anchor locker that looks like they punched it out with a screw driver.. I watched a video about their wonderful inspection process and automated hole drilling, then just laughed.
 
All... As I stated in my original post, the port engine seems to run about 500 or so RPM'sower than the starboard when the throttle handles are aligned. I was having to slightly increase the port throttle to get RPM's to match up closer.

How do I adjust the 2 so they match? I havent dug into it at all. Is there a cable adjustment?
 
All... As I stated in my original post, the port engine seems to run about 500 or so RPM'sower than the starboard when the throttle handles are aligned. I was having to slightly increase the port throttle to get RPM's to match up closer.

How do I adjust the 2 so they match? I havent dug into it at all. Is there a cable adjustment?

I believe so... not totally sure about your model, but there should be two rheostats in the engine bay, one on either side where the throttle cable stops. With the engine off ;-), put both throttles in full forward and check the rheostats to verify that they are in the same position as each other.
 
Thanks @FSH 210 Sport. I will check into that. Hopefully a simple adjustment.
It is a simple locknut and adjuster similar to a bicycle brake adjuster. I need to adjust and tighten mine a bit...I think WOT dropped about 100rpm and I think the cable has stretched a bit as it broke in. I notice the starboard on mine is a bit lower rpm as well.
 
@FSH 210 Sport I opened it up and looked at it today. Seems straight forward. I want to get it on the water and see where the RPM's are at idle. I figure if I can make them match there, they should match at WOT. I am sure I will tweek it for a bit and get them really close.
 
I believe so... not totally sure about your model, but there should be two rheostats in the engine bay, one on either side where the throttle cable stops. With the engine off ;-), put both throttles in full forward and check the rheostats to verify that they are in the same position as each other.
You can check the return voltage on the throttle position sensors to make sure they match. Not sure what Yamaha uses to determine throttle position, but the sensors should read relatively the same.
 
You can check the return voltage on the throttle position sensors to make sure they match. Not sure what Yamaha uses to determine throttle position, but the sensors should read relatively the same.
Aaaaaand this is done how? Lol
 
Voltmeter...but you need a wiring schematic as well...
Well, some people are lactose intolerant, but I am electrical intolerant. Always told people if I wanted black nails I would paint them black, I dont need electricity to do it for me. Lol
 
Before you go down the rabbit hole of thinking your boat is sinking....1. I leave my bildge switch on, Always. 2. Maybe you just didn’t tighten the plastic piece of shit drain plug enough?...Buy a nice metal drain plug and you’ll feel better. 3. I grew up around boats my entire life, 35 years...my Dad’s Ranger bass boats always drained a little water and so does my 2017 AR210.

Glad y’all had fun keep it up.
 
Before you go down the rabbit hole of thinking your boat is sinking....1. I leave my bildge switch on, Always. 2. Maybe you just didn’t tighten the plastic piece of shit drain plug enough?...Buy a nice metal drain plug and you’ll feel better. 3. I grew up around boats my entire life, 35 years...my Dad’s Ranger bass boats always drained a little water and so does my 2017 AR210.

Glad y’all had fun keep it up.
Do you have a part number for the metal drain plug?
 
@FSH 210 Sport I opened it up and looked at it today. Seems straight forward. I want to get it on the water and see where the RPM's are at idle. I figure if I can make them match there, they should match at WOT. I am sure I will tweek it for a bit and get them really close.

You really don’t match them at idle... while the boat is on the trailer engines off, check the rheostats (I looked it up today and they are referred to as APS 1 & APS 2 one for each engine) both should be sitting on their stops. Once you have done this check how loose each cable is going to the throttles, chances are one will have more slack than the other-the one with the most slack in the cable will be the engine that is not achieving the higher revs-.

Now, place both throttles in the full or WOT position and see if both are hitting the stops. Chances are the one with the lower revs is not on the stop or is not as fully towards the stop as the engine that has the higher revs. I believe it takes two 10mm wrenches to adjust the cables, adjust the cable so that both APS‘s are hitting the stop at full throttle.

Now return the throttles to the idle position and make sure both APS’s are sitting on the stops, this is very important as this is the idle position.

I believe that Yamaha states that if they are within 500 rpm of each other this is normal, but it is a little maddening.

Then go and test the boat. You may find it takes some further adjustment to get the levers in synch with each other.

Hope that helps!

Oh, if you do not have a service manual you may want to order one.
 
You really don’t match them at idle... while the boat is on the trailer engines off, check the rheostats (I looked it up today and they are referred to as APS 1 & APS 2 one for each engine) both should be sitting on their stops. Once you have done this check how loose each cable is going to the throttles, chances are one will have more slack than the other-the one with the most slack in the cable will be the engine that is not achieving the higher revs-.

Now, place both throttles in the full or WOT position and see if both are hitting the stops. Chances are the one with the lower revs is not on the stop or is not as fully towards the stop as the engine that has the higher revs. I believe it takes two 10mm wrenches to adjust the cables, adjust the cable so that both APS‘s are hitting the stop at full throttle.

Now return the throttles to the idle position and make sure both APS’s are sitting on the stops, this is very important as this is the idle position.

I believe that Yamaha states that if they are within 500 rpm of each other this is normal, but it is a little maddening.

Then go and test the boat. You may find it takes some further adjustment to get the levers in synch with each other.

Hope that helps!

Oh, if you do not have a service manual you may want to order one.
The help is greatly appreciated. I will take a closer look in the morning.
 
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