Help me please

[txav8r]

That is a definite loss of ignition signal IMO. If you have good juice, and your port is connected right alongside the starboard, and you have zero corrosion, then you need to look at any other cable connection for the port, switch, and any interlocks, like the lanyard switch or clean out switch. Is it totally dead now, or can you wiggle it and get some tach or lights?

 

[txav8r]

If you can get something, then it has to be in the ignition switch, but remember, every wire connection has two ends, not just one at the switch. Ringing this out would be better, but I doubt you have the meters there to test the length of every circuit in question.

 

[Marvin willis]

Lanyard is the safety switch tgat the cord is connected to correct?

 

[txav8r]

You are definitely dealing with "won't turn over AND won't start", meaning that it is affecting at least ignition, but you won't know if start signal is blocked without ringing it out until you fix the ignition block. It is going to include ignition and probably the source of it.

 

[Marvin willis]

Both ignitions start the starboard motor neither the portside

 

[txav8r]

Yes, that lanyard has a fork that slips between a very tight plunger head and the body of the unit. Separation completes the circuit, and if the lanyard is pulled, it breaks it. It has been known to fail for one but not both engines. If you can get a feeler gauge in there with it, maybe additional separation will confirm it.

 

[txav8r]

Simple, but giggle the throttle handle while trying to start the port. That neutral switch could also be a culprit...

 

[Marvin willis]

For a temp fix could I run a wire from one starter to the other to start it with one ignition

 

[txav8r]

There are a bunch, and I mean a bunch, of safety systems on these boats. And I can't tell you that you can bypass them without affecting something, that is beyond my knowledge of it. But you may be able to. We don't have starter leads. We only have two cables from each battery to each engine. And the other starter wiring is internal but it has it.

 

[txav8r]

I have an '07 MR-1 HO manual, and a '11 1.8L manual, but I don't have an '05. Is it an HO? could be the same and I can send you pages. Actually, look at your conversations...

 

[Marvin willis]

Found another problem. No dash lights

 

[Marvin willis]

Yes it's a ho

 

[txav8r]

Hmm...the right ignition is the master and may control the lights. Do you have depth finder and other accessories? Check the fuse in the battery compartment that goes to the positive battery post. I don't think it has anything to do with them, but check continuity.

 

[txav8r]

did you get the conversation from me, I sent you a key.

 

[txav8r]

It has to do with ignition even if it isn't the switch itself. Going to have to find out where your broken. It could still be the lanyard switch.

 

[txav8r]

Marvin, I have to run. I will try to check back in awhile. Follow the ignition and download what I sent you and look at it. It will help to isolate. Hope to hear that you found it when I return!

 

[jawsf16]

Pull the lanyard switch p,with a pair of vise grips to make sure it is not compressing. Double check connections behind he lanyard switch too..

 

[Marvin willis]

I pulled up on the lanyard. That didn't help. Put a new depth finder in a month ago. It works fine

 

[Marvin willis]

Wires look ok

 

[Marvin willis]

I've never seen a fuse that goes to the battery?