2020 Shoreland'r Trailer bunk board replacement

[suke]

The bunks screw to the brackets from the side as you can see here:
View attachment 204556
When I removed mine I wasnt able to use the head of the screws on account of corrosion so I pried out or cut

I got #10 stainless screws in 2" think that will work? Looked roughly the same size just by looking at it. Just in case I can't reuse them. Mine look brand new still.

 

[Floridaman79]

I happened to have an extra screw lying around and it is a .190" OD and 1.5" long. I dont know why a 2 inch wouldnt work, but predrill good because the stainless is pretty soft and its easy to strip the head out.

 

[suke]

Well due to these mounting on the side there's really not much more I can do until I get to the ramp and get those brackets in position. Wish like every other trailer I've come across they mounted from the bottom. That way worse case scenario it can be mounted on top of the carpet.

I've never used the adhesive before but the carpet I bought recommended it so why not. This stuff is worlds thicker than what is on there now. I reckon I could staple in the middle on both sides and leave 18" or so left to do. That way I'm not hand stapling 1000 staples.

 

[Tjw961]

Cut back the carpet.....ONE freaking screw!?! That's it!? OMG! How long is that screw? Looks in good shape could probably reuse it. I have some pretty good sized deck screws if I need it. View attachment 204555

Just isn't going to be as fast as a swap as my old trailer was. I was able to do all the work at home, rip off the old board and bolt the new ones on in less than 30 mins.

Thanks for this detail and photo's. Something I will definitely look out for when a new trailer is in my line of sight. I don't know if I like this kind tbh. I too thought swapping out in the parking lot was easy, when the boards get mounted from the bottom as I described above. If you're going to glue, have you thought about getting glue part done and maybe not wrap them as much? That way you could leave the sides open when you put the boat back on and do the staple afterwards. I dunno, just thinking out loud. Even on mine I left a gap right down the bottom center of the board so the carpet wasn't totally wrapped around the board so they would dry faster (at least that was my thought to make them last longer?)

Has anyone drilled out from bottom on these brackets and used screw/bolt approach on these that are shown in this picture? Retro fitting them to be like previous ones?

 

[suke]

Thanks for this detail and photo's. Something I will definitely look out for when a new trailer is in my line of sight. I don't know if I like this kind tbh. I too thought swapping out in the parking lot was easy, when the boards get mounted from the bottom as I described above. If you're going to glue, have you thought about getting glue part done and maybe not wrap them as much? That way you could leave the sides open when you put the boat back on and do the staple afterwards. I dunno, just thinking out loud. Even on mine I left a gap right down the bottom center of the board so the carpet wasn't totally wrapped around the board so they would dry faster (at least that was my thought to make them last longer?)

Has anyone drilled out from bottom on these brackets and used screw/bolt approach on these that are shown in this picture? Retro fitting them to be like previous ones?

That's what I did. I left about 14" on each end. That should give me enough room to drill a pilot hole and put the screw in.

 

[Floridaman79]

Did you rip the 2x6 down before covering? I had to shave a little off the edge to fit the 2x6's I bought in the bracket.

 

[suke]

Did you rip the 2x6 down before covering? I had to shave a little off the edge to fit the 2x6's I bought in the bracket.

Nope. I figured a 2x6 was a 2x6. I'll add a mini sledge to my tools I bring. ? Or some pliers to bend out the tabs a bit if needed.

 

[Floridaman79]

Nope. I figured a 2x6 was a 2x6. I'll add a mini sledge to my tools I bring. ? Or some pliers to bend out the tabs a bit if needed.

Unfortunately I dont think that is going to work. If you bring a chisel you could probably remove enough material around the tabs.

 

[Tjw961]

Unfortunately I dont think that is going to work. If you bring a chisel you could probably remove enough material around the tabs.

Not directed towards you @Floridaman79, but the creator of this mess.

Whomever put together this design with screws on sides then cover with bunk carpet, etc should be flogged.......

To speed up doing this in the parking lot (or anywhere else) approach IMHO, you need the bracket width with the carpet already on it total width to be the same as the bracket width so that you just lay the wrapped/carpeted board in there and zip the screws in from the side. Not being more narrow that a std 2x6 board before it has carpet on it!

Solutions being designed this way drive me crazy! I don't mind putting some work into taking care of my stuff, but this shouldn't be a math jenga thing either. Maybe I should go into the boat trailer bracket business.

Seriously though, thank you all for sharing this kind of detail for what is really (or should be) a basic maintenance item we all have to watch/do from time to time. No matter where you have your boat, or where you do this. Being able to know what to address to save time/money/etc/frustration for me is invaluable. I like to enjoy my boat as much or more than I do updating and fixing it as needed (or wanted ). Good stuff here!

 

[suke]

Unfortunately I dont think that is going to work. If you bring a chisel you could probably remove enough material around the tabs.

I'll bring my multi tool and cut out a section if need be. Seems odd if the stock doesn't support a normal 2x6, where would they even find a sort of 2x6. ?

 

[suke]

Unfortunately I dont think that is going to work. If you bring a chisel you could probably remove enough material around the tabs.

Got it done. The ramp was still a little busy, and storms were starting to pop up. The brackets were super tight, one side needed just the tiniest bit of clearancing. Multi tool made quick work to get it to fit in. This was more of a pain in the ass than it should be. The screws that I took out were barely hand tight. That was interesting. Anywho, it's swapped now and I'll replace the others in the off season.

 

[drewkaree]

Sounds like the 2x6 dimensions aren't the issue, it's thicker carpet than the OEM that's causing the problem. I also think that while the design of the brackets isn't as easy to swap, and seems wonky, it's less prone to serious damage if there's a failure. If the bolts from underneath fail, or the board breaks or rots, and moves when loading, the potential exists to drag the end of a lag bolt along the bottom, at speed, when you are least expecting it.

Trade-offs, or attempts to improve things? ? I guess it depends

 

[suke]

Sounds like the 2x6 dimensions aren't the issue, it's thicker carpet than the OEM that's causing the problem. I also think that while the design of the brackets isn't as easy to swap, and seems wonky, it's less prone to serious damage if there's a failure. If the bolts from underneath fail, or the board breaks or rots, and moves when loading, the potential exists to drag the end of a lag bolt along the bottom, at speed, when you are least expecting it.

Trade-offs, or attempts to improve things? ? I guess it depends

The brackets are bolted under the carpet. That's part of the problem is you can't staple the board completely at home and then just screw it in/on once at the ramp.

 

[Tjw961]

Well glad you got past the most important one for now. Thanks for sharing these details. If you come across a better/faster way on the rest later, please share as well.

 

[drewkaree]

This also popped up in the memory banks today, but I can't remember who did this (@Bruce?)...someone either had to replace a bunk board, or wanted to try it out, or something...the board was replaced with a longer one, which engaged the keel sooner, and helped with recovery at the launch. If someone recalls, or knows of who posted it, maybe tag them or post the link for the thread. Not sure if this would work with these installs that aren't the same type of mount as older trailers, but just something to contemplate

 

[anmut]

I performed this last week at the ramp on a weekday. Went really quick, surprising enough.

1. Pre-packed any and all tools I could've needed. What I actually ended up needing was:
   1. Razor utility knife
   2. Socket set
   3. Staple gun & staples
   4. Rubber mallet
   5. Hammer drill
   6. Drill
   7. Bit set
   8. Needle nose pliers
   9. New screws - I went with decking screws in star-drive flavor, because they're made for outdoor weather, they're coated, and they bite anything.
   10. Pre-cut bunk 2x6 treated. My 21' trailer, front bunk, was 7'.
   11. Carpet made for boat trailer bunks, bought off of Amazon
2. Launched boat and tied to public dock.
3. Pulled truck and trailer to somewhere close and within sight.
4. Removed bad bunk (two bolts), flipped it over on it's top, on top of the wheel fender.
5. Cut back carpet to expose bracket screws.
6. Found that two of four screws had sheared off.
7. Measured brackets from end of board for new board.
8. Put new board on top of old bunk, measured for brackets.
9. Pre-drilled and attached brackets. Pre-drilling was absolutely not necessary with new and extremely wet treated wood, but whatever.
10. Flipped new bunk over on top of the carpet strip.
11. Stapled the absolute hell out of it on the bottom.
12. Bolted back to frame of trailer.
13. Recovered boat.

I can tell that since replacing the bunk, I've trailered and recovered twice, and now my transom straps stay tight. Before this, and for a long time, my transom buckles (which are ratchetting/aftermarket, not OEM) would loosen up slightly. Moral of the story: if you're transom straps are loosening while trailering, check your bunks for damaged boards.

 

[KC-AR240]

Nope. I figured a 2x6 was a 2x6. I'll add a mini sledge to my tools I bring. ? Or some pliers to bend out the tabs a bit if needed.

My original 2x6 wasn't quite as wide as my new one. The bracket needed (persuasion to get onto the board.

 

[suke]

My original 2x6 wasn't quite as wide as my new one. The bracket needed (persuasion to get onto the board.

Same. Where does Shorelander find these not quite 2x6's? LOL! I had to use my multi tool to trim just a smidge off of one side. Other side was tight but fit perfect. Granted I'd rather it be tight.....if it was loose that would pose a bigger problem.