Installing Dometic / Waeco CD-030DCW Refrigerator in Yamaha SX230

[veedubtek]

I sure wish you'd quit linking this everywhere, @Bruce . It's getting harder and harder to talk myself out of buying one...

 

[Glassman]

Crap, I clicked on this again.....she was looking over my shoulder.


How much of a drain on the battery she wants to know......see?

 

[Bruce]

Crap, I clicked on this again.....she was looking over my shoulder.


How much of a drain on the battery she wants to know......see?

My initial test showed an average usage of 1 amp based on battery drain over a period of time. That test started by filling the room temperature fridge with room temperature bottled water. So the fridge needed to cool itself and the water.

Sunday I turned it on for this year and filled it with cool drinks from another fridge. It had been stored in our basement garage all winter. The starting temp was likely in the 60s. I left the boat unplugged for more than 24 hours. I checked the voltage gauge before plugging the charger in and it showed a full charge.

So I think the initial test must have had higher usage due to the higher starting temps.

I have two 100 amp hour group 31 batteries. I can run the fridge for four days before the batteries hit 50%.

 

[Geiger41]

Can you tell us how you connected the power ?

 

[Bruce]

Can you tell us how you connected the power ?

Mine is connected directly to the dual battery switch. It is powered by whichever battery is on or by both.

If you have a house and starting battery setup I would connect it to the house battery.

The temperature control doubles as an on off switch. I used it to turn the fridge off over the winter. The fridge also has a low voltage disconnect built in to prevent it damaging the battery.

 

[MikeyL]

Can you tell us how you connected the power ?

I WAS gonna add I think @Bruce used "Wires" ......... but then I'ld be perceived as a SmartAss and we don't need any new rumors flyin' around here, now do we ? !
LOL - Take Care, Mikey Lulejian - Out on beautiful Lake Oconee, GA in 90 degree weather !

 

[Bruce]

I think @Bruce used "Wires"

I did use a pair of wires. Sixteen gauge to be exact. They are soldered and shrink tubed to the factory wiring on the fridge with screw terminals soldered to the other end. The maximum draw is 3 amps and the length of the run is less than 6 feet so I could have used as small as 20 gauge wire.

 

[Kross]

i love this idea. On my "one day" list.

- Kross

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

Its on my list. I am trying to find dimensions of the door lid thickness when closed and how far the drawer sticks out when open. My only available spot on the 212X that I can see is in the driver side console in the walk through area.

 

[Bruce]

P

Its on my list. I am trying to find dimensions of the door lid thickness when closed and how far the drawer sticks out when open. My only available spot on the 212X that I can see is in the driver side console in the walk through area.

Please remind me when I get back to the world of tape measures.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

I also found that they make a slightly smaller unit called the CD-020 for any that are interested. It is a 20 liter drawer vs the 30.

 

[leeatmg]

I wonder if you could also mount one of these in the upper part of the helm compartment on a shelf, facing forward, and attach the seat cushion to the drawer front somehow? If you're going to do it, a secret hidden drink drawer would be a lot of fun.

 

[Nathan_85]

Can you show pictures of the wiring to see how it sets on the boat? Thanks!

 

[Bruce]

Can you show pictures of the wiring to see how it sets on the boat? Thanks!

It is simply a 12 volt positive and negative wire run directly to the battery switch.

The temperature adjustment also turns it on and off and it has a built in low voltage disconnect so I did not add anything complicated of my own.

 

[Nathan_85]

Nice! Thanks bro!

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

@Bruce what gauge wire is running to the fridge? This is one of my must have mods for this summer and I am looking to mount it in the side of the driver console, did some measuring and it will just fit. I will be elevating it some so my folks don't have to bend over as much to get into it. What keeps the door closed? Don't want to cross a wake and have it slide open and I could not tell much from the manufacturers website.

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce what gauge wire is running to the fridge? This is one of my must have mods for this summer and I am looking to mount it in the side of the driver console, did some measuring and it will just fit. I will be elevating it some so my folks don't have to bend over as much to get into it. What keeps the door closed? Don't want to cross a wake and have it slide open and I could not tell much from the manufacturers website.

I used 16 gauge wire which is soldered and shrink tubed to the factory wiring on the fridge with screw terminals soldered to the other end. The maximum draw is 3 amps and the length of the run is less than 6 feet so I could have used as small as 20 gauge wire. Based on the length of your run you may want to use 14 gauge wire but if you have 16 gauge wire on hand it will be fine.

The door has a latch that is released by pulling the handle. It will not open even in very rough waves.

What kind of structure do you have planned to support the elevated fridge? It can get quite heavy when filled.

 

[Englewoodcowboy]

I used 16 gauge wire which is soldered and shrink tubed to the factory wiring on the fridge with screw terminals soldered to the other end. The maximum draw is 3 amps and the length of the run is less than 6 feet so I could have used as small as 20 gauge wire. Based on the length of your run you may want to use 14 gauge wire but if you have 16 gauge wire on hand it will be fine.

The door has a latch that is released by pulling the handle. It will not open even in very rough waves.

What kind of structure do you have planned to support the elevated fridge? It can get quite heavy when filled.

Excellent. I ran a set of 8 gauge battery cables to a distribution block under the console to supply my amps and the future fridge. The run from the compressor to the block will be maybe 18" to allow removal etc. For support, the manual shows 3 holes on each side of the box for mounting and said nothing about supporting it underneath. What I was planning on building was a star board shelf somewhat in the shape of an H that will support it to the floor and of coarse whatever else I can come up with on mounting it. It will be well supported either way. I will trim the channel that the air dam door closes into to clear the drawer, then C notch the door panel so it clear the drawer as well and still allow the air dam to be closed.

 

[Bruce]

The fridge is structurally sound on its own. Mine is simply screwed down to two sets of lumber supports than act as shims to level the uneven floor below it. It weighs 44 pounds empty and probably twice that fully loaded. I imagine that wave impacts will multiply that force by several times.

 

[shane hric]

Excellent. I ran a set of 8 gauge battery cables to a distribution block under the console to supply my amps and the future fridge. The run from the compressor to the block will be maybe 18" to allow removal etc. For support, the manual shows 3 holes on each side of the box for mounting and said nothing about supporting it underneath. What I was planning on building was a star board shelf somewhat in the shape of an H that will support it to the floor and of coarse whatever else I can come up with on mounting it. It will be well supported either way. I will trim the channel that the air dam door closes into to clear the drawer, then C notch the door panel so it clear the drawer as well and still allow the air dam to be closed.

@Englewoodcowboy don't forget to post some pictures of your install too. The head compartment upgrades and this fridge are on my future to do list, so I would be interested to see how yours goes!