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2016 240 Ballast Setup Question: Valves?

Scottie

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
451
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192
Location
Helena, Alabama
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2013
Boat Model
X
Boat Length
21
@Scottie do you have a link to those cleats? Do they match? Babbitt’s shows $110 each for the actual Yamaha cleat.
They do match. (2013 212x). I got them from Amazon. Part #F1T-U1616-11-00. Should be able to find them for $70 or less.
 

CNofo

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
18
Reaction score
2
Points
72
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2015
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I'm making progress, but it is a LOT of work.
I will start a new thread when I'm a bit more advanced and when I know it's working.

I finished what I think was probably one of the most taxing and stressful jobs I have ever done on any boat (and that includes transom rebuilds). I installed the intakes/drains. Very happy with the results, I will fill in the details - there is a lot to it.
Here is just a quick pic or two of the finished product:
(outside - right over the "rudder")
View attachment 53817

View attachment 53818

(inside - I'm gonna need a chiropractor, lol)
View attachment 53819
I see you didn’t install shutoff valves for the inlets. I was wondering if that’s a step that can be skipped?
--
 

swatski

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
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Location
North Caldwell, NJ
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I see you didn’t install shutoff valves for the inlets. I was wondering if that’s a step that can be skipped?
Good question! It's a choice I made, after weighing perceived risks of various possible points of intake failure. How much safer, or less safe, would the final install be with vs w/o big valves?

For starters, those intakes, the way they have been installed, are many times more secure than all other factory through-hull fittings, cooling hoses and clamps, etc., so definitely not the weakest points for potential failure w/catastrophic water entry, at least not my mind, lol.

My thinking is/was - the FRP hulls of these newer Yami boats are so thin - I just didn't like the idea of having a bunch of heavy duty brass valves sitting there, each one w/~ two pounds of brass on a stalk wiggling about (assuming large enough size for I.D. w/o restrictions); I'd be worried about those things shaking back there and possibly cracking the FRP shell, especially when trailering, and we do trailer a bunch.

Personally, the way I ended up securing the intakes, considering the type of hoses and materials used, I feel much better about it as far as structural integrity and chances of failure as compared to having 4 heavy valves sitting in a small area at the bottom of the bilge.

The boat has been through a lot of highway miles and some very rough waters and everything holds up with no signs of material fatigue.
YMMV, that's just the way I think about it.

EDIT: and, of course, I do have excellent electric valves in the form of reversible pumps, that I operate from the dashboard, they are sitting two feet up in the wet compartments.
--
 
Last edited:

CNofo

Jet Boat Lover
Messages
18
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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2015
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I agree with the bulky ball shutoff valves being in that location. What about a in line shutoff spliced into hose a little from the bottom? I am wanting to install at least 3 for my 2015 AR240 and just looking for pics and advice before ordering.

Parts costs? I was wondering if there are parts that you can do without or must haves??

$500 per unit sounds like?
 

swatski

Jetboaters Fleet Admiral 1*
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Location
North Caldwell, NJ
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2016
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I agree with the bulky ball shutoff valves being in that location. What about a in line shutoff spliced into hose a little from the bottom? I am wanting to install at least 3 for my 2015 AR240 and just looking for pics and advice before ordering.

Parts costs? I was wondering if there are parts that you can do without or must haves??

$500 per unit sounds like?
Absolutely, that would work, better than a heavy brass gizmos, or the stupid Yamaha plastic seacock intakes - I had seen those broke from sitting on trailer bunks...

I would go with Wake Makers for quality and good fit. @haknslash has just been dealing with them, he should have fresh intelligence. They give a discount to our members.

In my experience, they are not the cheapest but they have high quality products and they are helpful in designing and putting together your system, as long as you are patient and call several times until you click with a rep/advisor you like/trust.

--
 

CNofo

Jet Boat Lover
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18
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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2015
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AR
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24
I am so ready to be done... I will say - whatever Wakemakers charge for those installs, they are undercharging, lol.
Dry run tested all electric and plumbing today - all seems to be working! Now just need to connect all the bags, loom all the wiring and clean everything up, it is going to take forever...
Hopefully water testing next weekend.
View attachment 54604
View attachment 54605
 

mhjeter

Active Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
40
Location
St Joseph, MO
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
FINALLY, placed my order with Wakemakers (ouch - $$$$) and a bunch of ancillary items from knukonceptz and the like.

I also spent the weekend doing some planning and prep work.

Here is the rear wet storage back wall that I will run intake hoses through (red arrow) and may need to cut an access hole (X in a circle) if necessary, but I will also be installing a speaker (5" hole further out), so that might be enough.

View attachment 53223View attachment 53225
View attachment 53224

I also needed to clean up the underseat compartments, especially the port side - move the batteries, charger, and the EPA vapor lock/canister, along with the fuel hose. It kicked my a$$.
Here are some before and after:
Before
View attachment 53226View attachment 53232
View attachment 53231View attachment 53229

And after
View attachment 53233
View attachment 53234

Still need to build a carpeted battery enclosure, but that's pretty strait forward. The worst was relocating the fuel hose and the EPA canister as I needed to modify the bulkhead a bit.

--
FINALLY, placed my order with Wakemakers (ouch - $$$$) and a bunch of ancillary items from knukonceptz and the like.

I also spent the weekend doing some planning and prep work.

Here is the rear wet storage back wall that I will run intake hoses through (red arrow) and may need to cut an access hole (X in a circle) if necessary, but I will also be installing a speaker (5" hole further out), so that might be enough.

View attachment 53223View attachment 53225
View attachment 53224

I also needed to clean up the underseat compartments, especially the port side - move the batteries, charger, and the EPA vapor lock/canister, along with the fuel hose. It kicked my a$$.
Here are some before and after:
Before
View attachment 53226View attachment 53232
View attachment 53231View attachment 53229

And after
View attachment 53233
View attachment 53234

Still need to build a carpeted battery enclosure, but that's pretty strait forward. The worst was relocating the fuel hose and the EPA canister as I needed to modify the bulkhead a bit.

--
Looking to do the same on my AR240 and wondering where you relocated eva canister to? Do you have any pics? Also guessing you had to purchase more fuel line to reroute straight over to engine bay and then back down?
 

mhjeter

Active Member
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
40
Location
St Joseph, MO
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
AR
Boat Length
24
I ended up going with a rather traditional setup much like @swatski. My system is essentially the same. I mounted the pumps in the engine compartment and did my own custom wiring with a new fuse panel
in the helm. I chickened out on my bedliner idea and instead I removed the carpet from the engine walls and replaced with MLV. I filled all of the gaps too. I think this will help big time with noise. One inch plumbing for all of the inlets and 3/4 for the air outlet/overflow with 1 way valves so they suck dry. Through hull inlets/outlets just like @swatski which I think is great placement. Can’t wait to get some board time behind it.

I ended up going with a rather traditional setup much like @swatski. My system is essentially the same. I mounted the pumps in the engine compartment and did my own custom wiring with a new fuse panel
in the helm. I chickened out on my bedliner idea and instead I removed the carpet from the engine walls and replaced with MLV. I filled all of the gaps too. I think this will help big time with noise. One inch plumbing for all of the inlets and 3/4 for the air outlet/overflow with 1 way valves so they suck dry. Through hull inlets/outlets just like @swatski which I think is great placement. Can’t wait to get some board time behind it.

Do you have pics of fuel hose and evap relocation? Also, what size fatsacs are you using? 400lbs? I have a ‘18 AR240 and I’m planning stages for a ballast setup.
 
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