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This might be a good point to ask how they would like to have the situation handled as you are likely to be filing a claim.
On the 2015 Bimini crossing two 21 footers were swamped near the mouth of Port Everglades. One was taken to a friends house where several oil changes were performed. That boat was saved. The other was taken to a dealer where it sat for a few days before being totalled by the insurance company.
This might be a good point to ask how they would like to have the situation handled as you are likely to be filing a claim.
On the 2015 Bimini crossing two 21 footers were swamped near the mouth of Port Everglades. One was taken to a friends house where several oil changes were performed. That boat was saved. The other was taken to a dealer where it sat for a few days before being totalled by the insurance company.
Pull the plugs one more time and see if they are soaking wet. If there’s fluid connecting the electrode and the ground then it won’t fire, even if it’s gas.
Pull the plugs one more time and see if they are soaking wet. If there’s fluid connecting the electrode and the ground then it won’t fire, even if it’s gas.
Batteries dead from cranking. Charge and revisit tomorrow.....port engine really wants to go but won’t. Stbd not so much. Maybe the plugs are still wet....
but still odd that both of them will crank and not catch.
Batteries dead from cranking. Charge and revisit tomorrow.....port engine really wants to go but won’t. Stbd not so much. Maybe the plugs are still wet....
but still odd that both of them will crank and not catch.
ECU's get wet? Blown fuse anywhere? You verified spark? With the batteries dead just for the sake of it I'd drain the gas best I could and toss in some more and fill it full with some heet.
ECU's get wet? Blown fuse anywhere? You verified spark? With the batteries dead just for the sake of it I'd drain the gas best I could and toss in some more and fill it full with some heet.
FYI called 3 dealers. Nobody can even look at it within 3 days and you’re not in line until you bring it in. Then, all they do at that point is make sure the water is out (by doing oil changes) then if it still won’t start it goes to the back of the line for diagnosis (3-4 weeks)
Take one of the coils with a plug in it and ground it to the engine with the electrode. Have someone try and start it. Or you could get a spark tester. That's the safer way.
I think you need to soak all the electrical connectors with silicon spray I believe you have some electrical issues especially with salt water CRC Heavy Duty Silicone Lubricant, 11 wt oz - Walmart.com I keep a can of this with me when I am at the water
IMO best place to install a secondary bilge pump is in the lowest area of the boat (the true bilge) under the clean out tray. That is where most people install it.
@Julian recently posted an install video on this exact topic. It might be useful to you @toddaltpeter.
Edit - I see you're asking about a high water alarm. Yea I'd put that in the engine compartment.
I am installing it back low in the engine compartment on the back wall. I figure if I put it in the back low, which can get some water in it I don't want a false alarm. But if water is entering the engine compartment I need to know about it. I will put a second bilge in eventually and that will go under the clean out hatch with its own discharge. I am just wore out cutting holes in the boat and want to test out what I have done. Probably in the next month or so.
Also if you are going to install the bilge Alarm, you may as well install the Gas Fume Detector while you are running wires. This was recommended on a thread here so I picked one up.
Everyone knows to pull the plugs if they think they may have water in the motor. This allows the water to be pushed out of the cylinders without damage. But, it doesn’t pull any water into the cylinders that in sitting in the intake system, that happens after the plugs are put back in. To minimize this, put your finger over the spark plug hole while spinning the motor. This will create the vacuum to pull the water into the cylinder, then during the compression stroke it will push your finger out of the way to blow the water out.
The boat was in saltwater. Salt is a good conductor. Make sure the ignition system is clean. Including the plug wires and plugs. Clean well with WD40 or silicone spray.
Also, it’s a good idea to try to start it in the dark. If you see any sparks, You’ve found a problem.
Def wanna get some fogging oil and get it down in the cylinders pretty heavy while it's sitting. Someone mentioned that early on, not sure if you have done that. Also marvel mystery oil is good to put in the oil for the first couple of changes when you get it started.
@FLJetBoater, sorry this has been such a pain. Have you been able to verify you have spark? Old fashioned way is to ground the plug on the engine by holding it with insulated pliers. Haven’t done that in years though. I’m sure there are better ways now.
@FLJetBoater, sorry this has been such a pain. Have you been able to verify you have spark? Old fashioned way is to ground the plug on the engine by holding it with insulated pliers. Haven’t done that in years though. I’m sure there are better ways now.
I did verify spark. I bought an inline spark tester. However still no start.
I had a good conversation with the dealer this morning and they have a whole “de-watering” process they go through and extract all the water. Should be done in a few days, hopefully that’s not too late but i think I have done all I can do. He did say the steps I took would have still helped at least some even if the engines didnt start.
3 days to finish dewatering.
3-4 weeks to fully diagnose cause of water and status of boat/engines
If needed, 6 months approx for new engines
they were actually pleasurable to speak with and explain and expand on things, unlike the dealer that did my mid bearings.