Lectrotab Trim Tabs

[Stevenpigsooie]

Here’s the info from lectrotab.

 

[Stevenpigsooie]

I like the auto level control fine but use it in manual mode 95% of the time. I’d buy the MLC if I was doing it over.

 

[swatski]

This is what you need (found my invoice!) - this is the exact set that I have on my boat, and what @FloJet put on except he went full AUTO - which sounds like may be the way to go.
This set fits your hull exactly. It has the tabs flared up, which I believe is the way to go.
Here is the install thread, it is a bit long...
https://jetboaters.net/threads/trim-tabs-options-wake-surfing-and-cruising.12031/page-2

I can't tell they will give you the exact same price, but most likely.
Nicest people, Dan or Claiborne of Lectrotabs. They also respond to phone calls (I can find the number if you need it, let me know).
cjackson@lectrotab.com
dan@lectrotab.com

The MLC-1 is kind of a semi-auto. I like it a lot. Use the tabs essentially every time I go out. Wouldn't be without them again. Probably the best mod I have right now, and I am choosing my words carefully, lol.

Hope this helps!

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[cwood]

Thanks for all the info provided. A few more questions:

• Is the mounting hardware included? I'm assuming not, based upon what I've read here. If not, does anyone have a list of hardware used?
• Can one of you guys provide a picture of where you ran the wire through the transom?
• How much time should I allocate for the install? I'm mechanically inclined, but admittedly a bit nervous about drilling this many holes in the boat.
• Any "warnings" before I take on this project?

 

[swatski]

I will post the install details w/pics, but just in short - yes I used screws.

I agonized over what to use. Ended up with:

• self-tapping round head SS #12 1 1/4" (for the top actuator mount)
• pre-drilled w/ 11/64 drill bit (through hull, about 1/2")
• w/countersink (just to chamfer gelcoat, very slight, shallow, wide angle)
• bedded with 3M 5200 (regular)

I considered using the "epoxy-plug" technique (drilling a larger hole for an epoxy plug and redrilling to the screw size), but with those FRP hulls I'm not sure that is the best way to go. I ended up drilling small pilot holes and, to my surprise, discovered there was wood inside -- no idea the exact thickness but I would guesstimate the thickness to be about 1/2" (see below).

The transom built is quite different between model years, @Bruce install used the embedded wood enforcement for the transom U-bolts (left), which inside the transom look identical to my 2012 190 (on the right):
Bruce's (left) My 2012 190 (right)
View attachment 51028View attachment 51029
@Bill D had his U-bolts enforced in the 2010-2015 24 hull, I wish the new hull afforded similar access:

The new (2015+ 240) hulls are quite different. There is sound-deadening material stuffed up in the narrow space in the swim deck, and the access is obstructed by water boxes. I could take those out, of course, but it is a major PIA/project. I could reach the U-bolt (kind of) in the corner of the hull but could not reach the space directly above where the top actuator mounts are installed - roughly 8-9" inside of the U-bolts/tie-downs.
Here is the best pic I could take with my arm stuck under the transom, note the strbd U-bolt in the far corner under the deck:
View attachment 51030

The install went well, I was able to torque those screws real tight, have a pretty good feeling about it. The key, I think, is the exact hole sizing. In my case - with #12 SS screws (from Menards, self-tapping, sheet metal, full thread) - the best fit was w/ 11/64 drill bit -- which performed best in scrap fiberglass panels I used for testing the fit. Screws from different sources will fit a bit different so I would always test that.

--

 

[nawlinstornado]

Despite my initial assertion that I would not do any performance mods to the boat until I had at least 50 hours on the water..... I'm ordering my Lectrotabs today. The 30 minutes I spent on Lake Erie were pretty rough, and any help in these types of conditions is welcome. Lake Pontchartrain can get a bit choppy and I want to be able to cross the lake comfortably. Already spoke with Russ yesterday and he's working up an invoice now. So, yeah... That happened.

 

[Mohamed Z Sherif]

Despite my initial assertion that I would not do any performance mods to the boat until I had at least 50 hours on the water..... I'm ordering my Lectrotabs today. The 30 minutes I spent on Lake Erie were pretty rough, and any help in these types of conditions is welcome. Lake Pontchartrain can get a bit choppy and I want to be able to cross the lake comfortably. Already spoke with Russ yesterday and he's working up an invoice now. So, yeah... That happened.

You won’t regret It.
I use mine every time i go out.
The automatic setting is awesome and on point

 

[nawlinstornado]

You won’t regret It.
I use mine every time i go out.
The automatic setting is awesome and on point

Based on your posts (and a few others'), I went with the ALC setup. Looking forward to seeing the difference!

 

[Mohamed Z Sherif]

Based on your posts (and a few others'), I went with the ALC setup. Looking forward to seeing the difference!

Good choice.
Keep us posted

 

[Bogus]

@2nazt, in short the tabs are awesome, my next boat will have them as will each boat after that.

I am not convinced of the value of the ACS for our boats. Next time I would go with something like the Oval LED Control. I do think the ACS would be useful for a larger boat that was rocking side to side.

We have made six Bimini crossings with the tabs. In 2014 and 2016 we found that they made our ride much smoother. For example this year I was at the back of the group when we approached Port Everglades and found that the waves were picking up as usual. I wanted to catch up and accelerated to around 30 as the rest of the group was slowing closer to 20. Around 25 we started to feel painful impacts. I adjusted trim from 50% to 75%. At 75% I could go 30 without any painful impacts. As a tradeoff, pushing the bow down makes spray over the bow more likely. Several in our group applauded as we made a big splash. Enough to soak us to our underwear but not enough to accumulate in the boat.

@justason noticed how much smoother my boat was riding in 2014, I am sure @latitudeadjuster noticed as he saw me making a splash this year.

Some accuse me of cheating when I make the crossing with trim tabs. Sometimes I even turn them off to remember what everyone else is feeling.

Hello,
I have yamaha 242x e boat. How Do you think, If I full fill the ballast bag, one of three bags (the one which is near to the Bow and in the middle), Will it push down the Bow and make the way smoother.

 

[Mohamed Z Sherif]

Hello,
I have yamaha 242x e boat. How Do you think, If I full fill the ballast bag, one of three bags (the one which is near to the Bow and in the middle), Will it push down the Bow and make the way smoother.

That won’t push the bow down. That would sink the stern.
the tabs on my 242xe with the ACS Worked great.
my crew was moving around and the boat stayed level. 100% I’ll buy them again

 

[Bogus]

That won’t push the bow down. That would sink the stern.
the tabs on my 242xe with the ACS Worked great.
my crew was moving around and the boat stayed level. 100% I’ll buy them again

There are 3 ballast bags. Two of them are at the stern and one is at the Bow. So Why Do you think the one which is at the Bow Will not push the Bow down? Possible with little sinking the stern, but more effecting the Bow?

 

[Mohamed Z Sherif]

Bec

There are 3 ballast bags. Two of them are at the stern and one is at the Bow. So Why Do you think the one which is at the Bow Will not push the Bow down? Possible with little sinking the stern, but more effecting the Bow?

Because it’s not at the bow.
it’s in the middle of the boat. it won’t work like the tab and all the extra weight you’ll be wasting fuel.

 

[Bruce]

@Bogus, using ballast to lower your bow decreases the height of the bow above the waves in a not easily changed manner. This could work in moderate water but also could be a recipe for stuffing the bow into a wave and swamping the boat.

I prefer to keep the weight in the back and be able to rapidly adjust attitude through trim and throttle.

 

[Mohamed Z Sherif]

There are 3 ballast bags. Two of them are at the stern and one is at the Bow. So Why Do you think the one which is at the Bow Will not push the Bow down? Possible with little sinking the stern, but more effecting the Bow?

Also with the shift of the weight It would make the ride less stable i think.

 

[Brian Millette]

I did use short actuators and the manual leveling control. Yea the tabs sound big but that's only 18 sq inches more than a 12 x 12 and it is a tight installation. I will have pics after I go back this weekend. I'm in Connecticut and the boat (and my motorhome) are in a buddy's heated garage (which I would kill to have).

Just an update. Haven't gotten good pics but my wife LOVES this mod. Me too! Only used in chop and 1 foot waves or more but the ride is tons better. In the top 3 for mods as far as I'm concerned

 

[gthh]

need some install advice. prepping for the install. 5200 the drilled screws holes and not the hinged mounting plate to the hull?

 

[zipper]

need some install advice. prepping for the install. 5200 the drilled screws holes and not the hinged mounting plate to the hull?

I used the 5200 as an adhesive as well as a sealant. I sealed the holes as well as adhering the hinge to the HDPE shim I used and then that to the hull. I did not want them coming off with me using a spacer to bring the tab more flush with the bottom of the hull at the step. I never expect I will need to replace them, knock on wood. If you used regular 5200 it is not too late to add some to the hinge, I know it has not tacked up yet. Debond will help with clean-up if necessary. In the picture below you can see it everywhere, it ran into the hinge pins but I kept working it loose for 7 days until it set up.

 

[gthh]

I used the 5200 as an adhesive as well as a sealant. I sealed the holes as well as adhering the hinge to the HDPE shim I used and then that to the hull. I did not want them coming off with me using a spacer to bring the tab more flush with the bottom of the hull at the step. I never expect I will need to replace them, knock on wood. If you used regular 5200 it is not too late to add some to the hinge, I know it has not tacked up yet. Debond will help with clean-up if necessary. In the picture below you can see it everywhere, it ran into the hinge pins but I kept working it loose for 7 days until it set up.

View attachment 114206

Thanks for the Great advice. I feel uncomfortable about "permanently" bonding the tabs to the hull but sometimes you overthink the simple.

 

[HughSethner]

Hi Jetboaters,
Semi Noob here. I just discovered this group buy and want to get in on it. But I have a few questions. I have a Wake Wedge mounted on the left side of my hull on my 2017 242X. (My boat is still in storage so I can’t go look at it.) My primary question is will these the top left side trim tab actuations install without conflict with the wake gate operation? It looks like the left side might be close to being in conflict. And if so might I move the top mount location so they don’t conflict? Thanks in advance for your help. See the pics below for perspective.