adrianp89
Jetboaters Admiral
- Messages
- 5,403
- Reaction score
- 4,396
- Points
- 392
- Location
- Tampa Bay, FL
- Boat Make
- Yamaha
- Year
- 2021
- Boat Model
- 252SE
- Boat Length
- 25
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I used fish tape after struggling for a while with other methods (we won't say what those were...lol) made it not to bad after that
I've thought of just taking the tower off if it isn't too heavy and running the needed cabling that way. The forward facing tube's hole is so freaking small and when its attached to the boat its tough to get anything else thru. Wonder if drilling it larger on both sides is doable when the tower is off or folded forward.
Did you have to shorten that part or did it work as is? Major improvement over the plastic fitting! How about a photo of the finished drain?Replaced it with a stainless steel fitting and some 5200. I will be testing out this weekend if I still get water.
Did you have to shorten that part or did it work as is? Major improvement over the plastic fitting! How about a photo of the finished drain?
@Adrian. How difficult was the removal of the plastic drain fitting?
It was kind of crappy but it only took 5-10 minutes.
I put blue painters tape (several layers) all around the area. I then started with using a plastic trim tool to pull it out. I got it out about 1/4", then very carefully used a stronger metal pry tool to get it another 1/4" or so. By this point I had about 1/2" out, which was enough for me to grab onto with some pliers and pull it straight out.
Ok, so it's basically pressed in, no adhesive?
Exactly - it is just a ribbed pressed fitting.
I thought about tapping it, but it is really odd/difficult location, I don't know how well it would work.
Could you have used the new fitting to tap it out from the inside? So add a ton of painters tape to the fitting on the flared end and invert it and then try to tap it from the inside? Is the diameter similar? I ordered mine but it wont be here till end of month for some reason.
I just replaced my anchor locker drain over the weekend with the same fitting as adrian (thanks for the link!) and would agree with everything he said above. I laid down painter's tape around the old one, which came out in 5-10 minutes with some pliers and a twisting motion. It's too tight on the inside to get anything in there to tap it out; I tried with a hammer and a screwdriver but had no success. With the old fitting removed, I had to bore the hole out a tiny extra bit to get the new fitting in. There's no need to shorten the length of the through fitting but I also couldn't get the nut all the way down on the inside due to fiberglass being in the way on the underside. I just cranked the nut down as far as I could and added 5200 all the way around the bolt and the fitting and it's not going anywhere. Didn't think to take a pic but can snap one the next time I'm at the storage unit.
@adrianp89 I love the custom seadeck as a place for the boat name! Vertical space is so limited on the transom area with these. Did that come from JetBoatPilot? Mind me asking cost on that? Did the old stuff come up in one piece such that it could be re-installed in the future if need be (i.e. selling the boat) or was it toast? TIA!
Thanks for the info! That makes sense to rip up the old stuff in strips. I'll have to look around for a Marine Mat dealer in my area and see if it's worth pursuing.I had Cast Away Customs do it for me, they have a local office here. They came out and quoted me, sent a follow up guy for measurements, then sent me some CAD drawings so we could nail down the exact design (size, font, position), then came out and installed it. It was ~$550 for everything. Install felt high ($100) because they did not do removal, but I think it is just a base fee of getting someone out to the house, as I have heard an entire boat is less than $300.... I just didn't want to take the risk of laying it down wrong and messing it up. The SeaDek is not a perfect match, but you can really only tell when looking for it. I am OCD so if I did it again I would find a local Marine Mat installer and have them do it for a perfect match.
Removal of old was tough and came out in lots of pieces, I actually did this by design. I noticed as I was pulling it up, it started to tear in the creases. So I used a razor blade in the recessed areas and pulled it up in smaller pieces.... this made it pretty clean except around the edges. I then used some professional grade goo-off to get the rest of the residue off. Took me about 3 hours, if I did it again I could do it in 2.
I don't think so, I don't think there is enough room to swing something with enough force to tap it out.
I put the painters tape on the outside of the boat to protect the paint, then I used pry tools to help pull it out, then used pliers to finish pulling it out. Weird it is taking so long, it came in two days for me.
The tools I used are similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Tresalto-Aut...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==