Help my to Cool Alarm is going off

[David Martin]

Ok OK I know its not funny....most posts are about engine over heats and I am complaining about engines running way to cool. Question what thermostats are available to Yamaha....in my 5.7 and 454 BB you can get any temp/flavor you want in a stat. Heck I can't find temp numbers on Yamaha so finding higher thermostats looks to be daunting at best.

I just got my Blackstone oil report(no real surprises)that would damage an engine) but had fuel(gas) in oil and trace amounts for water........Blackstone report stated since no potassium(I boat in saltwater) they called it an anomaly. After calling them(man they know engines and oil) I told them about how cool my engines ran so it would appear that condensation that normally would vape off is present due to low temp.... Also hotter oil would help the fuel build up from the long idle periods.

A typical day for me is idle out/back is 1:30 min for a 2 hr at speed. That's 6 hours at speed and 5 hours at idle per week. Also my plug read is normal at 73 hours(plugs look great) so that eliminates injectors as the fuel problem........it just long idle time. NO YOU CAN SEE why I need to up engine and oil temp.

I'll post oil report on Yamalube 10w40 mineral, Suzuki 10w40 semi Syn, and my used oil simi syth 10w40 Amazon basic and what the additives all the oils had later. No real surprises on any of these oils.

 

[JetBoatingUpstateNY]

what exactly is the problem? i would change the oil and not worry about it

 

[Scottintexas]

have you checked the temps while operating with a YDS or infrared reader to get an idea what the temps are ??

If you've got fuel/water in the oil I'd be more concerned with a head issue,

how often do you check your oil dipstick? every outing, once a year ??


.

 

[josh195]

Ok OK I know its not funny....most posts are about engine over heats and I am complaining about engines running way to cool. Question what thermostats are available to Yamaha....in my 5.7 and 454 BB you can get any temp/flavor you want in a stat. Heck I can't find temp numbers on Yamaha so finding higher thermostats looks to be daunting at best.

I just got my Blackstone oil report(no real surprises)that would damage an engine) but had fuel(gas) in oil and trace amounts for water........Blackstone report stated since no potassium(I boat in saltwater) they called it an anomaly. After calling them(man they know engines and oil) I told them about how cool my engines ran so it would appear that condensation that normally would vape off is present due to low temp.... Also hotter oil would help the fuel build up from the long idle periods.

A typical day for me is idle out/back is 1:30 min for a 2 hr at speed. That's 6 hours at speed and 5 hours at idle per week. Also my plug read is normal at 73 hours(plugs look great) so that eliminates injectors as the fuel problem........it just long idle time. NO YOU CAN SEE why I need to up engine and oil temp.

I'll post oil report on Yamalube 10w40 mineral, Suzuki 10w40 semi Syn, and my used oil simi syth 10w40 Amazon basic and what the additives all the oils had later. No real surprises on any of these oils.

Last time I was truck shopping one of the trucks at a dealer had some whitish oil under the oil cap due to condensation and it seemed to be due to them starting it up and not getting the engine all the way warmed up before they shut it off. So the condensation thing is probably true and Blackstone really does know their oil so no reason to believe anything otherwise.

 

[AZMark]

The exhaust on these always has some residual water, you’ll always have trace amounts of condensation.

 

[David Martin]

Check oil every outing......... I use digital infrared gun,.........I have 12 different temp points on each engine and marked in my service manual for future reference keeping track of change(like blockage in water jacket)..........flush with salt away every outing.

I agree with everything said guys..... I will check to make sure I have thermostats in her(I bought her used with 23hrs on the meter) after the tropical storm gets by us hear in FL. They did say wear metals were below norms/average so the thinning of the oil viscosity was not bad enough cause higher than normal wear. They also point out the oil at 73 hours still has a good amount of additives left but should be changed because of the thinning of viscosity due to fuel.

The exhaust on these always has some residual water, you’ll always have trace amounts of condensation.

Thanks I never thought about the water remaining in the exhaust chamber after shut down......makes since.

 

[AZMark]

Thanks I never thought about the water remaining in the exhaust chamber after shut down......makes since.

I’ve purchased a few old jet skis that have sat for months if not years. Water comes out every time I get them started.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Check oil every outing......... I use digital infrared gun,.........I have 12 different temp points on each engine and marked in my service manual for future reference keeping track of change(like blockage in water jacket)..........flush with salt away every outing.

I agree with everything said guys..... I will check to make sure I have thermostats in her(I bought her used with 23hrs on the meter) after the tropical storm gets by us hear in FL. They did say wear metals were below norms/average so the thinning of the oil viscosity was not bad enough cause higher than normal wear. They also point out the oil at 73 hours still has a good amount of additives left but should be changed because of the thinning of viscosity due to fuel.



Thanks I never thought about the water remaining in the exhaust chamber after shut down......makes since.

You did a great initial post! But you did not include the temps?

When I did look at the T stats, and I can’t remember what mine are at the moment, there was only one choice. I’d be surprised if someone doesn’t make a hotter T stat. But, First thing I thought of when I read your post was that your T stats are not closing all the way, thus not allowing the engines to come up to temp. A suggestion, when you pull the T stats, have a look at the internal anode on the engines.. could be time to change them out as well.

Do you blow the exhausts out after getting the boat out of the water to remove the excess water in the water locks?

The fuel dilution makes sense if the engines are not coming up to temp, the rings are not sealing properly since the engine is too cool. Water jacket temp should be around 185* for proper ring seating.

 

[David Martin]

I have never gotten any temp above 140 anywhere and the 140 is thermostat hot water hose dumping out at the rear of hull. I did just find out that the Yamaha stat is a 140f/60c being sold as stock replacement.......sound like the stat is working as intended. I am surprised at such a low temp on this engine the 2013 1.8L. I can understand a low temp stat on the supercharged 1.8 because the engine would heat soak and loose power.

I going to remove the stats and inspect I would not mind inspecting the water jacket in that area and see if flushing with salt away is doing the job.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I have never gotten any temp above 140 anywhere and the 140 is thermostat hot water hose dumping out at the rear of hull. I did just find out that the Yamaha stat is a 140f/60c being sold as stock replacement.......sound like the stat is working as intended. I am surprised at such a low temp on this engine the 2013 1.8L. I can understand a low temp stat on the supercharged 1.8 because the engine would heat soak and loose power.

I going to remove the stats and inspect I would not mind inspecting the water jacket in that area and see if flushing with salt away is doing the job.

I find the stat temp interesting. By the looks of your temp reads things are operating well. The UOA results made me think I may send off a sample just to benchmark both motors.

The water jacket inspection should also prove enlightening as well.

 

[212s]

I'll post oil report on Yamalube 10w40 mineral, Suzuki 10w40 semi Syn, and my used oil simi syth 10w40 Amazon basic and what the additives all the oils had later. No real surprises on any of these oils.

Hey David, did you ever get the Blackstone reports on the Yamalube oil? Curious to see what's in the oil.

I found one of the Yamalube Synthetic 10w30 for outboards, but nothing for the 4W 10w40 mineral we use in our boats.

 

[David Martin]

Hey David, did you ever get the Blackstone reports on the Yamalube oil? Curious to see what's in the oil.

I found one of the Yamalube Synthetic 10w30 for outboards, but nothing for the 4W 10w40 mineral we use in our boats.

Hear it is its just a average mineral oil at best.......not great but not bad either....like blackstone said it will do its job as intended. As long as the Yamalube meets the SAE and API is a raiting like my 2013 calls for SN or higher. As long as the oil has Zink(anti wear) silicon for anti foam and Magnesium anti corrsion its good to go......................

 

[212s]

Hear it is its just a average mineral oil at best..

Awesome, thanks for posting this! I've been scouring the interwebs looking for a VOA or UOA on this oil. No moly at all, so I'm switching oils.
I just saw your other post too...I don't know how I missed your post last summer.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Hear it is its just a average mineral oil at best.......not great but not bad either....like blackstone said it will do its job as intended. As long as the Yamalube meets the SAE and API is a raiting like my 2013 calls for SN or higher. As long as the oil has Zink(anti wear) silicon for anti foam and Magnesium anti corrsion its good to go......................

Hi Dave,

The three columns in the test results, are they left to right: New Oil, used oil tested, and national oil averages?

 

[212s]

The three columns in the test results, are they left to right: New Oil, used oil tested, and national oil averages?

Date at the top shows when it was done and the results below of the current test, to the right shaded is expected levels based on tests, and then far right averages.