Blue Seas Add a battery kit Questions

[txav8r]

@Art Traver , they can't level themselves if not on a charger. The ACR will only close and combine the batteries when under an acceptable charge between very defined criteria.

 

[Art Traver]

As I understand how the ACR connects and disconnects is depends on voltage. For example you have battery B that for some reason develops a bad cell or you have your bilge direct wired to it and it is drawing the battery down. Even with the switch in the off position current will flow from battery A to battery B, until the the voltage reaches a floor (and I do not recall what it is) and then the ACR disconnects to protect battery A. This assumes battery A is above I think 12.7v and maybe this is also the disconnect voltage?

 

[addisonm06]

i believe with your proposed setup, with the ACR on the Battery side, with the switch Off, everything will be off, minus whatever is directly connected to a battery. In this instance, the ACR is open.

So current will not flow from A to B; unless there is a charge on one of the batteries for a certain period of time ( i believe it 13.2v for so many seconds) than the ACR will close and combine the batteries. This is a reason why a single bank charger will charge both batteries with the ACR on the battery side.

See the below diagram; that may help. I believe Mel actually sent that to me when he helped me with my setup a ways back

 

[txav8r]

Here is the chart right off the 120A ACR (blue sea). Guys, if there is no charging current present, the ACR can not close and combine the batteries. It takes a DC voltage of 13.6V for at least 30 seconds to close the ACR, but it will also close after 2 minutes at only 13.0V. That is a charging voltage, not a voltage at rest.
The ACR is a "A"utomatic "C"harging "R"elay. As you can see from the chart below, it takes a minimum charge to close the ACR, and to open it, a minimum "charge" voltage to close it. Meaning that a fully charged battery at rest can not close it and flow into a fully depleted battery. And...the over voltage and under voltage lockouts add additional protection and parameters. It is just a switch, with parameters to allow it to operate. It is a great piece of equipment that can help you meet a number of different scenarios.

 

[txav8r]

Thanks for reposting my diagram @addisonm06 , I reviewed it as I have done periodically when this discussion comes up. I wanted to make note of a note on it. Remember that the "Combine" setting on your Blue Sea Add A Battery Switch, is an EMERGENCY only position. I often read of guys combining them to balance, charge, whatever you want to call it. That is just defeating the purpose of two separate battery systems and doing away with the redundancy. No need for two separate systems if your going to do that. If a bigger battery is all you wanted, just put in two identical make/capacity/age batteries in parallel and be done with it. No need for an ACR or multi-function switch, just a simple On/Off switch will do. The reason we use the ACR and multi-function switch is to give us more dynamic range of use. We could really go into great detail with this discussion and what is to be gained (or lost), but that has been discussed many times before here (and over there). It isn't as complicated as it seems, but you simply must determine what it is you want it to do, before you add it. It won't help you unless you understand what you want to accomplish...it might even make what your wanting harder to accomplish, depending on what that goal is.

 

[addisonm06]

@txav8r
I completely recall the functionality/purpose of the set up. It took me a lot of time, questions, and understanding to realize my end goal. Ultimately, i wanted a completely separate house and starting battery. I wanted the security that no matter what, the boat will start at the end of the day. I appreciate now, and did back then all the help, hopefully i can share with others!

 

[Art Traver]

I stand corrected. There were some other threads on another site discussing the Blue Sea ACR and there were comments regarding the LED coming on indicating the batteries were connected even with the switch in the off position. That is why I opted to use the load side connection for the ACR in my application. It still functions as intended when the engines are running to provide charge to both batteries.

 

[txav8r]

@Art Traver , I suspect I was involved in the thread on the "other site" as well. You are absolutely correct that red LED will be on after a charge, and they will be connected, due to residual charging voltage, but it dissipates quickly and if you even turn the key or stereo, it will go out when the head voltage from the charge dissipates. No intent to correct you or anyone else, just tryin. To help all of us understand 12V systems and the nuances they can bring. I always like using the water analogy...like which battery charges first, the thirsty one...and why does the ACR LED show connected following a full charge...because the head pressure hasn't dissipated. My temporary sprinkler system gave me another example yesterday. I have 600' of downhill road frontage wth fresh sod in the ditch. I set up hoses with timers to water 100' at a time with sprinkler hoses. The pressure down about 400' into it blew a branded new heavy duty hose end off! Lots of electrical things follow similar physics like water. But they all don't! Anyway, an ACR is a great device if you figure out what you need and apply it correctly. Now @maboat , you need to come in and clear up MY misuse of the terminology! Because current/charge/volts/crews/ etc. have different meanings and definitions that I just can't keep straight! lol

 

[0627Devildog]

Done. Just in time for a week on the lake.

 

[txav8r]

Very clean, nice install @0627Devildog !

 

[0627Devildog]

Thanks. . . .was trying to take my time. But it's fireworks night at the lake. . . . Woohoo!

 

[0627Devildog]

Thanks for reposting my diagram @addisonm06 Remember that the "Combine" setting on your Blue Sea Add A Battery Switch, is an EMERGENCY only position.

This made me think of a post installation question. . . . . So as you may be able to see from my install pictures there is nothing connected to the "Load" side of my "House" battery. This runs contrary to my proposed diagram in a sense because I do not have any "accessories" other then what is on the "main power" cable.

Should I be hooking up the "main power" cable to the Load Side of the House battery? I had wired it this way because I planned on using the "House Battery" as an emergency backup for now until I install amp/ballast pumps/spare 12v outlet.

 

[txav8r]

I haven't gone back and reviewed your install diagram and think you have the ACR between the battery lugs on the switch don't you? You can place your loads on either post, the house will just be backup to all loads. Or, you can place the ACC loads on the house battery. If I recall, you have a solar charger to maintain the batteries and wanted the ACR to supplement the loads while running and top off the low battery when it could. In reality, your house has no load as wired, and stands as backup. It should be topped off before each time you go out from your solar charger, if either battery were drained from excessive loads, it may not too completely but it should be pretty full. Hope I answered your question.

 

[Rhino]

Done. Just in time for a week on the lake. View attachment 58674

How did u secure the tray from sliding forward?

 

[0627Devildog]

How did u secure the tray from sliding forward?

Very carefully. . . Drilled a simple drop pin.

 

[Rhino]

Very carefully. . . Drilled a simple drop pin.

Did you drill through the wood as well, Or just thought the tray? Trying to figure out if the pin is just supported at the top or both

 

[0627Devildog]

Did you drill through the wood as well, Or just thought the tray? Trying to figure out if the pin is just supported at the top or both

Thru the tray, into the wood. Though I ran it for almost half a season beforehand and it never moved.

 

[Rhino]

Thru the tray, into the wood. Though I ran it for almost half a season beforehand and it never moved.

Cool... Thank you for the quick response..

 

[Jerlane]

I'm bumping this thread as I am about to add a second battery to my AR190. I am planning to use a Duracell 27 series deep cycle as the house battery. I have purchased a Clarion 1410 amp to add a little boost to the speakers and don't anticipate adding any subwoofers or additional amps. The second battery may be overkill, but I don't want to worry if we're parked for a while and listening to music. An ounce of prevention, right?

I have a few questions. The first is whether or not I should just add the second battery on the same side or move it to the starboard side? Is list really a big deal? It would obviously be easier and cheaper to keep it on the same side, but I don't want any regrets later.

Next, depending on what side of the boat I place the battery, I need to know exactly what to get in addition to the kit and battery. Here's what I think I need:

1. Blue Seas kit
2. Battery
3. Tray
4. Cables: what length, gauge, fittings, how many, where to buy? This is the biggest question.
5. Busbar? I think I can get away without this since I'm not adding a bunch of accessories, is this right?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

[zipper]

Old thread...I have the add a battery kit for our Yamaha and BlueSea was having delivery issues due to an arson fire recently. However, I bought a Promariner Prosport 20a-3 bank for the Beneteau. The battery cables are attached and fused. I might suggest this 12a 2-bank for you. Promariner Prosport 12 Gen 3 Heavy Duty On-Board Marine Battery Charger - 12 Amp - 2 Bank or you can get the 15 or 20a versions. A battery box is better than a tray and you would need to buy another battery switch and another battery.