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Truly appreciate your input.Great progress indeed! Good job getting that out.
A couple of notes from my side...
1) Last item you need to worry about right now, but when you reassemble, before you do--you need to re-silicone that intake! Looks like you are missing a lot of gelcoat there... That can't be good.
2) The impeller is impressive. Given how messed up the bearings are, etc., this impeller looks MUCH better than mine did.
3) I am noting some scoring on the shaft farther up toward the splines. Anyone have ideas or concerns about that?
4) No experience with removing the bearings on impellers, but when I was working on cars... Pressing was always preferred--just not usually possible for lack of tools. Therefore, you hammered at it (and then risked messing something up). I wish I could tell you that I thought that the penetrating oil would help.
5) The reason I think that one of my intermediate bearings is blown is when I got to this point and looked down that shaft hole, I could see grease leaking out into the hole (and there was grease on the shaft). I only saw that one on side; not on the other. I don't see that type of thing on yours... Coda: I wound up not fixing mine, just putting it back together and resolving to watch it closely.
Not as helpful as I am sure others will be able to offer, but that is what I got. Keep us updated on the progress!
Thanks again for the input!! Very helpful.Sure. For #1, when I look at your picture, it looks like you are missing gelcoat on the port and starboard sides of the intake--right there where the hull meets the metal. Not sure why--I don't think I have seen anything like that before. It may be an optical illusion (photography trick?), but that looks wrong to me. The intake (from before the grate, up to the impeller) should be smooth--no gaps and no roughness. Otherwise you will get cavitation before the impeller and the impeller will not be able to pull the water as well.
So, when re-assembling, before you put all of that mess back in, get a tube of silicone caulk and fill any gaps and cover any roughness. On the exterior of the grate, cover all of the bolts that attach the grate to the hull. Did that all on mine recently (and mine were not what I thought was bad--a couple of gaps and whatnot) and it made an appreciable difference.
As to your impeller, those burs you can take out with a file. When I pulled mine the first time, there were gouges out of the leading edges and all sorts of mess. If you have wear against the ring, the ring probably is starting to corrode (it corrodes, expands, and impacts the impeller) and should be replaced. Many like to replace with an aftermarket plastic wear ring--it is quieter and does not swell like that. But if you get something caught between the ring and the impeller (stick, wood, etc.), it can damage the ring.
As to the rebuild... This is a lot of a personal preference. I don't even think the $600 is unreasonable (if it includes parts). I like playing with mine and enjoy fixing it (and learning along the way), so I would probably do it myself. Others are not so much a wrench-head type and just want to get back on the water and not mess with it. I think if you bought the whole thing again, it would be much more. And I don't think you need new impellers or probably a shaft. Just some pressing and bearing work. So, if you are up for the adventure and have access to a press (the only thing better than having a press is having a friend with a press), I would try it myself. If not, I would go with the rebuild option.
Thoughts! Worth everything you paid for them...
I should have been more clear, I’m referring to the numbers “stamped“ on the impellers. Need to expand the pasted image from the manual in my post above to clearly see the “stamps” on the impellers in the manual.Oh, @swatski ? Would you mind dropping by for a consult? He knows everything there is to know about impellers. I haven't heard of a swap yet, I don't think, but I suppose anything is possible. I doubt the manual is wrong. Do you have a typo above? Looks like the manual says port is 6P600 and starboard is 6P610, no?
Really appreciated your help on this. Will read more in detail.View attachment 117336
The above is from yamahasportsplaza for a 2004 AR230,
the starboard impeller is listed as 68N....10..
I don't have a 2004 manual so I don't know what the pitch is supposed to be in 2004 vs 2006 boats,
Awesome news - I would stick to OEM specs on pitch for sure.So the conclusion is that I had the
2004 model starboard impeller installed on the port side and
The 2006 port side impeller installed on the starboard side.
Wow!!
I will reinstall the 2006 port side impeller with 18.1 degree pitch on the port side (correct side, correct year with correct pitch).
I will reinstall the 2004 starboard side impeller on the starboard side. I will have 16.3 degree pitch impeller on the starboard side instead of the 15.1 degree pitch impeller (2004 impeller pitch vs 2006 impeller pitch).
Or should I buy a new 2006 starboard side impeller with the correct pitch? How much of a difference does the 1.2 degree pitch make (16.3 vs 15.1)?
Thanks again for the help / research!!
I don't know about pitch, it obviously didn't cause you much issue before, @swatski would probably give you a better opinion,Or should I buy a new 2006 starboard side impeller with the correct pitch? How much of a difference does the 1.2 degree pitch make (16.3 vs 15.1)?
Thanks again for the help / research!!
I think I will do that, buy new impeller with correct pitch.I don't know about pitch, it obviously didn't cause you much issue before, @swatski would probably give you a better opinion,
For $135 I'd buy a new impeller, you're already replacing the bearings why cheap out at this point and risk performance issues or having to eventually replace it, fix it once, the right way and proceed with confidence, at least if you have additional issues you won't be questioning it,
.