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Making DVSR Active with Engines On Only

No, the DVSR loop is active even with switches off (verified this when I did the mod). I also verified that the DVSR does in fact engage when I turn the switches off and turn on my charger, which defeats the "smart" portion of the charger on individual banks.

Interesting. Given this info, then the current from the solar panels would hopefully be connected to the DVSR and also charge the batteries (in daylight) even with the switches off?

I'm interesting in understanding the solar panel operation as I am about to hook up an onboard charger and don't want it to mess up or be messed up by the solar charging. I assuming making the change described in this thread would effectively prevent the solar panels from charging the batteries if the engine wasn't running????
 
From the factory, the solar panels appear to work with engines off, as my DVSR stayed on long after the boat and switches were off, making me think the solar panel was providing a charging current.

You are correct that the DVSR will now not work with the solar panels with the engines off, but I'm assuming they should still charge whichever one they are directly connected to?

Again, a wiring diagram and info on the solar panels would have been awesome to have from Yamaha!!
 
Why is this mod necessary on the boats with solar panels? Not enough juice?
 
Why is this mod necessary on the boats with solar panels? Not enough juice?

That is a great question....initially my plan was to just use solar power to charge mine. Then I had this dead battery issue and realized that the solar charging was going to take forever (if it even could) to really juice up that battery (I took it out and charged it on a big charger). Then of course, solar only works during the day. So if you go out on Saturday, eat dinner on the lake (like we've gotten in the habit of doing) and then arrive back Sunday at noon to boat some more. The solar panels have only had 4-6 hours to charge two batteries at 1.5 amp hours MAX. I've ordered a 12 amp (6 per battery) charger...so it will charge MUCH faster than solar....
 
Cant you achieve the same thing by just putting a quick disconnect on the dvsr ground wire?
Thats what i did .
 
Cant you achieve the same thing by just putting a quick disconnect on the dvsr ground wire?
Thats what i did .

Sure. It's just knocking a leg off a stool. Lots of ways to do it. The reason you would hook to the boats electrical system to have the DVSR only be active when the engines are running is when you don't trust yourself to remember the switches or when you wet slip and want to have everything ready to go so you can turn on the blowers, drop the cord, start the motors, throw lines and drive away.
 
Sorry for a potentially dumb question. I just upgraded from an sx190 (with a manually upgraded second battery) to a 242 LS E (with the factory dual battery setup). I have a Noco dual bank charger with leads directly to the + and - terminals on each battery. Why do I need this mod? Will they not charge? Seems hard to believe since there isn't anything in-line to stop it from charging.
 
yes, they will charge... sort of :).

The issue is that the DVSR will confuse the charger, and stop the banks from being read independently. Your "smart" charger will be more like an old "dumb" charger, taking away the advantages of these new chargers.
 
I had to go read about how the smart charger works. Now, I get it. Thanks.
 
OK, sorry for being dense about this but I want to add a 3 bank charger to my 2016 242 E-series while it sits on the trailer all winter and in-between weekend trips. What exactly do I need to do? Also by doing this, will the solar chargers still work while the boat is off/in float mode?
 
OK, sorry for being dense about this but I want to add a 3 bank charger to my 2016 242 E-series while it sits on the trailer all winter and in-between weekend trips. What exactly do I need to do? Also by doing this, will the solar chargers still work while the boat is off/in float mode?

This is actually a bit easier. You never want to charge a frozen battery and you live far enough north so just pull the batteries and put them on a board to keep them off the concrete in your basement or garage that does not freeze and leave them on the smart charger for the winter, checking levels from time to time.
 
@fraserjr - For winter I pull my batteries and the smart charger from the boat and put them on my basement workbench to charge for the season. For boating season hook the charger directly to the batteries in the boat.

The dvsr red loop wire concerns are valid so that your smart charger stays smart. I don't know how the solar charge controller is setup in the e-series boats so it is possible that it requies the redloop wire to be connected to deliver power to both banks.
 
Is this issue only for the Limited SE or AR240 is included? I am just not getting how you all get to this conclusion? When a charger is wired directly to the battery posts, I don't see how the DVSR can stop it from working how's intended to do? From what I read it seems that the DVSR will stop the smart charger? I don't see how when the charger is not attached to the DVSR. Sorry for the ignorance. Also I would need more diagrams to pull this off as I'm confused. But if true I def want to get my fixed as I have onboard 2 bank charger in my boat.
 
All boats with the bep dvsr have this issue. The dvsr connects the two banks when it is reading enough voltage from the start battery effectively making it one bank. The smart charger can no longer properly differentiate the two differnt banks as a result. The red loop wire is essentially the on swtich so that the dvsr can sense the voltage and because it is a loop it is always on. This is how Yamaha choose to install the dvsr. It is not a defect per say but once you introduce the smart charger as an after market accessory there is certainly a much better way.

My guess is that someone else here can post the diagram or instructions for it.
 
Is this issue only for the Limited SE or AR240 is included? I am just not getting how you all get to this conclusion? When a charger is wired directly to the battery posts, I don't see how the DVSR can stop it from working how's intended to do? From what I read it seems that the DVSR will stop the smart charger? I don't see how when the charger is not attached to the DVSR. Sorry for the ignorance. Also I would need more diagrams to pull this off as I'm confused. But if true I def want to get my fixed as I have onboard 2 bank charger in my boat.
@FloJet I was thinking the same exact thoughts as of yesterday. Fortunately, these guys tirelessly managed to straiten the issue!
@davel501, @BBottoms, @Mainah, and @Derek Fosbury

This was one of the helpful posts/threads for me:
https://jetboaters.net/threads/installing-3-bank-charger-on-2016-e-series.11830/
 
Ok thanks. Would I have to open up the DVSR to cut the red wire? Is the DVSR the box located in battery compartment next to the Perc switch?
 
Ok thanks. Would I have to open up the DVSR to cut the red wire? Is the DVSR the box located in battery compartment next to the Perc switch?
I think this is a picture of the red loop (cut) on the back of the DVSR module (reposted from a @Kevin107 post)
image-jpg.5515
 
Yes all of the mounting bolts for the switches and dvsr need to be removed and then the back pops rights off. To be clear cutting the red loop and not doing anything else would be bad as the DVSR would never work in that case.

Test both sides of the cut for voltage while connected to the batteries. The side with +12vdc is the one to tape off if not runoing a switch. The other side is the one to hook the engine on or relay wire to.

Connect to the engine on wire or run a switch inline, or hook up to a relay (you supply and wire as normally open) that is triggered by the charger.
 
I used a quick splice filled and topped with silicone prior to crimping for the engine on wire.
Mainah, what gauge wire do you think the eng on wire is? 16?
 
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