Finally finished stereo upgrade on my 2015 242 Limited S

[Emilio22]

breaker and fuse do the same thing. I actually will be installing the breaker like you have.

 

[MattFX4]

@Emilio22 here is pics. Wire runs in to side where the post is that it connects to. You can also see my breaker. Currently it is hanging free, but plan to mount to wall next to battery switches.

 

[Emilio22]

got it. thanks!!!

 

[Bryan L]

Nice install, guys! I was looking at a similar setup as well for my 2016 242 L/S. How did you guys incorporate the factory tower tweets? Did you swap them out or include a set woofers at the helm to balance the system out?

 

[Doug]

I didn't do anything with the tower tweets. I left them attached to the head unit so they still output sound. I ran all new wires from the new speakers to the amps, I didn't use any of the factory wires in my installation. Good Luck with your installation hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else.

 

[Bryan L]

I plan on running wires as well. This is a great site with tons of helpful info on it. The tweets in the tower bother me, mostly because the system is unbalanced without woofers to match at the helm. You guys gave me some great ideas. I like the white backing used to mount the electronics and the circuit breaker as well. I just need to figure out the voltage displays on the connext. Keep up the good work!

 

[MattFX4]

I plan on running wires as well. This is a great site with tons of helpful info on it. The tweets in the tower bother me, mostly because the system is unbalanced without woofers to match at the helm. You guys gave me some great ideas. I like the white backing used to mount the electronics and the circuit breaker as well. I just need to figure out the voltage displays on the connext. Keep up the good work!

Leave the tweeters connected. After adding better/more speakers, subwoofer, and amps the tweeters actually sound good and don't over power the other speakers.

 

[COtoFLsurf]

@Doug, where is your amp board mounted? Looks like storage in front by the HU, but would like to confirm.

@David Analog, I have read a ton on info on this forum about IB vs enclosed subs (thanks to you and the others!). IB seems like the right answer, but when surfing we will have the rear storage areas full of ballast, so will that affect performance of the IB sub?

 

[David Analog]

@David Analog, I have read a ton on info on this forum about IB vs enclosed subs (thanks to you and the others!). IB seems like the right answer, but when surfing we will have the rear storage areas full of ballast, so will that affect performance of the IB sub?

Well, it will depend. A true IB 10" requires about 2.25 cu.ft. displacement to approximate an infinite baffle. So 2.25 cu.ft. to infinite is optimum. If the view (in acoustic terms) of that displacement is relatively UNobstructed then you're good. If the collective view (path) is less than the subwoofer radiating surface area, then the entire/adjoining displacement may not be recognized. Some compromise is acceptable, especially when surfing. A bass level control or simple bass tone control, used within reason, can't resolve the deep bass extension, but can give you a modest bump when surfing.
The moment you're on plane, have hull noise, or engines under load, you will lose bass quality, as some of the bass is masked. However, under those circumstances you can compensate with a little extra quantity. And that will also help when the compartment is full of ballast.

 

[Julian]

the Rev 10's are bigger and therefore, I would hit my head more

I hit my head on the Polks that come on the X, so I'm sure I'd be hitting them more often on a bigger speaker...but you won't not hit them with a smaller speaker....but I did push mine as far as the speaker wires would allow to the outside of the tower....I bump my head less now that I've done that....

 

[Doug]

@Doug, where is your amp board mounted? Looks like storage in front by the HU, but would like to confirm.

@David Analog, I have read a ton on info on this forum about IB vs enclosed subs (thanks to you and the others!). IB seems like the right answer, but when surfing we will have the rear storage areas full of ballast, so will that affect performance of the IB sub?

Yes my amp board is right in from of the head unit, that area where all the steering controls are. I have a rather large board in height but the width is alittle shorts from what I really wanted to do. I was out of country and asked on this forum how large is that opening but they must not be standard because the board I ordered is too narrow. So my board is sitting on the floor and screwed into a horizontal board across the opening. I just used a piece of wood for now but will change it to king board later when I find some time. Actually it worked out perfect, the king board as I said is quite long (height wise) and resting it on the floor with the weight of the 2 amps, flashlight and sub-panel and wiring I didn't think standoffs would hold everything up. And if is need to get behind it its just a few top screws and it all just tilt forward. That area never gets wet so it worked out in the end.
As for the IB sub. I stuff that area with all kinds of junk and the sub sound fine. Like the post from David Analog, he explained this perfect but for what its worth I don't notice much difference in sound from the sub if that area is empty or filled with life jackets, towels, clothes and what ever else the kids throw in there. The sub just adds balance to the system and fills the cockpit while stationary. Underway its mute the ride and engine almost in a way cancel the sub, there is still some thump but not as defined. The tower are the 7.7" JL's ey really take over when the kids are being towed, and the cockpit speaker even at full throttle will drown out any engine noise and its just pure music...ok maybe a little hum of the engine. Im really impressed with the system it came out better then I imagined. But with that you take a pretty good hit in the wallet...but its worth it.

 

[COtoFLsurf]

@Doug, that makes sense, and you install looks really clean since the board hides all the excess cable. Nice job. One more question, how did you tap into the blue wire to turn on the amps? Specifically, that blue wire goes to the wiring connector, but there is not a blue wire coming out the other side of the connector. So, did you just cut/tap the existing blue wire before the connector, or did you go to the trouble to add a blue wire to the other side of the connector?

 

[Doug]

@Doug, that makes sense, and you install looks really clean since the board hides all the excess cable. Nice job. One more question, how did you tap into the blue wire to turn on the amps? Specifically, that blue wire goes to the wiring connector, but there is not a blue wire coming out the other side of the connector. So, did you just cut/tap the existing blue wire before the connector, or did you go to the trouble to add a blue wire to the other side of the connector?

I added the blue wire to the connector (yes I went the hard way) of the head unit. Then it just jumps from one amp to the next and to the wet sounds equalizer and ends there. I left all the factory wiring intact just in case kind of stuff, plus the tower speakers are still using the factory head units amplification. The tweeters in the tower sound ok so I have no plans to change them. I do have a schematic or really just a wiring point to point of my entire layout if you want I can send it to you.

 

[COtoFLsurf]

@Doug, thanks for the offer of schematic, but I do not need it now. Greatly appreciate the info, even though I did things a bit differently it is always helpful to have others' experience serve as a guide. I went with eight Wetsounds XS650 in the boat, six to replace factory Polks and two new mid-cabin speakers, and one pair of Wetsounds Icon 8s on the tower. Sub is a powered Infinity Basslink mounted in the storage area in front of the driver. Amp is an Infinity Kappa Four. I had this same mix of Wetsounds and Infinity in my last boat, which sounded awesome, so basically replicated it in my 242LS.

The amp is connected to the four mid-cabin speakers and two tower speakers. The towers home-run to the amp as the "rear" channels, so I get 125W to each tower speaker at 4 ohms. I ran new wire for the four mid-cabins speakers and connected each pair in parallel as the "front" channels, so at 2 ohm I get 75W to each mid-cabin speaker. Bottom line is the Kappa Four amp is pretty well matched to the specs for the XS650 and Icon 8s in this configuration. The back speakers, front speakers, and tweeters are still on factory cabling. Since the back speakers were originally in series with the factory mid-cabin speakers, I butt-spliced the mid-cabin electrical connections so back speakers now home-run to the head unit.

This setup works perfect for us. The back and front speakers are significantly quieter than the mid-cabins and towers, so the front is the "escape" if someone needs a break, and the back speakers complement the towers nicely when sitting in the back without having a super loud speaker literally right next to you. Also, we live on a canal and our boat is on a lift in our backyard, so I can quickly fade to "front" to keep the tower speakers from blasting the neighbors.

Countdown to Sandbar Sunday in Islamorada !!! ;-)

 

[Doug]

@Doug, thanks for the offer of schematic, but I do not need it now. Greatly appreciate the info, even though I did things a bit differently it is always helpful to have others' experience serve as a guide. I went with eight Wetsounds XS650 in the boat, six to replace factory Polks and two new mid-cabin speakers, and one pair of Wetsounds Icon 8s on the tower. Sub is a powered Infinity Basslink mounted in the storage area in front of the driver. Amp is an Infinity Kappa Four. I had this same mix of Wetsounds and Infinity in my last boat, which sounded awesome, so basically replicated it in my 242LS.

The amp is connected to the four mid-cabin speakers and two tower speakers. The towers home-run to the amp as the "rear" channels, so I get 125W to each tower speaker at 4 ohms. I ran new wire for the four mid-cabins speakers and connected each pair in parallel as the "front" channels, so at 2 ohm I get 75W to each mid-cabin speaker. Bottom line is the Kappa Four amp is pretty well matched to the specs for the XS650 and Icon 8s in this configuration. The back speakers, front speakers, and tweeters are still on factory cabling. Since the back speakers were originally in series with the factory mid-cabin speakers, I butt-spliced the mid-cabin electrical connections so back speakers now home-run to the head unit.

This setup works perfect for us. The back and front speakers are significantly quieter than the mid-cabins and towers, so the front is the "escape" if someone needs a break, and the back speakers complement the towers nicely when sitting in the back without having a super loud speaker literally right next to you. Also, we live on a canal and our boat is on a lift in our backyard, so I can quickly fade to "front" to keep the tower speakers from blasting the neighbors.

Countdown to Sandbar Sunday in Islamorada !!! ;-)

Sounds like you have it all worked out, sound like a perfect system. I was back and forth between JL Audio and Wetsounds I ended up JL for a few reasons but one of the biggest was the look but that's all a personal taste.
So now I have a quick question for you....your sub you said it's mounted in the storage area in front of the driver? Is that by your feet or up in the bow area? If you get a chance post post a pick I'd like to see that. I still have an available channel on my amp I was thinking of adding another sub.
Must be nice in Florida with your long boating seasons....little jealous. Have fun!!!!

 

[COtoFLsurf]

Here are a couple pictures of my sub mounted in the storage area in front of the driver. Fits great in that location.

Year-round boating, YES, that is precisely what brought us to the FL Keys. 83F at the sandbar on Sunday ...

 

[MattFX4]

Here are a couple pictures of my sub mounted in the storage area in front of the driver. Fits great in that location.

Year-round boating, YES, that is precisely what brought us to the FL Keys. 83F at the sandbar on Sunday ...

How does the sub sound with it mounted inside the compartment like that? Does the bass escape? I have toying with the idea of changing out my IB sub with an enclosure mounted sub, and placing it under my rear seat with a vent over the existing IB sub hole.

 

[COtoFLsurf]

@MattFX4, all in the ear of the listener, of course, but it sounds awesome to me. Rocks the boat as you would expect, but also delivers good note/pitch clarity, so really happy with the setup. If I open that hatch there is marginally increased bass right in front of the hatch, but no noticeable increase in rest of the boat. One note: I suspect an IB sub mounted in the back port storage area (like everyone does ...) would outperform my setup, but that entire storage will be full of saltwater surf ballast, so I really wanted to keep my sub in a cleaner and drier location.

 

[MattFX4]

@COtoFLsurf thanks! I am going to wait and see how mine sounds with my equalizer hooked up before I make any changes. It will give me the option to turn the sub volume up independently of the other zones.

 

[David Analog]

How does the sub sound with it mounted inside the compartment like that? Does the bass escape? I have toying with the idea of changing out my IB sub with an enclosure mounted sub, and placing it under my rear seat with a vent over the existing IB sub hole.

Matt, I have done and listened to countless sub systems using several methods including all those discussed here. Some of this depends on acoustics. Some on personal perception and tolerances (what is your reference for good sound...systems made for movies or music, etc.). And some on the material played. If you listen to a lot of contemporary music with synthetic drums and bass lines then you are going to have a different standard of expectations than if you listen to mostly music with studio musicians on real drums and a string bass. As for the acoustics, if you are going to run a small-sealed-enclosure-type subwoofer, the best sounding option is when the sub driver is direct-radiating with both the sub driver and enclosure sandwiched and sealed against the seat console wall. The better sonic benefits are mostly realized when sitting inside the boat at rest or at a very slow cruise. The moment you are at speed or on plane there is simply too much bass-masking hull and engine noise to preserve any of the finer tonal characteristics. Then it becomes about enough acoustic power to overcome the conditions while staying clean.