2007 SX-230 Stereo Upgrade

[mark_m]

The fuel hatch broke my will last weekend. I put the boat away with the stud in the back right corner of this picture mocking me.

 

[Bruce]

Only one bolt was an issue?

I ended up drilling three of mine out. https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-e...nk-access-hatch-to-add-sound-insulation.6309/

For a bolt in a similar postition to yours I simply drilled a 9/32" hole where it had been and re threaded it with a new 5/16" bolt.

 

[mark_m]

Only one bolt was an issue?

I ended up drilling three of mine out. https://jetboaters.net/threads/my-e...nk-access-hatch-to-add-sound-insulation.6309/

For a bolt in a similar postition to yours I simply drilled a 9/32" hole where it had been and re threaded it with a new 5/16" bolt.

Bruce, I had two that I had to twist off the head with an easy out. Once done I went after the stud with a vice grip. It was not an easy endeavor, i shot all of the day last Sunday getting that hatch off.

 

[swatski]

@mark_m I just found your install thread - it looks awesome!
Are you messing with the fuel hatch just to run wires?

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[mark_m]

@mark_m I just found your install thread - it looks awesome!
Are you messing with the fuel hatch just to run wires?

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Yes. I wanted the access to run the wires for the port side speakers to the helm and for the power and ground wires to the amp in the helm.

If anyone has alternate suggestion on how to get to the helm easily for the port side speakers I'm all ears.

 

[Bruce]

I ran speaker and power wires through The engine compartment to get to the port side without any need to remove the fuel tank hatch.

I suggest adding some sound deadening material to the bottom of the hatch while you have it off.

 

[MattFX4]

I also ran amp power wires and speaker wires through engine compartment to get to helm from the port side. Used conduit to protect wires, and zip tied to existing wiring running right under where floor meets hatch

 

[mark_m]

Thanks @Bruce and @MattFX4. I am already committed with the hatch off.

In hindsight avoiding hatch altogether might have been better approach. @OCMD

 

[swatski]

Yes. I wanted the access to run the wires for the port side speakers to the helm and for the power and ground wires to the amp in the helm.

If anyone has alternate suggestion on how to get to the helm easily for the port side speakers I'm all ears.

I agree with what's been said. Going around the bow is another good route.

 

[mark_m]

Battery switch, acr and battery install. I was able to position the acr parallel to the engine hatch not by being good, but being lucky.

The hatch bolt broke below the hatch line with more vice grip assistance from @Coastal44

I may just put a white rubber cap in the hatch top and never mess with it again!

ToDo:
Amp mount and transom speakers, remote

 

[mark_m]

Finished starboard side hole and dry fit. Finished new transom remote.

Note: the 200i remote includes inline terminator and tee block and terminator. Inline terminator on the transom remote nema -> 6meter (included with 200i) cable up the starboard side. Finish with tee connecting the 6m cable and the 750 and your good to go. The head unit has a checkbox you select to power the remote, check that box and you are good to go.

 

[mark_m]

K got the port side done tonight between the rain. Next is the power runs to amp and hook up speakers to amp! Looking forward to dialing in the amp!

 

[mark_m]

Power runs were wrapped up Sunday and a very brief input sensitivity session, was all set for the water Monday.

The JL 650s amplified sound awesome, with the transoms only there was plenty of oomph to keep the party going while we hung out back on the gang plank.

I need to set the crossover frequencies yet- is 80 hz the appropriate cutover with the sub?

 

[mark_m]

Power runs were wrapped up Sunday and a very brief input sensitivity session, was all set for the water Monday.

The JL 650s amplified sound awesome, with the transoms only there was plenty of oomph to keep the party going while we hung out back on the gang plank.

I need to set the crossover frequencies yet- is 80 hz the appropriate cutover with the sub?

I started with 80hz and played around with the input sensitivity by ear until I "heard" the sub overpower the coaxials and backed it down until it blended in.

Very happy with this setup! Thanks Odin! @Earmark Marine

 

[MattFX4]

@mark_m how are you liking your stereo? I'm mostly finished with mine, but need to do some fine tuning I believe to get the most out of the sub. Mine isn't that loud right now, so maybe I need to adjust gain up a bit.

 

[mark_m]

@mark_m how are you liking your stereo? I'm mostly finished with mine, but need to do some fine tuning I believe to get the most out of the sub. Mine isn't that loud right now, so maybe I need to adjust gain up a bit.

Love it! I agree on the fine tuning bit, I have a bit more work to do there. I used crude technique with YouTube and Bluetooth connectivity to get the 50hz, 1khz tones. I think they are available for download direct from jlaudio site and I think I'm gonna redo using transfer to usb stick and try that way.

I need to get plastic loom going too and clean up where the speakers connect up to the channels. Also was thinking of using rca splitters to simplify the volume. I currently run all four zones, using the amp fed each channel separate. As such I can control each pair of coax independently, which is great but really what I am after is zone 1 with the four channels in the cockpit plus the sub and zone 2 the transom coaxials. Currently I have all 4 zones split out.

How are you setup Matt?

 

[MattFX4]

I'm running 8 mx650's off the m800 amp, and 1 m10ib5 sub off of a m200 amp bridged. I also tuned using the 1khz and 50hz test tracks from JL audio's website via Bluetooth from my phone. Starting to wonder if that's the best way, or saving the files to a usb stick like you mentioned. I have sub amp set on low pass and around 120hz. The other amp running the main speakers is set to high pass and at 80hz. I'm sure I need to change that setting, but haven't got around to it. I will say that I turned the loudness feature of my head unit on and it made the sub louder. Still think I need to adjust something because I feel like the other speakers are overpowering the sub. I have a wet sounds ws420 that I need to install so will probably wait until I have it in to adjust anything else.

 

[mark_m]

I'm running 8 mx650's off the m800 amp, and 1 m10ib5 sub off of a m200 amp bridged. I also tuned using the 1khz and 50hz test tracks from JL audio's website via Bluetooth from my phone. Starting to wonder if that's the best way, or saving the files to a usb stick like you mentioned. I have sub amp set on low pass and around 120hz. The other amp running the main speakers is set to high pass and at 80hz. I'm sure I need to change that setting, but haven't got around to it. I will say that I turned the loudness feature of my head unit on and it made the sub louder. Still think I need to adjust something because I feel like the other speakers are overpowering the sub. I have a wet sounds ws420 that I need to install so will probably wait until I have it in to adjust anything else.

I think the stick is the better way because you have the phone driving the volume of the test tone and I don't remember what level I used on the phone itself.

I think you need to circle around that 120 hz value consistently for the crossover frequency. While I have not yet done it perfectly for my boat setup, for home theater I play with the gain on the sub, increasing the level until it overpowers the music, then decrease until it fades back in seamlessly.

I think for my setup I have the input sensitivity set a little too low still. Part of the issue is primary source for my setup is iPhone and I'm trying to figure out what to do with the volume level at the phone output in relation to the rest of the system.

 

[bronze_10]

Where did u put your amps with this install? I am in a weak signal zone so the pics arent loading. I took what little bit of amp i had out and redoing it this spring.

 

[mark_m]

I mounted the amp in the helm compartment. I put the amp on a cutting board and drilled thru holes and was able to attach to the seat cushion screws that protrude in the compartment. I used the existing nuts and mounted the amp that way.

It will be our third season with the setup from @Earmark Marine and I could not be happier!

The boat is in its winter slumber so I can’t get you any pictures. Hopefully I have described it well enough you understand the approach/ solution that I used.