210 FSH steering cable replacement

[Grassman]

Has anyone replaced or confirmed the part number for steering cable replacement on a 210 FSH? I see some people saying to use F4A-U1470-00-00, but diagram only shows one cable and mine has 2.

 

[HangOutdoors]

The cable is one piece but has two cables in it. That is the correct cable.

 

[Prodock]

Has anyone replaced or confirmed the part number for steering cable replacement on a 210 FSH? I see some people saying to use F4A-U1470-00-00, but diagram only shows one cable and mine has 2.

Did you order it? My cable is getting sticky on my 2020 FSH. I tried the lube process that others have tried today, and it seems a little better, but still a little sticky. I looked into ordering a replacement and saw the same thing you mentioned, the diagram shows one cable, not two.

 

[HangOutdoors]

It is one unit that has both cables together.

 

[Grassman]

Did you order it? My cable is getting sticky on my 2020 FSH. I tried the lube process that others have tried today, and it seems a little better, but still a little sticky. I looked into ordering a replacement and saw the same thing you mentioned, the diagram shows one cable, not two.

I did and steering is like new again. Kind of a pita to replace but cable was an exact replacement.

 

[HangOutdoors]

What did you have trouble with. It was one of the easiest things I did to my boat. Except that I did it on a hot ass day

 

[Grassman]

Had to beat the crap out of them to get the rear section out because of sealant, cables were a pain to run due to poor access, and numerous cuts from unfinished fiberglass. And a hot ass day

 

[HangOutdoors]

Ah. You could of poured a bit of DeBond on them back there and it would of loosend up the sealeant

 

[Prodock]

Thanks peeps. I’m seriously thinking of just replacing before I get in a bad situation, but I’m a little concerned about starting such a project. Mind you I’ve done a lot of mechanical jobs on boats, cars and trucks…but don’t want to get in a pickle.

 

[Prodock]

And, it looks like a lot of both cable runs are hidden underneath.

 

[HangOutdoors]

It's not that big of a job. I would recommend when you pull out the old cables tie some string yellow construction string on the end so once you pull them out you can tie the string to the new cables and it makes it easier to pull them through the hidden areas.

Should take you a couple few hours at the most. That is how long it took me the first time. I have helped other members replace theirs and I can do it around an hour now. Most of the time is just center the wheel and hooking up the linkeage to the jet pumps.

Plus it will enable you to pull the hatch cover clean it and use some sealant when putting it back together.

 

[Prodock]

Thanks HangOutdoors. That’s kind of what I was thinking from replacing other cables on boats in that past. Appreciate it.

 

[Prodock]

New cables in hand, starting removing the old and ran into an issue getting the 7/8 inch nut off at the transom. Ordered an offset socket from Amazon based on advice from another thread on this site…so I guess it won’t quite be a one hour job as it’s currently on hold for 2 days until I get the socket. One more question… has everyone removed the whole bucket cover at the stern to get the cables out or once you get the nut off on the outside of the transom can you push the cables through into the bilge (or is there too much sealant?).

 

[HangOutdoors]

No need to remove the bucket cover. Just push em right though into the bilge. There is a washer on the inside as well. Once you push them through it gets easier. The socket that I use is an O2 sensor socket. You should of been able to get one from your local auto supply. Works like a champ. Have done 6 cable replacements, including mine to date. Just helped someone last night local as well. I bought 1 off of amazon, and then got another from Auto Zone. Since I lost my first one, and now have found it.

I would grab some debond or other silicon/adshive solvent and while you are waiting for the socket, get some on the silicone inside around the cable and washer where it comes through the hull. Good time to take care of your clean out tray and if you have a marine store around of have one, a second bilge pump down in the bilge. Just some thoughts.

 

[Prodock]

Thanks HangOutdoors. I have some silicone sealant and thread lock for when I put certain parts back together. Didn’t think of autozone, but I ordered your suggestion from Amazon.

 

[Prodock]

A couple things I learned. Take all the washers off the new cable and after the cable gets through the engine compartment to the bilge area you will have to put washers back on. At least if you have a 210 FSH. Also, I had to take the plate off the back hatch where the clean outs are. There is no way to access the holes coming out of the bilge without removing it and at least in my case, that’s where I put the washers on. All in all it wasn’t a bad job but probably took me 3-4 hours total. It steers with one finger now, but I have to sea trial it to make sure I don’t have a gusher leak yet.

 

[Ericd]

At $500-$600 for the steering cable assembly and looking at 3-4 years for replacement, is there something we should be doing proactively to extend the cable life?
I believe sitting in storage for six months is definitely a contributing factor for me, but even with throwing lots of Yammy Lube on them when the boat goes into storage they get stiff.
How can we better protect the cables?

 

[Dixemon]

At $500-$600 for the steering cable assembly and looking at 3-4 years for replacement, is there something we should be doing proactively to extend the cable life?
I believe sitting in storage for six months is definitely a contributing factor for me, but even with throwing lots of Yammy Lube on them when the boat goes into storage they get stiff.
How can we better protect the cables?

absolutely, IMHO, you should be flushing the lines at the end of every season. I have good results with corrosion x, but im sure others have their own favorite recipe. During the season ever so often i will pull my sterring and reverse cable boots down and let any water drain out via gravity. I have used marine grease under the boots when i reinstall them, also, I think Cobra jet recommends the toilet ring wax. I have used that as well and it works good. Ive been in salt water 3.5 years now and steering is still smooth, Of course i will start having problems now that i typed this response.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

absolutely, IMHO, you should be flushing the lines at the end of every season. I have good results with corrosion x, but im sure others have their own favorite recipe. During the season ever so often i will pull my sterring and reverse cable boots down and let any water drain out via gravity. I have used marine grease under the boots when i reinstall them, also, I think Cobra jet recommends the toilet ring wax. I have used that as well and it works good. Ive been in salt water 3.5 years now and steering is still smooth, Of course i will start having problems now that i typed this response.

Do you mean that you pull the steering cables out? Or just pull them off the steering wheel and elevate them ?

 

[Dixemon]

Do you mean that you pull the steering cables out? Or just pull them off the steering wheel and elevate them ?

Im not sure i follow. I power flush with a hose filled with corrosion x from the transom using an air compressor. I wrap a trash bag around the steering gearbox to catch all the material coming out the other end. with the boat jacked up, i often pull the little black boots down from the cables at the transom to let any trapped water to escape. does that make sense?