No spark in Port Engine of 2000 LS2000

[the MfM]

Ah, we have @the MfM in the house. Finally, an expert on these engines...

Do you know a diagnostic procedure for the stator?

There’s ohm specs for the cdi box in the service manual. But these are pretty simple systems and not much in there that would cause the boat to run rough and then die...There is no ECU black box. Magnets Falling off aren’t a common problem (that’s more of a sportjet issue). though the OP could pull the stator cover and make sure Metal bits aren’t floating around.

I’d be looking at compression. After testing spark.


And of course look at the battery/starter cables. And make sure all the connections are clean and tight. Ecspecially the grounds.

 

[jjtherocketman]

And you should never need starting fluid...rebuild the carbs!!!!

On that we can agree to disagree....the reason you need starter fluid is because if you let the boat sit for a few days, gas drains back into the tank and you'll sit there for ten minutes wearing out your starter trying to get it to crank unless you give it some gas or starter fluid through the carb cover. Found that out the hard way until someone suggested it....fires right up every time now with the starter fluid (when the engine is actually running that is). Soon as it fires the first time, it starts drawing gas into the carbs and she runs like a champ. This doesn't have a fuel pump installed or primer bulbs. So the quick and easy way to start it after it's set for days/weeks, is a shot of starter fluid.

NOW, beyond that, here is where I am on diagnosing my non-spark issue: Have eliminated ALL of the kill type switches (neutral switch, lanyard kill switch, clean out plug switches, and ignition switch....ALL GOOD). Researched it here and on the other forum for yamahas and seems to be down to either the Stator or the CDI unit inside the ignition module. Neither is a cheap or easy changeout relatively speaking. I did check the fuse behind that knob, and it was good (double checked it with an ohm meter to be certain).

So do anyone here have any experience with changing out that CDI box inside the ignition module? I took the cover off today, but you can't see down inside it because it's too low to see anything behind the motor. Going to try using my cell phone to snap a picture down there tomorrow and see what I can see, but there is a bundle of wires and connectors over some sort of rubber boot which I THINK is covering the CDI? The manual gives me one test to try checking peak voltage while cranking that I'm going to try next before pulling out that box. Anyone have any useful info?

 

[the MfM]

On that we can agree to disagree....the reason you need starter fluid is because if you let the boat sit for a few days, gas drains back into the tank and you'll sit there for ten minutes wearing out your starter trying to get it to crank unless you give it some gas or starter fluid through the carb cover. Found that out the hard way until someone suggested it....fires right up every time now with the starter fluid (when the engine is actually running that is). Soon as it fires the first time, it starts drawing gas into the carbs and she runs like a champ. This doesn't have a fuel pump installed or primer bulbs. So the quick and easy way to start it after it's set for days/weeks, is a shot of starter fluid.

I could agree with you but then we’d both be wrong. I can guarantee you that these boats don’t need ten minutes of cranking no matter how long they sit if the carb racks are in good shape.

What you are describing is a classic example of carbs/fuel pumps needing to be rebuilt. (Each engine has three diaphragm fuel pumps as part of the carb rack) The starter fluid will help mask the problem for a while but eventually you will burn up a piston when of the carbs completely clogs up or one of the fuel pumps can’t provide enough fuel to a cylinder.

If it takes more then 30 seconds of cranking (with full choke) to get fuel to the cylinder it’s likely time to rebuild the carb racks. You could add an in-line 12v fuel pump for even quicker priming. But the carbs still need to be in good shape and clean.

 

[the MfM]

NOW, beyond that, here is where I am on diagnosing my non-spark issue: Have eliminated ALL of the kill type switches (neutral switch, lanyard kill switch, clean out plug switches, and ignition switch....ALL GOOD). Researched it here and on the other forum for yamahas and seems to be down to either the Stator or the CDI unit inside the ignition module. Neither is a cheap or easy changeout relatively speaking. I did check the fuse behind that knob, and it was good (double checked it with an ohm meter to be certain).

How do you know you have no spark? Have you put an in line spark tester on the boat or are you going by how the engine sounds when you try to start the it?

If you’ve already done it... forgive me for asking such basic questions as its hard to get a sense of where someone’s at via these forums.

 

[the MfM]

So do anyone here have any experience with changing out that CDI box inside the ignition module? I took the cover off today, but you can't see down inside it because it's too low to see anything behind the motor. Going to try using my cell phone to snap a picture down there tomorrow and see what I can see, but there is a bundle of wires and connectors over some sort of rubber boot which I THINK is covering the CDI? The manual gives me one test to try checking peak voltage while cranking that I'm going to try next before pulling out that box. Anyone have any useful info?

Its nearly impossible to do anything inside that box or stator without taking them out of the boat. I’d consider adding deustch connectors in the harness between the stator and cdi box. Most of the rebuilders will add these for a small fee. Makes life easier if you are having a problem with one or the other.

And if you add one to both engines you could make up a extended cable to let you use the opposite cdi box for diagnosing without having to mess around with swapping them from side to side.

But I’d be sure to test compression and use an in-line spark tester before going through all that trouble.

 

[jjtherocketman]

How do you know you have no spark? Have you put an in line spark tester on the boat or are you going by how the engine sounds when you try to start the it?

If you’ve already done it... forgive me for asking such basic questions as its hard to get a sense of where someone’s at via these forums.

Pulled the plugs and held them against the block and turned it over to look for the blue spark. No spark. But I did buy a spark tester and will re-verify.

 

[jjtherocketman]

Its nearly impossible to do anything inside that box or stator without taking them out of the boat. I’d consider adding deustch connectors in the harness between the stator and cdi box. Most of the rebuilders will add these for a small fee. Makes life easier if you are having a problem with one or the other.

And if you add one to both engines you could make up a extended cable to let you use the opposite cdi box for diagnosing without having to mess around with swapping them from side to side.

But I’d be sure to test compression and use an in-line spark tester before going through all that trouble.

View attachment 140660

Good idea, but that would be a heck of a lot of connectors to add on the ignition module to be able to pop that whole box out. Was trying to avoid pulling it off the bulkhead, but I think you're right, tried a couple of techniques to look down in there with my phone and mirror. At least now I know the CDI isn't attached inside the module, but it is captive behind a bunch of harness protrusions through the side wall(s). Definitely don't want to try and pry it out blindly. From what little I've been able to see so far, I'm guessing there must be one direction that CDI box needs to come out in order to get it out at all?

 

[Mark P]

Good idea, but that would be a heck of a lot of connectors to add on the ignition module to be able to pop that whole box out. Was trying to avoid pulling it off the bulkhead, but I think you're right, tried a couple of techniques to look down in there with my phone and mirror. At least now I know the CDI isn't attached inside the module, but it is captive behind a bunch of harness protrusions through the side wall(s). Definitely don't want to try and pry it out blindly. From what little I've been able to see so far, I'm guessing there must be one direction that CDI box needs to come out in order to get it out at all?

Hi , I have a similar problem with my 2001 LS2000.
No spark on one ( right ) engine after winter storage , the other one starts fine.
Have you figured out the issue ?

 

[jjtherocketman]

Hi , I have a similar problem with my 2001 LS2000.
No spark on one ( right ) engine after winter storage , the other one starts fine.
Have you figured out the issue ?

Yes, in my case, it was a bad stator. I ended up taking it to the shop and they confirmed the issue after I had checked every other possible problem, even swapped out the CDI box, no luck. Changing the stator without taking the engine out was just more than I wanted to attempt since it's such a blind reach down there. Took it to the "experts" and they swapped it out and she was good to go after that. Although now, I'm dealing with water in my gas tank and carbs needing a rebuild LOL. What's the old saying? Best days of your life are the day you buy the boat and the day you sell it?

 

[kw1162]

Hello, I'm having the same issue and have gone through all the same hell you went through, including replacing the CDI (what a pain in the A$$ that was). Unfortunately, I am 6'3" and it doesn't sound like I can reach the Stator either. How much did it cost to get it replaced?

 

[84rzv500r]

Seems like you skipped over the Stator as being a possible problem? That's what's being suggested on the "other jetboat forum" lol Apparently those have become loose or inoperative on some as well. That would/could also kill your spark. In regards to your coil possibility, if it was just one dead cylinder, I would still get some pop, possibly even start, albeit very roughly. I'm not getting anything when the motor turns over. ECU seems a bit odd to have just up and died all at once out on the water? I suppose if it was some sort of ESD event that zapped it, maybe a current surge? I'm sure there are probably a few other electrical gizmos in that ignition module that could have also crapped out. I'm just not good with electrical diagnosis unfortunately and unless someone has an easy way to check them with an ohm meter, I won't ever find it. I may be getting closer to taking it to a jet ski tech in my area since I've ruled out the kill switches now.

Reason I've ruled out the lanyard is because I unplugged and swapped the two lines to each engine. IF it was that lanyard switch, it would have killed the good engine and allowed the non-starting engine to fire. It didn't. Also checked it with an ohm meter and it followed the appropriate state change as listed in the manual. But I DO appreciate the reply. I have to keep all possibilities in mind, but much prefer eliminating as many as possible before I start buying parts that I don't need....especially very expensive ones! ;-)

stator is the weak point get the OEM stator if you dont want Issues... some aftermarket are junk... they burn up one of the wires.. as suggested its better add connector plugs... the Service manual lists the valid resistance ranges... I used to keep a couple of spare stators... you can change it in less than an hour with practice LOL

 

[Enigma74]

Not sure if this forum is still going but I'll ask away. I've the same issue doesn't want to pop turns just fine. A wire I found completely detached from the boot itself and another im sure is not to far behind. I'm sure it's the wires needing replaced pricey but here is my next question. It being hard to find most parts for my 99 ls2000 I bought two motors a guy didn't need but his was a exciter could I use the wires from the exciter to possible save myself from buying more wires? Is it compatible? My exhaust cover cracked so I looked everywhere for one but again ended up running across the guy with the motors and seeing how hard most parts where to find I just settled on storing the bought ones and using parts from it. Anyway any help is much appreciated this for me is also my first boat.

 

[Hoppy]

Its usually best to start your own tread instead of reviving someone elses old thread it prevents confusion. I'm not not sure what wire detached from the boot you are talking about? If it is the spark plug wire to the spark plug boot, the boot screws onto the wire you may need to trim just a little off the wire so the screw in the boot has new wire to hold onto. The 270HP exciters would have been the same motors as the LS2000 the 220 HP exciters had different motors. You can use a parts website like https://www.boats.net/ to cross reference parts. I have been casually looking for a spare motor also for parts also you wouldn't happen to be anywhere near Nebraska and want to sell one would you? Congratulations on the new boat you must not like money... hopefully your boat works out better then mine has.

 

[Enigma74]

Thanks for the heads up on starting a new thread Apologies for the confusion still fumbling around the site. So as far as the motors go that I bought I initially needed a exhaust cover mine had a Crack in it. His was a exciter 270 as well so it worked out on that. I'll have to send photos tomorrow of what happened maybe that gives a better understanding. But it sounds like you understand the chaos. Man I fixed one thing and turned around and it's more surprises but I'm up for the challenge neve wrecking at times but hey part of being a boat owner. Thanks for the congrats. I'm actually down in SC. Found the motors in Florida.

 

[piper84]

I have an LS 2000 cyl s pass compression ck new plugs installed. Fwd cylinder firing mid rear not makes rpm on land only 3000 in water. Looked at spark across plugs all three very minimal spark cranking on all three plugs. Any thoughts?

 

[the MfM]

I have an LS 2000 cyl s pass compression ck new plugs installed. Fwd cylinder firing mid rear not makes rpm on land only 3000 in water. Looked at spark across plugs all three very minimal spark cranking on all three plugs. Any thoughts?

If you’ve got spark and compression that leaves fuel. Each cylinder has its own carb and fuel pump.

 

[piper84]

I found plug wires from coils 2&3 cyl burned in to insulation and not making contact with plug end connection. Replaced coils and runs almost like new.

 

[piper84]

What would cause the Eng rubber exhaust pipe to blow open with an 8 “ split

 

[tdonoughue]

Age? Physical damage (like someone accidentally slit it partway with a knife)? Potato in the exhaust pipe?

 

[piper84]

This happened on the water after an hr. Run coming in to port. Eng sounded like it had headers our straight pipes on it and heavy exhaust fumes in Eng compartment.