Lectrotab Trim Tabs

[gmtech16450yz]

Ok I had 3 days on the water to play around with the new tabs!

I'm happy with them. The auto mode works exactly as you would expect/want. When you start out from a stop, auto mode turns on at around 8 or 10mph. As you start to plow, the tabs will lower automatically and the bow will drop. Instead of not having the ability to go cruise between 10-20 mph, I can now run at any speeds in that area without getting up on or dropping off of plane. My boat would get up on plane at around 12-15 mph before, and once it was on plane the lowest planing speed would be around 18-20 mph.

Once up on plane, the tabs automatically raise back up. They won't lower at higher speeds unless you manually make them lower. You still get the list corrections, but they're very unobtrusive unless you have 6 people on one side of the boat. So basically you can keep it in auto mode and it doesn't do anything "bad".

The size I used are 12"x 12". They are VERY strong. If I'm running at 50mph and fully lower them, the speed will drop to 35mph. Move them back up and it feels like you just hit the nos. lol. Going 50mph and deploying one side up and one down will make the boat turn almost as sharp as the steering wheel itself. You can turn effectively with the tabs and not even touch the steering wheel. Trying to go straight with one tab down is pretty hard and the boat will list to the side heavily.

There is one difference in having the tabs that I don't think has been mentioned or realized. When I was figuring out where to place the tabs and at what angles I wanted them, I realized that even when fully retracted (up), they will have an effect on the boat's attitude. The instructions want you to basically put the tabs flat with the bottom of the hull. That obviously makes sense and would be how you'd most likely want to do it. Actually that's not entirely correct, they say to have the tabs slightly above the bottom, but only like 1/4" or so if I remember right. Anyway, even if the tabs were a full INCH above the bottom of the hull, they'd have an effect on the boat. The hull of the boat isn't perfectly flat in the water ever, there's always an angle between the bottom of the hull and the water. So obviously anything you do to extend the surface of the hull, even if it's at a higher angle upwards, it's going to be in the water and effecting the attitude of the boat. That's the whole point of ride plates of course.

So the point of all that is this... just putting the tabs on will result in some amount of bow lowering, even if they're at or above the bottom of the hull. In MY experience with MY boat, that's a good thing. My wife actually noticed the difference in ride when we were going through some really choppy water. The funny thing was that when she said the ride was smoother, the tabs were UP! She was right, the ride IS smoother even with the tabs fully up.

The downside could be speed though. My particular speed didn't change a bit, but I also did another mod at the same time I did the tabs that raised my WOT rpm's a little over 100 rpm on each engine. (Another thread for that soon. lol.) If there's a speed cost, it's not much and it's WELL worth the increase in ride quality.

So that's my report. haha. I'm VERY happy with the mod. The install is solid, the operation of the auto controller works perfectly and the tabs DO make a big difference. If I had one request for the guys at Lectrotab, it would be to build a kit that combines a steering wheel position sensor so that you can use the tabs for additional steering power. If the tabs moved quickly enough and moved with the movement of the steering, the turning G forces you could get in one of these boats would be insane! It's even possible they could do it with software and use the gyro and gps that's already in the auto controllers. It already knows when you're turning, a few more lines of code and it could be moving the tabs to aid that perceived turn. The actuators would have to be faster though.

Bottom line, as many of you guys have already said... The tabs are a REALLY GOOD MOD and Lectrotab has the kits that work and the customer service that's above and beyond excellent.

 

[Mainah]

The auto controller is great at correcting list but not for choppy water when when calibrated to planed out level. When calibrated with 4 people in the bow and while on plane it does engage to lower the bow a bit more. This works for me as I live on a large lake that is choppy 90 percent of the time I go out with exception of a few coves that stay calm nearly all the time. I like the auto controller but think the manual one is just as good for most folks use cases. Two bars worth deployed by the auto setting has become my normal running mode given where I boat.

I intentionally installed my tabs a good deal past level retracted so they would be further up in hopes not to impact the surf wave too much. Three led bars engaged is about all I ever need in wavy/choppy water with 4 bars being what is needed for very big waves and chop but will drag down speed a good bit. I tires out 5 bars (fully deployed) but don’t think I will ever go that far again.

 

[swatski]

There is one difference in having the tabs that I don't think has been mentioned or realized. When I was figuring out where to place the tabs and at what angles I wanted them, I realized that even when fully retracted (up), they will have an effect on the boat's attitude.

Not true... I don't remember exactly right now, would need to look it up, but the standard is to have the tabs mounted 1/4" or so above the bottom of the hull (like you did?) and then raise/double that at 9" chord or so. Mine are up more, as I DID NOT want them dragging when fully retracted.
At planning speeds these boats ride on "ride plates". Yeah, hence the name, lol. The tabs, if mounted with specs I posted and equipped with Lectro short actuators/rods run out of the water at those speeds, completely.
Here is a pic (not mine) of the ride plates in action


My tabs - not the best pics - but fully retracted are angled up enough to stay out of the water, there is no drag, by design. Hence short actuators/rods and placement of the attachment sites - on both tabs and transom.




EDIT: It is true the tabs increase the surface of the bottom of the hull, and will smooth a ride in chop even when fully retracted - there is just more cushioning on "re-entry".

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[gmtech16450yz]

Take a picture behind your boat at speed and I think you'll see what I mean. Look at that first picture about 12 inches behind the transom. That water is at more than a 1/2" above the level of the hull. Sure, yours at only 9 inches will have less effect, but also work differently when deployed. The tabs would have to be pretty high to not touch the water in MOST high speed situations. They absolutely will be WAY down in the water when below 20 or so mph. You have to be going at least 40mph to get the water coming off the ride plate to be flat for any distance. Take a video or pic. I could be wrong, but I literally hung off the back of my boat at speed this weekend and saw it with my own eyes.

 

[swatski]

Take a picture behind your boat at speed and I think you'll see what I mean. Look at that first picture about 12 inches behind the transom. That water is at more than a 1/2" above the level of the hull. Sure, yours at only 9 inches will have less effect, but also work differently when deployed. The tabs would have to be pretty high to not touch the water in MOST high speed situations. They absolutely will be WAY down in the water when below 20 or so mph. You have to be going at least 40mph to get the water coming off the ride plate to be flat for any distance. Take a video or pic. I could be wrong, but I literally hung off the back of my boat at speed this weekend and saw it with my own eyes.

Yeah, I'll take another look for sure, I have almost fallen off a couple of times already... lol.
But I'm quite positive I'm not dragging my tabs. Like you said, mine where designed with short-ish chord and actuators with the blade attachment closest to the transom, w/ the rod working in an almost horizontal plane... But it worked well, and I was surprised I did not have any damage even after some very rough water cruising and wave jumping, like Bimini 2017.
I'll need to confirm when I get to the boat next time, but I noticed how, with time, water flow etches a line/area on the Cobra fins and AK-rudder where they are submerged - presumably at 25-26mph where I spend most of my boating hours - so I can maybe compare that, too.

But here is the real question:
What's that mod for "100RPM extra"??????? Yes, I'm dying to know and hope it does not involve NOS, ice methanol baths, or large outside funnel CAIs!!!

EDIT: I found one recent pic. I don"t see any line of etching, maybe the rudder is a little washed out, so I don"t know what the heck I was thinking... imagining stuff, lol. Sorry.
I guess I will need to lean back there at speed...


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[Speedling]

I see most of you guys have 24' boats. I am wondering on the 21 like mine if it would cause issues stuffing the bow. With the upside down shovel we drive, and lower fretboard I would worry as we already don't count it a successful trip unless we get the kids wet up front. We don't shy away from too much rougher water if it means 90% of the day is nice.
These tabs sound great.
I wonder if the 12" long not even deployed would in essence, give the boat a longer ride plate/hull?
Or would the 9" be more than enough because it just points nose down?

 

[gmtech16450yz]

I see most of you guys have 24' boats. I am wondering on the 21 like mine if it would cause issues stuffing the bow. With the upside down shovel we drive, and lower fretboard I would worry as we already don't count it a successful trip unless we get the kids wet up front. We don't shy away from too much rougher water if it means 90% of the day is nice.
These tabs sound great.
I wonder if the 12" long not even deployed would in essence, give the boat a longer ride plate/hull?
Or would the 9" be more than enough because it just points nose down?

Mine is a 21". Your thinking on the 12" not even deployed being a little like having a longer hull or ride plate is exactly what I experienced on my 212. Mine are 12"x12"'s. Yeah I can get the bow pretty low when fully deployed, but I'd always prefer more control or "power" than less. My wife said she felt the boat was smoother in rough water and that was when they were all the way up! And she's got those two things on her chest that really let her and other women know when it's a rough ride!

 

[Mohamed Z Sherif]

Ya very nice. I should have powder coated mine too. Geez why did I not do that. Looks great.

what size taps do you have? im looking to purchase a kit for my 18 242x and i believe our hulls are the same.

 

[swatski]

what size taps do you have? im looking to purchase a kit for my 18 242x and i believe our hulls are the same.

Mine are 16"x9" and about the perfect fit. I would not want/need anything larger.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/trim-tabs-options-wake-surfing-and-cruising.12031/page-4

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[Mohamed Z Sherif]

After reading and going back and forth i decided to call Russ and Lectrotab and he was great help.
After almost 2 weeks my Christmas present came early.
Can’t wait to get her out of storage to install the lights and tabs

 

[Brian Millette]

I know I'm late to the game, but after reading all your posts, I decided to purchase a kit for my 2017 sx210. Installing now and called Lectrotab to ask why hinge mounting screws were 1 1/2" long when the transom is only 3/8 to 1/2' thick where the hinges are mounted. He seemed concerned that that was not very thick and that I should see if anyone on this board could comment on on thick the mounting point for the hinge was on other installs and if anyone has had problems. I would appreciate those comments. Thanks.
Brian

 

[swatski]

I know I'm late to the game, but after reading all your posts, I decided to purchase a kit for my 2017 sx210. Installing now and called Lectrotab to ask why hinge mounting screws were 1 1/2" long when the transom is only 3/8 to 1/2' thick where the hinges are mounted. He seemed concerned that that was not very thick and that I should see if anyone on this board could comment on on thick the mounting point for the hinge was on other installs and if anyone has had problems. I would appreciate those comments. Thanks.
Brian

The FRP shell is not very thick at all, but it is very strong. The key is to drill holes that are exactly the right size. It is not trivial as most guides go by wood/plywood and that will lead to chipping and spider cracks even if you chamfer. I used scrap pieces/cutouts of FRP from a speaker install project. I would also embed the screws in 3M 5200.

Edit - if you’re really paranoid, like me LOL, you can always practice on plywood and once you are close can do final test in some inconspicuous place like inside in the storage compartment or somewhere else in the boat to get the confirmation that you are not over or under drilling and you get the snug fit for the screws.

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[zipper]

Different boat, different hull. The instructions that came with mine spec'd, if I remember correctly, #14 x 1 1/4" panheads. I used 1 1/2" long due to the piece of 1/4" HDPE I used to space the trim tab away from the hull and give me a little more retraction angle upward. 5200 assures they won't come off. Here is some info posted earlier on drilling gelcoat/fiberglass. https://jetboaters.net/threads/cutting-hole-in-boat.20505/post-349855

 

[Brian Millette]

The FRP shell is not very thick at all, but it is very strong. The key is to drill holes that are exactly the right size. It is not trivial as most guides go by wood/plywood and that will lead to chipping and spider cracks even if you chamfer. I used scrap pieces/cutouts of FRP from a speaker install project. I would also embed the screws in 3M 5200.

Edit - if you’re really paranoid, like me LOL, you can always practice on plywood and once you are close can do final test in some inconspicuous place like inside in the storage compartment or somewhere else in the boat to get the confirmation that you are not over or under drilling and you get the snug fit for the screws.

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Thanks for the help. I had seen your earlier post and did have a piece of FRP to practice on and I'm sure I have it right. I feel better about it and will continue. I also plan to run a couple of beads of 3200 under the length of the hinge to bond it to the transom as well.
Thanks again.
Brian

 

[Brian Millette]

Different boat, different hull. The instructions that came with mine spec'd, if I remember correctly, #12 x 1 1/4" panheads. I used 1 1/2" long due to the piece of 1/4" HDPE I used to space the trim tab away from the hull and give me a little more retraction angle upward. 5200 assures they won't come off.View attachment 87190 Here is some info posted earlier on drilling gelcoat/fiberglass. https://jetboaters.net/threads/cutting-hole-in-boat.20505/post-349855

Hi;
I don't have the step in my hull; they go directly on the transom. Going to run 3200 under the entire hinge to bond it as well.
Thanks,
Brian

 

[zipper]

Hi;
I don't have the step in my hull; they go directly on the transom. Going to run 3200 under the entire hinge to bond it as well.
Thanks,
Brian

Hi Brian, I would use at least 4200 for the job. 3200 is not rated for below the waterline. Don't forget to seal each screw. Keep 5200 out of your hair, it will drip on you while you are under there.

 

[Brian Millette]

Hi Brian, I would use at least 4200 for the job. 3200 is not rated for below the waterline. Don't forget to seal each screw.

View attachment 87191

Nice catch. I did mean to say 5200 actually. Already got two tubes.
Thanks,
Brian

 

[swatski]

Nice catch. I did mean to say 5200 actually. Already got two tubes.
Thanks,
Brian

I’m sure you know but the 5200 stuff is magical - it spreads and magically appears on EVERYTHING! I guess that’s a part of its job! Lol. Have a bunch of rugs handy.

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[Beachbummer]

In addition, If you have latex gloves it makes it more bearable. It's sticky sticky.

 

[Mohamed Z Sherif]

I know I'm late to the game, but after reading all your posts, I decided to purchase a kit for my 2017 sx210. Installing now and called Lectrotab to ask why hinge mounting screws were 1 1/2" long when the transom is only 3/8 to 1/2' thick where the hinges are mounted. He seemed concerned that that was not very thick and that I should see if anyone on this board could comment on on thick the mounting point for the hinge was on other installs and if anyone has had problems. I would appreciate those comments. Thanks.
Brian

its still cold for me here on long island so i didn't get to do the install yet. what about if you use plywood on the inside for additional support?