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Finally finished stereo upgrade on my 2015 242 Limited S

Matt, I have done and listened to countless sub systems using several methods including all those discussed here. Some of this depends on acoustics. Some on personal perception and tolerances (what is your reference for good sound...systems made for movies or music, etc.). And some on the material played. If you listen to a lot of contemporary music with synthetic drums and bass lines then you are going to have a different standard of expectations than if you listen to mostly music with studio musicians on real drums and a string bass. As for the acoustics, if you are going to run a small-sealed-enclosure-type subwoofer, the best sounding option is when the sub driver is direct-radiating with both the sub driver and enclosure sandwiched and sealed against the seat console wall. The better sonic benefits are mostly realized when sitting inside the boat at rest or at a very slow cruise. The moment you are at speed or on plane there is simply too much bass-masking hull and engine noise to preserve any of the finer tonal characteristics. Then it becomes about enough acoustic power to overcome the conditions while staying clean.

I listen to a little bit of everything. Classical rock, metal, newer contemporary stuff, etc etc. I don't care about hearing the bump while underway. Just mostly while anchored. I want to see how having control over the sub with the ws420 EQ works before making any changes.
 
Hello!! nice job bro.. I just bought my Yamaha 242 e series 2016. and definitely I need to upgrade the sound. but the question is. are you using the main screen as a main audio source? so I can use it as a main radio source and them I have to plug with rca cables to the amp??
 
Run the rca cables between the amp and the module behind the co-pilot seat. Don't need to run anything to helm unless you want a separate zone control. Everything still goes through connext.
 
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I added the blue wire to the connector (yes I went the hard way) of the head unit. Then it just jumps from one amp to the next and to the wet sounds equalizer and ends there. I left all the factory wiring intact just in case kind of stuff, plus the tower speakers are still using the factory head units amplification. The tweeters in the tower sound ok so I have no plans to change them. I do have a schematic or really just a wiring point to point of my entire layout if you want I can send it to you.

Can you send your wiring schematic to me please?
 
Run the rca cables between the amp and the module behind the co-pilot seat. Don't need to run anything to helm unless you want a separate zone control. Everything still goes through connext.

Hey, did you notice any hissing or static coming from your Polk amp RCA outputs when the source is paused?

And btw, when you’re doing these upgrades, did you clip or remove the pins for the existing speakers? I just have mine hanging there, but wondering if I shouldnt disable them so they can’t somehow cause issues.
 
Wow, Nice Job. Do you have a wiring diagram?
 
Hey, did you notice any hissing or static coming from your Polk amp RCA outputs when the source is paused?

And btw, when you’re doing these upgrades, did you clip or remove the pins for the existing speakers? I just have mine hanging there, but wondering if I shouldnt disable them so they can’t somehow cause issues.
No I don’t have any hissing from the Polk head unit. I installed the 2 new JL Audio Amos for the system and used a scope meter and tuned all the channels. It sounds perfect at any volume with no distortion.
As for the wires from the old speakers I just left them in the boat but then recently when my system was stolen I upgraded to the JL Audio speakers with the LEDs and used those old speaker wires to power the LEDs so it all worked out perfect in the end. But originally leaving the old speaker wires in place but disconnected caused no issues since they aren’t hooked to the head unit. And I didn’t cut the ends off just left everything intact. Hope this helps with your project and good luck!!!!
 
No I don’t have any hissing from the Polk head unit. I installed the 2 new JL Audio Amos for the system and used a scope meter and tuned all the channels. It sounds perfect at any volume with no distortion.
As for the wires from the old speakers I just left them in the boat but then recently when my system was stolen I upgraded to the JL Audio speakers with the LEDs and used those old speaker wires to power the LEDs so it all worked out perfect in the end. But originally leaving the old speaker wires in place but disconnected caused no issues since they aren’t hooked to the head unit. And I didn’t cut the ends off just left everything intact. Hope this helps with your project and good luck!!!!
Opps type Amos = Amps
 
No I don’t have any hissing from the Polk head unit. I installed the 2 new JL Audio Amos for the system and used a scope meter and tuned all the channels. It sounds perfect at any volume with no distortion.
As for the wires from the old speakers I just left them in the boat but then recently when my system was stolen I upgraded to the JL Audio speakers with the LEDs and used those old speaker wires to power the LEDs so it all worked out perfect in the end. But originally leaving the old speaker wires in place but disconnected caused no issues since they aren’t hooked to the head unit. And I didn’t cut the ends off just left everything intact. Hope this helps with your project and good luck!!!!

"since they aren't hooked to the head unit"
Oh. Did you disconnect the wires from the head unit at the connectors coming off the PA4A amp unit at the helm? I've been trying to figure out which ones to disconnect so that I can ensure I don't have hot wires going thru the hull and terminating to nothing
 
Good job Doug. I know this is an old thread but I hope you can provide information about hooking those amps to the factory audio system.
 
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