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Lectrotab Trim Tabs

@gmtech16450yz The installation manual for my 12x12's, dont know that it is boat dependant, on my 07, called for #14 x 1 1/4" SS pan heads. I used 1 1/2"s because I used a 1/4" piece of HDPE to offset them from the hull for a better retracted angle around the step in my hull which you do not have. Hope this helps.
 
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Haha. It does appear that there isn't a single person on here that isn't thrilled with them. We absolutely love our boat and it gets pretty much anything it wants or needs to make it more amazing!

Yeah, I did spend a few hours reading all the posts before I pulled the trigger. Like happens a lot of times, there's almost TOO much info. lol. Screw size is either 12's or 14's? How long? I can figure it out once I get the tabs in my hands but I'm trying to be lazy and also have them on hand ahead of time. I'm not worried about drilling holes in my boat, I've already taken a giant hole saw and sawzall to it already! You should see what I did to the brand new RV we bought! Gutted half the interior when it was less than a month old!
 
Haha. It does appear that there isn't a single person on here that isn't thrilled with them. We absolutely love our boat and it gets pretty much anything it wants or needs to make it more amazing!

Yeah, I did spend a few hours reading all the posts before I pulled the trigger. Like happens a lot of times, there's almost TOO much info. lol. Screw size is either 12's or 14's? How long? I can figure it out once I get the tabs in my hands but I'm trying to be lazy and also have them on hand ahead of time. I'm not worried about drilling holes in my boat, I've already taken a giant hole saw and sawzall to it already! You should see what I did to the brand new RV we bought! Gutted half the interior when it was less than a month old!

"For my install I used self-tapping screws SS #12 but @rocknracing pointed out #14 would be better.[EDIT: AFTER running with my tabs for over a year now I think #12 is more than enough, important part is the drilling - see below]
My install went well, I was able to torque those screws real tight, have a pretty good feeling about it. The key, I think, is pre-drilling the holes the perfect size. In my case - with #12 SS screws (from Menards, self-tapping, sheet metal, full thread) - the best fit was w/ 11/64 drill bit.

BTW - if you still have the 5" scrap fiberglass cutouts from your speaker install - you could use those for testing the screw fit, as screws from different sources will fit a bit different and fiberglass is so different and so unforgiving. But I don't need to tell you that!"
 
gOT a quick Q for the guys wiht letro tabs, mine led indicators start flashing after a little while the turn off completely i believe its auto retracting whle on the go, does the indicators should remain lit all the time while on trim?
 
Mine remain lit while underway. Within a minute of coming off plane they auto retract and the led lights turn off. They automatically come back on once I take off and get on plane again.
 
Mine remain lit while underway. Within a minute of coming off plane they auto retract and the led lights turn off. They automatically come back on once I take off and get on plane again.
tHANKS thats what i thought, i will contact Russ tomorrow
 
I just got my order of screws from McMaster-Carr. Do you think I'll be able to attach the tabs and actuators with this?...


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Hahaha. I don't mess around! Actually when I order stuff for a project, I make sure to order a bunch of different sizes/etc so I always have plenty of fasteners "in stock". Plus buying all these was "only" $70 shipped. Buying this many stainless fasteners from my local hardware store or even Home Depot would have cost probably $300. If I bought all of these from West Marine the bill for screws probably would be more than I paid for the entire Lectro Tab kit!!!

It's all relative. Kind of like spending $300 on a tongue jack. It's a ~$50k boat that I have a lot of additional time invested in. $70 for screws for a $1,100 trim tab kit on a $50,000 boat seems pretty trivial to me.
 
Mine remain lit while underway. Within a minute of coming off plane they auto retract and the led lights turn off. They automatically come back on once I take off and get on plane again.
I talked to a tech he told me i need to attach #7 to a 12v thats the auto retract with the key off, mine instruction said it was optional and since i didnt know which cable to hookit to it i left it open. I read many post with different colors fwires for the ar230 2007 anyone know the correct color cable?
thanks
 
I talked to a tech he told me i need to attach #7 to a 12v thats the auto retract with the key off, mine instruction said it was optional and since i didnt know which cable to hookit to it i left it open. I read many post with different colors fwires for the ar230 2007 anyone know the correct color cable?
thanks
I did not connect the #7 and mine has worked normally. Like you said the manual says it's optional.
 
I did not connect the #7 and mine has worked normally. Like you said the manual says it's optional.
That is exactly what i told him on the phone and he said that was meant for the auto controller i will try it this weekend anyways
 
So i talked to Dan about my tabs retracting and he ask if i attached wire #7 i said no that the instructions said it was optional, well today i installed wire #7 to the yellow ignition wire on the 2007 AR230, and it worked it keeps the tabs from retracting while on the way.
 
I got mine yesterday!!!!! I'm trying to finish up some mods on my motorhome though so I might not start on the boat until Monday.
 
I still wonder how do you guys like the auto tab controllers?
I rarely find myself using the tabs for anything other than to push the bow down in chop/crossing wakes etc. - and I vary that according to conditions prevailing. No way I would want the system to do it for me unless I could re-calibrate on the spot.

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I still wonder how do you guys like the auto tab controllers?
I rarely find myself using the tabs for anything other than to push the bow down in chop/crossing wakes etc. - and I vary that according to conditions prevailing. No way I would want the system to do it for me unless I could re-calibrate on the spot.

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My auto controller works great in smooth water... but I rarely get to boat on smooth water. Today, like most days, I manually put the tabs to LED #2 and it keeps the bow down just right for mild chop. My current use is 95% manual.
 
How do you guys flip or rotate the actuator for mounting under the swim platform? Will it spin if I put it in a vice or should I pop the plastic pin?
 
How do you guys flip or rotate the actuator for mounting under the swim platform? Will it spin if I put it in a vice or should I pop the plastic pin?
The easiest way is to deploy/extend the ram - hook the actuator up to a 12v DC battery to operate.
But you will not damage the ram/actuator anyway rotating the attachment. If in doubt just give them a call.

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My tabs and auto controller are in and ready to go! I'll have my feedback and pics in a week, fwiw. I'm happy with the install, extremely solid and perfectly aligned. I used 14 x 1's and 14 x 1.75's for the tabs and 1/4-20 x 1.75 bolts, large fender washers and locknuts for the actuator mounts.

Using nuts and bolts in the actuators is harder, but there's not a whole lot of material to screw to and I'd feel better if those actuators had no chance in moving whatsoever. I also had to move the actuator mount holes on the tabs themselves since the tabs I ordered were "off the shelf" ones. Not a big deal and I figured I'd want to position them myself anyway. Making my own hole position in the tabs meant I could put the actuator mount exactly where I wanted it on the transom and still get the angle I wanted when fully retracted. I can't wait to try them out!
 
Do they retract once you remove the power?


When you look at the end of the wires, there will be two wires and one little tube in the harness. Simply hook the two wires to a battery, one on positive and one on negative. The actuator will run one direction. To reverse the actuator, simply swap the wires on the battery. You can't short it out, over extend, strip or hurt them so don't worry about any of that.
 
Do they retract once you remove the power?
Not unless the system is all hooked up to the controler with auto-retract feature (which retracts the tabs automatically when the switched power is off).
WHat gmtech said is correct. Just reverse the polarity to reverse the movement. you will not damage the actuators.
(don;t do this with a bilge pump or any aerator type pump! instant fail!)

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