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Making DVSR Active with Engines On Only

Getting ready to make this mod this weekend on an e series boat. Thought is that I can just cut the red loop wire and install a switch. When the switch is in the on (closed) position the DVSR will be active. When I switch it to off (open) the dvsr is not active and I can use a dual bank charger without any issues.

My concern is that if I tie it into the ignition on switch, the batteries will not charge with the solar panels while in a slip or in float mode.
 
Getting ready to make this mod this weekend on an e series boat. Thought is that I can just cut the red loop wire and install a switch. When the switch is in the on (closed) position the DVSR will be active. When I switch it to off (open) the dvsr is not active and I can use a dual bank charger without any issues.

My concern is that if I tie it into the ignition on switch, the batteries will not charge with the solar panels while in a slip or in float mode.
If that’s how you’re approaching it just put the switch on the ground wire. Way easier. It’s how I have mine done.
 
I cut the ground wire and put alligator clips - disconnect when charging
 
@Hector thanks for the advice. It was much easier than removing all the switches to get at the red wire. Works great.
 
FYI, the DVSR relay in my 2008 232 does NOT have the red jumper wire. I may call MARINCO tomorrow, but I think that I will need to upgrade to a newer model to perform this mod. This or go with the 120V relay method as mentioned in the first few posts.
 
FYI, the DVSR relay in my 2008 232 does NOT have the red jumper wire. I may call MARINCO tomorrow, but I think that I will need to upgrade to a newer model to perform this mod. This or go with the 120V relay method as mentioned in the first few posts.
I’m not 100% sure but I think dvsr is in later models (maybe 2012 up) and dsr is what standard in pre 2012 models.
 
Getting ready to make this mod this weekend on an e series boat. Thought is that I can just cut the red loop wire and install a switch. When the switch is in the on (closed) position the DVSR will be active. When I switch it to off (open) the dvsr is not active and I can use a dual bank charger without any issues.

My concern is that if I tie it into the ignition on switch, the batteries will not charge with the solar panels while in a slip or in float mode.

If that’s how you’re approaching it just put the switch on the ground wire. Way easier. It’s how I have mine done.

So is this the "confirmed" fix for E-Series boats?
 
Toggle switch on the tiny ground wire coming off the DVSR unit seems to work great on mine.
 
Toggle switch on the tiny ground wire coming off the DVSR unit seems to work great on mine.
Cool, thanks. I didn't even realize this was an issue until accidently coming across this post. I think I'll unplug my charger today until I get a chance to get a switch on there, unless @Mainah has come up with some fancy relay/diode/whatever way for it to auto switch itself and is keeping it a secret.... lol Do you happen to have a pic of yours?
 
Cool, thanks. I didn't even realize this was an issue until accidently coming across this post. I think I'll unplug my charger today until I get a chance to get a switch on there, unless @Mainah has come up with some fancy relay/diode/whatever way for it to auto switch itself and is keeping it a secret.... lol Do you happen to have a pic of yours?
yes it works, you can even use spade connectors or even a wire nut to reconnect if you want the engines to charge all batteries while running.
I spend a lot more time "parked" than running so my black wire is pretty much always disconnected.
 
Pics of the wiring setup....please
Really not necessary. There is a little black wire (should be connected to the ground of any of your batteries)coming of your dvsr switch box, just cut it . You can then twist them together, wire but them together, put a on/off switch or anything you want so you break the ground while charging from your charger at home and reconnecting them together when you want the boat to charge them while engines running.
 
I cut my black wire going to the battery and put alligator clip on it in case I would like to connect it later
I don't need because I have an on board dual charger and charge batteries before ever use.
 

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I’m not 100% sure but I think dvsr is in later models (maybe 2012 up) and dsr is what standard in pre 2012 models.
It is a "VSR" and not "DVSR" and something I missed. However, the correct solution from this thread is to just add the switch on the ground sense lead, and problem solved! Hopefully this saves someone else from having the hassle of removing their older relay and switch assembly unnecessarily. :winkingthumbsup"
 
This was so confusing to me, I followed what the guys said after I finally got it, and everything works great - pics in post #30
https://jetboaters.net/threads/installing-3-bank-charger-on-2016-e-series.11830/page-2
(with one disclaimer - perhaps best to use marine rated wire, not speaker wire like I did)

This is just a low current high level signal wire to the DVSR. Individually tinned stranded copper speaker wire like knuknoceptz sells is fine for this application. Pure copper speaker wire as well for that matter. CSA, CCC, cl-2, cl-3, and AWM 1007 is all good stuff. CCA, AL, and AA is not stuff you want to use for a boat.
 
What is the voltage of a fully charged/tendered battery during storage? 12.5 volts sound right?
 
Curious. Are your VSR wired on the battery side or load side of the switches?

If it's wired on the load side then the red wire wouldn't matter, nor would it matter to have the older models without the red wire.
 
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