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252SE - Nice Aft - Build Thread

Adding to small updates:

I purchased a Yeti 45 cooler to go in the cooler spot. Was a tough fit, ripped out the mat and it was a little better but not great. Found out Yeti sells sliding feet, and WOW, the cooler slides in and out easy. Probably didn’t need to tear out mat so will look for OEM piece. This is a must for owners of this boat.


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Just got her back from being tinted. I got the top of the line stuff at 15% darkness. Picture is rough because it’s right in the sun. I will get a better one.

If anyone needs their boat tinted in Tampa Bay, check out Reeders Auto tint in Largo, they did a great job and was cheaper than almost all the quotes I see on here.

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Got my SpeakerSox over the weekend. Payment seemed sketchy but he was legit. I’ve been out on the boat a lot lately. I am behind on my 10 hour service so need to get that done this week.
 

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I have a great video of some dolphins from yesterday but it won't let me upload .mov ... any thoughts?
 
I have a great video of some dolphins from yesterday but it won't let me upload .mov ... any thoughts?
I don't think you can upload movies; I think you have to upload it somewhere else (e.g. YouTube) and link to it.
 
Did some work on the boat today. Oil change done, super easy with a buddies oil extractor. Hardest part was waiting for it to get all the oil. Each engine took every ounce of the 4qts. The dip sticks don’t have a gauge on them, any idea what is healthy level?

I also had issues with my starboard seat not sliding back (lever would not move) Disassembled that and found the release pin was frozen solid. Hammer and chisel finally freed it, lubed it all up and put it back together, it now is smoother than the port side. I am sure I won’t be the person this happens to. Here are some pics of the mechanism.

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Well ended up with a soundbar. Put an offer for the WetSounds 10 amplified soundbar on eBay for $500 and they accepted, BNIB.
 

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On this episode of fixing shit Yamaha messed up: front hand rail.

At some point over the week the front handrail bolt came completely undone. So today I fixed it. What a royal PITA. Had to remove the speakers, the cup holders, and the black insert. Put thread locker on the bolts and tightened it back up. The black insert is brutal to put back in with the cushions still there. If I did it again I would hope for the best a try a super long extension but not sure it would work.

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Have you noticed if the engines/ boat are any quieter than you last boat (sx210 with tr-1's)?

Much quieter for sure.
 
Ordered the fish tape, all other methods failed. Looks like it will be easiest run wire down the forward facing tube.
I had great success using a fish tape to run my satellite antenna cable. There are no obstructions in the tube. Took about 5 minutes. Granted, my tower is different. (212SE) I'm not taking the tower off to run cables. Hell no.
 
I had great success using a fish tape to run my satellite antenna cable. There are no obstructions in the tube. Took about 5 minutes. Granted, my tower is different. (212SE) I'm not taking the tower off to run cables. Hell no.

The fish tape kept getting stuck in another opening in the tower. Some 4 gauge wire worked best as a fish line. I got my ass kicked doing that side and now I have to do it again for the soundbar lol.
 
The fish tape kept getting stuck in another opening in the tower. Some 4 gauge wire worked best as a fish line. I got my ass kicked doing that side and now I have to do it again for the soundbar lol.
I'm thinking about doing a soundbar as well. I'm not a fan of the tower speakers. Like you, I need the HTX-6"s
 
I'm thinking about doing a soundbar as well. I'm not a fan of the tower speakers. Like you, I need the HTX-6"s

Where these speakers are, it is really hard to hit your head on them. They sound phenomenal, and throw extremely well. I am excited to put them on some real power. The soundbar is more for center, front of the boat, but will be used to throw sound as well.
 
@adrianp89 Did you see this. Pretty good idea:
Running tower speaker wire - magnets!
I successfully ran speaker wire up the tower yesterday in a 2019 AR195. I tried a new trick to get a lead rope through the tower and it worked really well so I thought I would share.



I used some neodymium magnets to drag the lead rope down the tower. First, I drilled the tower speaker holes using a step bit like others here. Be warned, those metal shavings fly EVERYWHERE. I put down a few towels to catch the shavings but it really didn’t make a difference.



For the lead rope, I used duct tape to secure one magnet to the end of the rope. Next I inserted the rope into the tower speaker hole and then I used a second magnet on the outside to capture it and slowly lead it along the tower tube. The factory towers are non-magnetic so this worked extremely well. I was able to easily run the lead line all the way to the bottom of the tower bracket in just a few minutes, at any time I need to stop the magnets held each other in place.



At the bottom, I fashioned a retrieval tool out of a long zip tie. I used duct tape again to secure another magnet to the end and used this to fish out the lead rope at the bottom end of the tower bracket. It took a little longer to catch the magnets together because it’s a blind operation, but it actually wasn’t that bad.



After that it was an ordeal running two 14awg wires up the tower due to their thickness (they barely fit together in the small gap where the tower attaches to the boat) but the lead rope did it’s job to pull the speaker wire through. In hindsight I probably used too light of a rope because I was concerned it would break considering how much friction the speaker wires had, but it held and I was able to get them through eventually.



Anyhow, the lead rope took only about 10 minutes to get down the tube so I would definitely suggest that to anyone doing this! Of course running the speaker wires back up took considerably longer due to the tight squeeze…
 
That is a pretty smart idea.
 
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