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New shorelander trailer falling apart!

At least the tire tech had a clipboard in there to prevent accidental crack.
Bias Ply sucks. I've been down this road with a travel trailer. No matter what I did the interior of the trailer was literally tearing itself apart every tow.

I ended up with new rims, LT tires and Centramatic dynamic wheel balancers. I'm not sure if Centramatics would work well in a marine environment.
http://www.centramatic.com/balancers.rhtml
 
Well for those who are still having issues with the trailer fenders I may have found part of the problem. It seems they don't pre-bend the diamond plate before bolting it on. It just acts like a giant spring pulling up on the fender and tearing the diamond plate. Here are pics with the old plate on top and the new one I pre bent underneath. That much tension on the metal is causing it to rip and the fender to bounce it think. 20160515_141231.jpg20160515_141250.jpg 20160515_141243.jpg
 
Does anyone know of an available fender mod for these trailers? My fenders are plastic on my new 2016 AR240. I'd love to change them out to steel or real diamond plate. Very disappointed on how cheap they are. My 19' rinker had a better trailer manufactured by Trailmaster. It was much more heavy duty than this trailer.
 
I know towing was not pleasant before I replaced the biased ply with radials. I was told that two wheels could not be balanced. After replacing the tires I towed from Kentucky to Florida without the problems. I also lost a fender bolt.
 
Yea i moved to radials and it was night vs day.. very smooth at any speed. Well worth the money
 
Wish I had found this thread earlier. A couple of weeks ago I had shaking in my truck at 45-55 mph went I left the dealer. I figured it could be the back roads I was on but thought something was up. When I hit the highway I knew something was not right and pulled over. The tire pressure was at max for the tire so I let out 5 psi each but also noticed no wheel weights on the outside of the rim so I checked the inside and there were clamp on weights on the inside only. Thought that was odd but got back on the road and not much of a difference. Only been over 50 twice since and same vibration. Now after reading this thread the light comes on ... bias ply. I will be ordering new wheels and radial tires tonight. Anyone want to buy some barely used trailer tires and wheels?
 
Forgot to mention that I will be checking all of the bolts tomorrow. I have already upgraded to a stoltz ultimate roller and replaced the flat 5 with a hardwired 7 pin. Sucks that Shorelander is cutting the quality corner to make a few extra bucks which in turn costs us hundreds not to mention our time.
 
Newest problem, missing bearing buddy. Must have come off on the highway. These trailers are disigned to last just past the 1 year warranty. Don't forget to check the grease also. After 1 year mine were almost dry and I didn't tow that much. I don't think shorelander fills them at the factory, just enough to last past the warranty.
 
My tail lights just quit working. I didn't realize the individual lights are plugged into the wiring system. The there are two more plugs where the trailer V's. All the plugs have corroded and come apart. I have to cut all of the plugs out this week and hard wire them. I was getting ready to replace the tail lights when I found them.
 
@blacksapphirez - Hey bud you may want to read through this thread before buying those tires.
 
Is it too F-ing much to ask to just have shit work out when you drop $50k+ on a brand new boat and trailer. . . . . Shit like this literally boils my blood.

Agreed - mine is only a little over a month old with just a few hundred miles on it and the fenders are cracked around the bolts. Poor workmanship and/or materials at best. I have not had a problem with vibration yet, but I generally do not tow the boat over 65 - it really kills my mileage :/
 
Now look at what happened.. POS.. wheel folded over on the jack with an empty trailer.. and you cant just replace the jack. You must remove the tire winch stand.
2016-06-03 10.13.51.jpg
 
Yea but you see how the jack tilts back..its always been that way and it could be very bad if it collapsed with the boats weight or me jacking it up.
 
Yeah I saw that.. is your retention pin bent or is it not fully engaging? Worst case scenario is if the receiving port for the retention pin is elongated. That then is when you have to replace the entire jack.
(I've had to deal with this before... not fun)
 
I have a Fulton 1,500lb jack on my trailer. It works pretty good. I also use one of these under the wheel to keep it from sinking in.
51AGFPP4CBL.jpg

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-44632-W..._UL160_SR160,160_&refRID=0SC1RRJ7KTTS910JGYYP
 
Man, that sux - lucky that did not happen when the boat was on the trailer.
 
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