New shorelander trailer falling apart!

[john94si]

Put in a claim
https://jetboaters.net/threads/boun...isle-stands-behind-their-product.10916/page-9

 

[Betik]

Has anyone considered using
Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System
as solution for this issue?

I was just wondering on Plus and minus of this approach

 

[Mainah]

I am now of a different opinion the root cause of the trailer issues. From the factory my tongue weight was over 600 lbs. When the butter zone is between 300 and 400 (I settled on 383 lbs for a normal wet load). With a significantly overloaded tongue (36 percent over weight) there is too much weight on the front tires and while the equalizer tries to makes up for this it is under a lot of stress along with the front leaf springs during road vibrations and bumps. The front tires are overloaded meaning the rear tires are sometime just bouncing along back there. The bracket that connects the fender is mounted to the same point as the equalizer. If the weight was more evenly distributed the whole system would function better.

I made my own ultra precise (+/- 0.5 lbs) pneumatic load cell with a digital gauge and it calibrated perfectly using olympic weight plates. I determined that 35.5 to 37 inches from the end of the coupler to the leading edge of the bow roller post bracket is the optimum distance for my trailer (I landed on 35.25 inches). The reason I say mine is that it is possible that the axels are not mounted precisely the same distance from the tongue at the factory and a tiny move of the axle is equal to a big move of the bow roller post. Point being before you move yours beware that it could be different for you. I can say towing is significantly improved along with the weight on the tongue jack.

I still believe both the original fender bracket and the upgraded one are poorly engineered and allow too much oscillation of the fender. That said moving the bow roller post is by far the most important fix while also being easy and quick with nothing more than a tire iron and tape measure needed after launching the boat. Play it safe with how much you move it to make sure you don't move too far back. Ideally find a way to weigh your tongue and make sure is is between 5 and 7 percent ( I prefer the higher end) of the total wet weight of the boat and trailer together. Just as important is to make sure the trailer is level when on the tow ball which may require a different receiver.

You can buy tongue weight scales online this one https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-...7&sr=8-2&keywords=trailer+tongue+weight+scale

There is also a product out there that is a receiver hitch and scale in one known as weigh safe. It is a great idea but poorly executed for our needs in the 300 - 400 lb range because of the gauge used and issues folks have had with it.

@Betik If you are interested in improved suspension for the trailer I think trailer shocks would be far cheaper, easier to install, and just as effective. Before doing that try getting the trailer level and the tongue weighted correctly.

 

[Coheeba]

I am now of a different opinion the root cause of the trailer issues. From the factory my tongue weight was over 600 lbs. When the butter zone is between 300 and 400 (I settled on 383 lbs for a normal wet load). With a significantly overloaded tongue (36 percent over weight) there is too much weight on the front tires and while the equalizer tries to makes up for this it is under a lot of stress along with the front leaf springs during road vibrations and bumps. The front tires are overloaded meaning the rear tires are sometime just bouncing along back there. The bracket that connects the fender is mounted to the same point as the equalizer. If the weight was more evenly distributed the whole system would function better.

I made my own ultra precise (+/- 0.5 lbs) pneumatic load cell with a digital gauge and it calibrated perfectly using olympic weight plates. I determined that 35.5 to 37 inches from the end of the coupler to the leading edge of the bow roller post bracket is the optimum distance for my trailer (I landed on 35.25 inches). The reason I say mine is that it is possible that the axels are not mounted precisely the same distance from the tongue at the factory and a tiny move of the axle is equal to a big move of the bow roller post. Point being before you move yours beware that it could be different for you. I can say towing is significantly improved along with the weight on the tongue jack.

I still believe both the original fender bracket and the upgraded one are poorly engineered and allow too much oscillation of the fender. That said moving the bow roller post is by far the most important fix while also being easy and quick with nothing more than a tire iron and tape measure needed after launching the boat. Play it safe with how much you move it to make sure you don't move too far back. Ideally find a way to weigh your tongue and make sure is is between 5 and 7 percent ( I prefer the higher end) of the total wet weight of the boat and trailer together. Just as important is to make sure the trailer is level when on the tow ball which may require a different receiver.

You can buy tongue weight scales online this one https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-...7&sr=8-2&keywords=trailer+tongue+weight+scale

There is also a product out there that is a receiver hitch and scale in one known as weigh safe. It is a great idea but poorly executed for our needs in the 300 - 400 lb range because of the gauge used and issues folks have had with it.

@Betik If you are interested in improved suspension for the trailer I think trailer shocks would be far cheaper, easier to install, and just as effective. Before doing that try getting the trailer level and the tongue weighted correctly.

I found the scale on their website for $131 Shipped. You can get the 1k, 2k or 5k same price Tongue Scale

 

[Mainah]

I found the scale on their website for $131 Shipped. You can get the 1k, 2k or 5k same price Tongue Scale

The 1k is what I would recommend for precision in the 300 - 400 lb range.

 

[Betik]

The 1k is what I would recommend for precision in the 300 - 400 lb range.

Done $141 shipped .

 

[Davidl69620013]

anyone else with a 2015 24' having issues with thier trailer? Last week I noticed while gassing up that the fender bolts were very loose. I tightened them all up. This week it seemed that the fender was rattling on the highway, after getting home I noticed another bolt gone altogether. You may want to check your trailer for loose bolts!!

It happen to my trailer too when I first got it. Eventually called someone in shorelander and they let me know they were having a national issue with that. They replaced it for free. They sent the parts to our dealer in Southern California and they paid for it all.

 

[Ricky Davila]

Do you happen to have the shorelander contact info?

It happen to my trailer too when I first got it. Eventually called someone in shorelander and they let me know they were having a national issue with that. They replaced it for free. They sent the parts to our dealer in Southern California and they paid for it all.

 

[Edward]

I am now of a different opinion the root cause of the trailer issues. From the factory my tongue weight was over 600 lbs. When the butter zone is between 300 and 400 (I settled on 383 lbs for a normal wet load). With a significantly overloaded tongue (36 percent over weight) there is too much weight on the front tires and while the equalizer tries to makes up for this it is under a lot of stress along with the front leaf springs during road vibrations and bumps. The front tires are overloaded meaning the rear tires are sometime just bouncing along back there. The bracket that connects the fender is mounted to the same point as the equalizer. If the weight was more evenly distributed the whole system would function better.

I made my own ultra precise (+/- 0.5 lbs) pneumatic load cell with a digital gauge and it calibrated perfectly using olympic weight plates. I determined that 35.5 to 37 inches from the end of the coupler to the leading edge of the bow roller post bracket is the optimum distance for my trailer (I landed on 35.25 inches). The reason I say mine is that it is possible that the axels are not mounted precisely the same distance from the tongue at the factory and a tiny move of the axle is equal to a big move of the bow roller post. Point being before you move yours beware that it could be different for you. I can say towing is significantly improved along with the weight on the tongue jack.

I still believe both the original fender bracket and the upgraded one are poorly engineered and allow too much oscillation of the fender. That said moving the bow roller post is by far the most important fix while also being easy and quick with nothing more than a tire iron and tape measure needed after launching the boat. Play it safe with how much you move it to make sure you don't move too far back. Ideally find a way to weigh your tongue and make sure is is between 5 and 7 percent ( I prefer the higher end) of the total wet weight of the boat and trailer together. Just as important is to make sure the trailer is level when on the tow ball which may require a different receiver.

You can buy tongue weight scales online this one https://www.amazon.com/Sherline-LM-...7&sr=8-2&keywords=trailer+tongue+weight+scale

There is also a product out there that is a receiver hitch and scale in one known as weigh safe. It is a great idea but poorly executed for our needs in the 300 - 400 lb range because of the gauge used and issues folks have had with it.

@Betik If you are interested in improved suspension for the trailer I think trailer shocks would be far cheaper, easier to install, and just as effective. Before doing that try getting the trailer level and the tongue weighted correctly.

Totally agree that something else was going on with the trailer....I didn’t think this was a bad fender design or tire problem...now, I think the use of low cost materials and cutting corners on supplies compounded the root cause that there is something else going on with the trailer......I got so fed up with having to replace the fender twice (on both sides) and getting new tires and then the clear coat chipping away on the tires and the overall poor quality and noticaably bad vibration when pulling that my dealer and I came to an acceptable agreement to just replace my trailer and ordered an ezloader trailer. Problem solved and I have a much nicer trailer without these silly issues.

Sad part is when I went to turn in the old trailer looked like one side was already showing signs of cracking and bolts on that side had come loose and fallen off. Almost like the techs that relaxed it the 2nd time knew it was an issue and was afraid to tighten too much and crack it at install. Man....never before had I had such issues with a trailer.

 

[Davidl69620013]

Do you happen to have the shorelander contact info?

I don’t as it was 2 years ago. I called my dealer and they first sent me round in circles and then they found a number and I was able to call their office and it went really fast. My suggestion is calling the dealer you bought it from and asking for the shorelander number

 

[swatski]

Do you happen to have the shorelander contact info?

Check this out for all the info
https://jetboaters.net/threads/bouncy-shorelandr-trailer-carlisle-stands-behind-their-product.10916/

--

 

[WOOKIE]

No way in hell that trailer should be bouncing and vibrating like that. Sounds like somebody curbed it when they were delivering it to the dealer. Bent wheel?

I just got back from a trip which entailed about 2000 miles round trip with my shore lander. No vibration, cracked fenders, or loose bolts. Your dealer needs to get you another trailer, period.

My fenders support brackets broke and shore lander repaired and welded Begay support brackets all under warranty

 

[WOOKIE]

My fenders support brackets broke and shore lander repaired and welded Begay support brackets all under warranty

Beefy brackets. Very little rattle happening now