Landing strip LED lights on the trailer

[njmr2fan]

@Bruce,
A few things here. I don't think I'd ever pull over a boater for having this on all the time. Blue ringed headlamps YES, this NO.

Im interested in this myself. How is this setup holding up for you? Do you trailer every time you boat? We trailer every boating session, thats why I ask.

I saw your link to Amazon, I'm wondering what else I need to purchase, how do you wire the end of the line to power? Do I need the dimmer, controller that @farrelltravis shows above? Does it come included?

Appreciate the info.

 

[Bruce]

@njmr2fan, two months, two dips into salt water and over 4,000 miles later they are holding up perfectly. We do trailer every time that we boat. We live on a lake and will have a dock someday but for now we launch and retrieve the boat for every outing. If the LEDs come unglued or stop illuminating I will order two more strips for $14 and it will take perhaps 15 minutes to swap them out.

The total cost was $27 and about 30 minutes. The supplies consisted of two of these LED Strips, 12 x 18" outdoor wire ties, less than 10' of 16 gauge dual conductor wire and solder and shrink tube that I already had on hand.

I popped out the front trailer side light out on both sides. On my trailer they are installed in rubber grommets. Then I cut the factory wiring and soldered and shrink tubed my oversized 16 gauge wires into the factory wiring splicing the factory wiring back together at this point. Marine grade splice connectors could be used as an alternative. You can substitute any 20 gauge or heavier two conductor wire that you may have laying around. This end is hidden so if you are not comfortable soldering they would work just as well.

The LED strips have a short wire leader. I soldered and shrink tubed my 16 gauge wire to this leader. I used a third larger and longer piece of shrink tubing to cover the area where the two wires were split on one side. If it I were doing it again I would use this outer shrink tubing on both sides. Snap style connectors are available to make the connection to the LED strips. some have leads already attached. I prefer the solid and more water tight connection provided by soldering and shrink tubing.

If you do not have tools for soldering and shrink tubing then this would be a decent start for $30 that will allow you to do a wide variety of electrical projects on your boat and make you a hero when you repair jewelry;
30 / 130 watt soldering gun - use 30 watts for this project and other small projects, 130 watts would be reserved for larger wires.
.35 ounces of silver solder - silver is stronger and a better conductor, I believe this is lead free.
150 pieces of shrink tubing - it shrinks to half its original size. You can use a hair dryer, lighter or match to shrink it.

The LED lights are diodes so power only flows in one direction. You will want to verify that the wires are connected with the correct polarity before soldering. You also want to be very careful not to touch the positive to the trailer frame or like you me you will be looking for the fuse that needs to be changed.

You can see the 16 gauge wire coming out of the front light grommet and where both sides connect to the LED strip in this picture.

 

[d_coyne1984]

Awesome Bruce!

I'd be happy if my left rear light would just stay lit!

I noticed it was out last year and I bought a replacement capsule....went to install it and the light was working fine. So I threw the capsule back in my tote.

This past weekend I noticed it was out again. I wish I had the replacement with me so I could wave it at the trailer and the light would magically come one!

I have had the same issue with lights burning out. I think it might have somethibg to do with the hot bulb hitting the cold water. I've started unplugging mine now and haven't had any issues.

 

[txav8r]

I didn't read back over the thread @Bruce . But I had some thoughts about switching and not having them active the entire time the trailer lights are active. I also had some thoughts about securing the wiring inside the trailer and less chance of damage. I know that sometimes I install things in a less permanent manner to prove viability and then don't want to go to the trouble to change it. But hey, its the off season and often that is when I do such things. The main thing is those lights are just plain blinding. Especially on a rainy night with so many reflective surfaces. If nothing more than a plug to remove power to them. I get the inconvenience of getting out of the truck and plugging them in or out and know that would almost eliminate their use. But LED's are switched and even color changing via the controller. So I see it as getting a controller that is waterproof, that you can still use. Sounds like a fun project and a challenge! I know it is done, @Earmark Marine has done many. One guy that had his trailer lit like an approach light system was our FAA principal inspector. He had a nice wake boat for him and his family, and almost every available mod you could think of was on that boat/trailer. I liked the lights that were on it. They were actually on the rails out of the way of the boat but illuminating the alignment and the rails perfectly.

 

[bronze_10]

What about running the power for those lights into the wire harness and attach it to the back up light prong in the plug? That's what I was thinking of doing once I sort out my trailer situation... I just don't like having the truck in reverse while loading the boat... maybe an internal switch inside the truck that runs through the plug..

 

[Bruce]

@txav8r, I am very happy with the lights and the installation.

I could have drilled holes and snaked a few feet of wire inside of the trailer but the 15' of light strip on each side would still be exposed to possible damage. I decided against drilling holes primarily because I did not want to create potential entry points for salt water. You may want to drill the holes and silicone the wires into them.

As for brightness these LEDs could be a problem if they faced outward. Mine are facing upward so they do not point at other vehicles. They do illuminate the sides of the boat. Initially I planned to see how they worked then consider a switching system. I like the added safety of making the boat more visible so I decided to leave them on all the time.

The one change that I am considering is that I may add similar lighting facing down. I often tow on narrow nonilluminated two lane roads. In those conditions I can only see the trailer position when it is illuminated by a passing drivers headlights. It would be really nice to be able to see the trailer position relative to the stripes on the road.

This installation is for functionality but if you wanted it for show you could easily use RGB LEDs and an inexpensive controller with a RF remote. I did something similar with my cup holders https://jetboaters.net/threads/musi...ders-for-60-less-than-10-per-cup-holder.7366/

 

[Bruce]

@bronze_10, are you using the factory 4 pin connector or have you converted to a 7 pin?

One of the 7 pins is accessory power. It is an always on 12v positive supply. If I wanted to switch the lights on and off and wanted to run back to the connector for power I would use that accessory power and install a switch inline. Perhaps mount the switch on the tongue of the trailer.

 

[bronze_10]

@Bruce I use the 7 pin.... I ordered the lights from your original post and have them sitting in my tool box... I didn't want to work on it yet due to replacing the trailer with an aluminum one in the spring.

 

[Bruce]

@Bruce I use the 7 pin.... I ordered the lights from your original post and have them sitting in my tool box... I didn't want to work on it yet due to replacing the trailer with an aluminum one in the spring.

I would suggest wiring them to the running light circuit first. If you do not like them on all the time then move the to the accessory power circuit with a switch.

 

[subysti]

Here are some animated multicolor trailer landing lights. Can also be purchased from ledpowersports.

http://www.xkglow.com/Ultra_Bright_15_Color_144_LED_Remote_Control_p/xk074009.htm

 

[Bill D]

That's what I installed on my trailer... I absolutely love them.

https://jetboaters.net/posts/111630/

 

[Greg M]

Sorry i didnt post this, I meant to right after you first posted it Bruce, been pretty busy last few months! Anywho, I added LED lights to the inside of all my stainless cup holders on the 242, and I am using this to control it......
http://www.amazon.com/Lerway-Controller-Wireless-Control-R106/dp/B00AHU2U7O/ref=pd_sim_267_49?ie=UTF8&dpID=41J1o0HiEEL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=1PGT97S6057GGHMCQGZ5

imo, get some tubing, put this inside it, solder and heat shrink to your leds, and rtv seal the end, keep the remote in the truck, presto, driver controlled landing lights... you can adjust intensity, strobe, and its VERY cheap. I grabbed 3 just in case one goes toes up, but after an entire summer, working perfectly

 

[Bruce]

Good find @Greg M, that is exactly what several members have asked for. You can easily install that controller inside the trailer frame. I would use one on each side.

 

[Greg M]

The nice part about that controller (besides omg cheap) is that it work with 5v-24v power source but take note of the 1 star reviews... they are either a DOA part OR if people are running high amp/voltage thru them they heat up! For our 5v led needs, mine has never gotten hotter than the ambient... and I got 3 just in case lol

just a side note though... if you use this controller on your boat and the trailer... its a one remote on one frequency for all receivers lol You might be turning things off and on in both places if you dont pay attention to the range lol

 

[shane hric]

We often boat until after dark and recover the boat at dark ramps.

We added waterproof LED strip lighting to the frame rails of the trailer so that alignment of the trailer would be visible through the water. They work great and improve visibility on the highway as well.

Although I am curious how our LE members feel about the extra lights on the trailer. I believe this is legal. If not I will add switches to turn them on at the ramp.

Total cost was $27 and about 30 minutes. The supplies consisted of two of these LED Strips, 12 x 18" outdoor wire ties, less than 10' of 16 gauge dual conductor wire and solder and shrink tube that I already had on hand.

@Rana applied the light strips to frame rails starting at the back. I pulled out the front running lights and soldered and shrink tubed 16 gauge wire to the factory wiring. Then I soldered and shrink tubed my 16 gauge wires to the LED strips. And finally we put 6 wire ties around each LED strip and wire. We did the same on both sides.

View attachment 23951 View attachment 23952 View attachment 23953

These do look pretty cool! There are a few variations from state to state on LED lighting and the laws while on the road. As a general rule, No Red and Blue combinations (They are considered emergency vehicle colors) and absolutely no flashing of Red or Blue in any form. No Green flashing because it is considered volunteer emergency service (such as EMT or Fire Fighter). A solid Amber color will be fine because it signifies running lights.

 

[shane hric]

So would you pull me over for having Amber clearance lights running 15' of the length of the trailer?

Absolutely not, but you may find a local city ordinance against LED lighting, but as a state law...You're Good!

 

[d_coyne1984]

Installed my lights this weekend. Thanks again for the great idea! I can't wait to see them out at night.

 

[David D]

I did mine a couple weeks ago. I'll try to get pics up soon. Here's a summary of my work.

• Replaced the flat-5 wire connector with a round 7-pin. This gave me a hot wire and a truck-based ground. I didn't want to tap into the existing trailer lights - just a preference.
• Put a double-throw toggle switch on the front bar of the trailer. When the switch is on one side, the power flows to the lights. When on the other side, power is directed through an Attwood water sensing switch at the rear of the trailer. Of course, Off is in the middle.
• I ran power from the 7-pin to the switch, then power out of the switch to the rear of the trailer. One passed through the Attwood switch; the other connects to the output side of the Attwood. From there, the + wire went to each of the two LED strips.
• I ran a ground wire from the 7-pin to the back of the trailer, then to the LED strips and the Attwood switch
• I installed my white LEDs (waterproof) on the top of the trailer frame using the adhesive on the strips .. and used @Bruce 's idea to secure them with wire ties, just in case. Since my lights are white, I had to set this up so they turned off while traveling. They turn off automatically after pulling out of the water (takes about a minute or two) -- or I can flip the toggle switch on the trailer.

A couple notes:

• the LED strips I got don't make turns very well ... but since my trailer is short, I just cut the strip in half and ran from the rear of the trailer until it begins to curve at the front. For me, that was a perfect length. It also made wiring easy because the strips were already wired at both ends.
• I leave the switch in the "water sensing" mode -- and everyone at the launch ramp thinks it's the coolest thing ever --- and it helps a lot loading the boat onto the trailer in the evening.
• Your truck may be different, but the power to my brake lights and the 7-pin drops when the truck's ignition is off (weird - it's British). So I don't have to worry about power consumption when parked.

 

[David D]

I'll try to get pics up soon.

Found one picture ... please excuse the dirt!

 

[bronze_10]

Here is my @Bruce tribute. ..