Ar240 rgb led install

[CraigAR]

Excellent, thanks!

Did you disable your white lights when you ran the wires through those, or just squeeze the wire around the existing bulb? And, the stock lights still work? If they still work, there's no chance of getting hot and melting your led wires?

When you remove the factory light to fish the rgb wire through, that light assembly is fully enclosed so it never touches the wire. I did not cut into any factory wire at all. These LEDs are seperate from the boat lights.

 

[Rhino]

On the same site I bought the kit. Its called the expansion pack and comes with a few extra led strips, longer wire and y splitters. Website is in the 5th post from the top. Yes I forgot that I cut in the rgb speaker lights. I just spliced them into the wire from the kit.

OK.. Sounds good.. Thanks for the info... Ordering now... Lol

 

[Mainah]

Some folks have had issues with the audio system picking up pwm signal noise from the rgb. Shield rca cables for the amps and sheilded 18/4 pure copper stranded plenum rated commercial secuirty wire for the runs to the rgbs will eliminate the noise.

 

[swatski]

@swatski @Rhino @tabbibus @dnicholas47 @Hana Here is detailed video of the install. Dont mind the bad video I'm a little under the weather and I dont really do how to videos so be easy on me. This kit has now been installed for 7 months and has held up great.

Thank you! Much appreciated!
Love your mods and the projects you post, very educational, always.

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[dnicholas47]

Thanks @CraigAR! Don’t sell yourself short on your video abilities. I just hope if I try this I can make it look half this clean.

 

[Delvis]

love it, im ordering a set right how.

 

[swatski]

@swatski @Rhino @tabbibus @dnicholas47 @Hana Here is detailed video of the install. Dont mind the bad video I'm a little under the weather and I dont really do how to videos so be easy on me. This kit has now been installed for 7 months and has held up great.

@CraigAR Again, thanks for great info and video instructions, much appreciated!

I finally got to start on mine today! Ran into problems right away, lol.
Good thing I started testing as I was installing, found out I got a faulty control unit...

It's weird. The unit does not work when hooked up via the fused connector, which is how I want it installed.
I tested everything with the multimeter and confirmed I have continuity, correct voltages on all the wires leading inside the unit, it just wont turn on...
The weird part is that it works when plugged into the cig lighter (different plug/connector) albeit the "synch music" function does not work even then, it just turns the unit off.
I spent 3 hours troubleshooting, unsuccessfully:


But, having it plugged into the cig lighter I was able to test the strips and managed to mount one side of the boat:






Love the lights, this is a great kit.
Just need to figure out the module!

I waited too long for the install.. and the return window has passed but I'm hoping they will treat me well and replace the control unit with out too much hassle.

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[Mainah]

@swatski I believe that the controller may be bad. I also do very strongly recommend taking that $5 DMM to the skeet range or using it for batting practice. It is reading .9 volts DC with the leads on the seadek. Invest in any Fluke or mid to high grade Klein. These days they are calibrated and have auto ranging. Once in voltage mode you may have to press a button to swap from ac to dc. Many of the modes will likely have multiple options. Bottom line is that they will be far more accurate and trustworthy than the harbor freight coupon freebies. Even if just sticking it in the boat or car toolbox those cheapies are not worth a second of anyone’s time.

For everyone who does have a decent dmm do this ... Go put on latex gloves and take the back cover off of it right now to observe the condition of battery and the battery terminals. If it has been sitting unused in your tool box for 5 years you likely have an electro-chemical science experiment going on under the cover that needs attention.

 

[swatski]

@swatski I believe that the controller may be bad. I also do very strongly recommend taking that $5 DMM to the skeet range or using it for batting practice. It is reading .9 volts DC with the leads on the seadek. Invest in any Fluke or mid to high grade Klein. These days they are calibrated and have auto ranging. Once in voltage mode you may have to press a button to swap from ac to dc. Many of the modes will likely have multiple options. Bottom line is that they will be far more accurate and trustworthy than the harbor freight coupon freebies. Even if just sticking it in the boat or car toolbox those cheapies are not worth a second of anyone’s time.

For everyone who does have a decent dmm do this ... Go put on latex gloves and take the back cover off of it right now to observe the condition of battery and the battery terminals. If it has been sitting unused in your tool box for 5 you likely have an electro-chemical science experiment going on under the cover that needs attention.

LOLOL. I have had this DMM forever I guess it's time for a new one. Indeed, this thing is acting up!

I was concerned with continuity and connections and not missing something obvious like powering off of switched source while off - that kind of stuff. I do think the module is faulty.

I'll see what OPT7 say, there is 1-year warranty on the kit.

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[swatski]

So... I got a warranty replacement control module from OPT7... Same issue with the new one. Argh. It works when powered by cigarette lighter plug-in, but not when hardwired with the fuse connector...
What to do?
Should I just grab my soldering iron and rewire the cigarette lighter plug connections? Any issues with that? @Mainah

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[Mainah]

Hmmm. If leads have +12v nominal then they should be able to power +12v accessory if properly siszed for draw regardless if cig lighter or from fuse block. I would want to trace down the ghost and eliminate it before proceeding. That said the cig lighter leads are a robust amperage for accessories.

 

[swatski]

Hmmm. If leads have +12v nominal then they should be able to power +12v accessory if properly siszed for draw regardless if cig lighter or from fuse block. I would want to trace down the ghost and eliminate it before proceeding. That said the cig lighter leads are a robust amperage for accessories.

I do not like powering off of the cig lighter plug, I tried two different fuse slots for power (in two amps) with the same result - not working... I have a query posted with OPT7, they don’t have a phone number to call, but in the meantime I’m thinking if there is a simple solution to this by just re-wiring the cig lighter plug of the controller - cutting the wires and making a hard connection to my power distribution block, with a fuse?

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[Mainah]

I do not like powering off of the cig lighter plug, I tried two different fuse slots for power (in two amps) with the same result - not working... I have a query posted with OPT7, they don’t have a phone number to call, but in the meantime I’m thinking if there is a simple solution to this by just re-wiring the cig lighter plug of the controller - cutting the wires and making a hard connection to my power distribution block, with a fuse?

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What do you mean by tried two different fuse slots in two amps? Why not just power directly from the power distribution block eliminating the cig adapter (I am assuming +12v DC for the controller like most led stuff). Looks like a standard +12v DC barrel plug on the controller side to me and you can buy those with screw terminals or prewired on amazon for cheap.

Back to your amp fuse comment. Were you trying to grab power from a fuse? Are you sure you were using the hot side? What were you using for a ground?

iCreating 10 Male + 10 Female DC Connector Plug, 12V 5.5 X 2.1mm Barrel Power Jack... iCreating 10 Male + 10 Female DC Connector Plug, 12V 5.5 X 2.1mm Barrel Power Jack Adapter Connector for CCTV Security Camera, LED Strip Light, DVR, Car Rearview Monitor System Video - - Amazon.com

[Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Wires] 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A Male & Female C... Amazon.com : [Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Wires] 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5 mm, Ultra Thick 18AWG) : Camera & Photo

 

[swatski]

What do you mean by tried two different fuse slots in two amps? Why not just power directly from the power distribution block eliminating the cig adapter (I am assuming +12v DC for the controller like most led stuff). Looks like a standard +12v DC barrel plug on the controller side to me and you can buy those with screw terminals or prewired on amazon for cheap.

Back to your amp fuse comment. Were you trying to grab power from a fuse? Are you sure you were using the hot side? What were you using for a ground?

iCreating 10 Male + 10 Female DC Connector Plug, 12V 5.5 X 2.1mm Barrel Power Jack... iCreating 10 Male + 10 Female DC Connector Plug, 12V 5.5 X 2.1mm Barrel Power Jack Adapter Connector for CCTV Security Camera, LED Strip Light, DVR, Car Rearview Monitor System Video - - Amazon.com

[Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Wires] 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A Male & Female C... Amazon.com : [Real 18AWG 43x2pcs Wires] 10 Pairs DC Power Pigtail Cable, 12V 5A Male & Female Connectors for CCTV Security Camera and Lighting Power Adapter by MILAPEAK (2.1mm x 5.5 mm, Ultra Thick 18AWG) : Camera & Photo

I have never used one of these before, it is a connector with a double fuse holder that plugs into a (hot) fuse slot (I didn't take good pics, but it is the one with one red fuse in, the other one comes from a power source) - not sure how I would screw it up albeit it is certainly possible!
They include several of those connectors with different sided fuses, I spliced it using my own heat shrink butt connectors.
I plugged this double fuse connector (with two good fuses in) into either the main fuse slot in my powered sub (using the sub ground for ground), or into the main fuse holder on the power wire to one of my Clarion amps (using main distribution bus for ground), tested the voltage coming out, showing +12...V. Not sure what the heck...?

I will follow your suggestion and just power the controller directly with the plug - I will cannibalize the cig lighter plug wire that came with the kit.
Thank you, I feel better.

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[CraigAR]

@swatski not sure what's up with that unit, very simple install and I have had no problems in over a year with it. I literally removed 1 fuse from my wetsound amp, put in the connector and replaced the fuse and also grounded to the amp and its been flawless. Let me know what the final outcome is.

 

[swatski]

@swatski not sure what's up with that unit, very simple install and I have had no problems in over a year with it. I literally removed 1 fuse from my wetsound amp, put in the connector and replaced the fuse and also grounded to the amp and its been flawless. Let me know what the final outcome is.

I think it could be a bad batch? The lights and every thing is great, and I really love the kit connectors that take any guessing out of the picture. Just some bad luck with the controller, not totally unique based on the reviews.
The company was very responsive she quick to send a warranty replacement. I can’t complain! I’ll work around it one way or the other. I would recommend the kit here, and your vids are very helpful. Most importantly - the kids love it!

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[ralphsmithiii]

Finally beat the rain and finished my install with opt-7 rgb lights. Sorry about the lame music it's the only radio station I could get while recording with my phone and the long video, i was messing with all the features. Really love how I can turn the system to all white, change to 16 different colors, strobe,fade, speed up or slow down and play to music. The opt-7 aura kit is all plug and play. I added 2 expansion kits for a total of 12 strips. Cost $89 plus shipping.

This video was awesome and very well done. So much that I think I'm also going to pull the trigger and grab the same kit(s) to install some LEDs. Originally I didnt think I'd ever need them since I hadn't been out ever on our boat at night, until recently, since the sun sets at 8:15pm est or so and we've cruised back to the docks in the dusk. Seeing other boats with LEDs on made me look for this type of write-up!

 

[T.K.]

So... I got a warranty replacement control module from OPT7... Same issue with the new one. Argh. It works when powered by cigarette lighter plug-in, but not when hardwired with the fuse connector...
What to do?
Should I just grab my soldering iron and rewire the cigarette lighter plug connections? Any issues with that? @Mainah

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I just installed one of these kits based on OP’s feedback and used 12v cord like you did to test everything but then hardwired when done installing. I put new heat shrink ring terminal on negative wire because I could see that the factory terminal was crimped on without any bare wire exposed so that didn’t seem like it would pierce the jacket to make contact with such small gauge wire. I didn’t bother to check if the factory negative terminal worked before I swapped it but just thought I’d throw a possible simple fix out there to maybe save some headache especially since you had same results with 2 controllers.

 

[B0at1n]

Just ordered this kit and the 3.5 inch and 12 inch expansion packs for the back deck.

I have a single battery setup, do you think I need to run a second battery? Or maybe just have a jump box and call it good.

 

[swatski]

Just ordered this kit and the 3.5 inch and 12 inch expansion packs for the back deck.

I have a single battery setup, do you think I need to run a second battery? Or maybe just have a jump box and call it good.

I do not know the exact draw but it is very minimal with those LEDs.

(A big amp or subwoofer - that’s different!)

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