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No spark in Port Engine of 2000 LS2000

the MfM

Jetboaters Commander
Messages
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Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2000
Boat Model
LS
Boat Length
20
Ah, we have @the MfM in the house. Finally, an expert on these engines...

Do you know a diagnostic procedure for the stator?
There’s ohm specs for the cdi box in the service manual. But these are pretty simple systems and not much in there that would cause the boat to run rough and then die...There is no ECU black box. Magnets Falling off aren’t a common problem (that’s more of a sportjet issue). though the OP could pull the stator cover and make sure Metal bits aren’t floating around.

I’d be looking at compression. After testing spark.


And of course look at the battery/starter cables. And make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Ecspecially the grounds.
 
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Messages
30
Reaction score
9
Points
17
Location
Mims FL
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2000
Boat Model
LS
Boat Length
20
And you should never need starting fluid...rebuild the carbs!!!!
On that we can agree to disagree....the reason you need starter fluid is because if you let the boat sit for a few days, gas drains back into the tank and you'll sit there for ten minutes wearing out your starter trying to get it to crank unless you give it some gas or starter fluid through the carb cover. Found that out the hard way until someone suggested it....fires right up every time now with the starter fluid (when the engine is actually running that is). Soon as it fires the first time, it starts drawing gas into the carbs and she runs like a champ. This doesn't have a fuel pump installed or primer bulbs. So the quick and easy way to start it after it's set for days/weeks, is a shot of starter fluid.

NOW, beyond that, here is where I am on diagnosing my non-spark issue: Have eliminated ALL of the kill type switches (neutral switch, lanyard kill switch, clean out plug switches, and ignition switch....ALL GOOD). Researched it here and on the other forum for yamahas and seems to be down to either the Stator or the CDI unit inside the ignition module. Neither is a cheap or easy changeout relatively speaking. I did check the fuse behind that knob, and it was good (double checked it with an ohm meter to be certain).

So do anyone here have any experience with changing out that CDI box inside the ignition module? I took the cover off today, but you can't see down inside it because it's too low to see anything behind the motor. Going to try using my cell phone to snap a picture down there tomorrow and see what I can see, but there is a bundle of wires and connectors over some sort of rubber boot which I THINK is covering the CDI? The manual gives me one test to try checking peak voltage while cranking that I'm going to try next before pulling out that box. Anyone have any useful info?
 
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