Repower 2004 AR210 with MR-1 HO's

[84rzv500r]

nope its CorrosionX heavy duty... Salt water/salt air is your enemy... it stays kinda sticky , cleans up easy with brake clean... I have a plethora of anticorrosion and lube tricks... 80W-90 in the steering and shifter cables, TefGel in the bolts/connections up top, marine anti seize on everything below the waterline, permatex anti sieze on engine, CRC heavy duty corrosion inhibitor on exposed engines and all the aluminum under water and I use 316 stainless everywhere.. superlube PTFE spray and dielectric.. and a good WATERPROOF marine EP grease I lube the exposed cables and pump nozzels and such once a month with grease and CRC, your hands might dirty bout it all comes apart and doesn't corrode.. I use my boat nearly every day in the salt water... so maintenance stacks up... oil changes every couple months...

 

[84rzv500r]

I've been reading up on boat hull design and I see why I like the LS2000/AR210 hull.. it has a delta step and kinda pops out of the water around 40-45 MPH. No chines and a perimeter step. book says 18 degrees of deadrise.. so that does explain my pre-trim tab planing behavior too... the later 4 stroke boats went to a traditional Deep V hull with 20 degrees of deadrise for better ride and that also nipped the sliding turns in the bud.

 

[Robb235]

Let me finish first... so make sure I get it right... and I think your engines are closer together than mine...

My lift flanges are ~18.5 inches apart so i allowd 0.250 on each end for rubber and washers... I ordered the speedway motors 6061-T6 Swaged radius rod tube $15 LOL it has 3/8-24 Left and right threaded ends, 18" long pn 910-351-18... (they come 0.500" increments) then I got some 3/8-24 x 1.50 grade 8 hex head cap screws in RH and LH threads cause I didn't see anything stainless readily available... the grommets I had in my toolbox and I will go pick up another hand full tomorrow ay Kenny's Place in the Big Pine Flea Market... ill send them to you, the washers are just temp and I'll machine some out of 1/4" x 1" dia stainless fender washers cause I couldn't find any 3/8 fender washers with a 1" OD (so the grommet can't pull through). I planned on just using neoprene washers to compress to get the right squish.. I don't have a duometer so ill just guess... I like the way the grommet fits exactly in the lift tab.... it should keep the engines from excessive twisting... and if not ill run another link to the hull on one side... plate it and use a stainless heim joint and another short tube

Gotcha.

What would an indicator be that the stiffening rods are needed? Excessive vibration? I ask because I’ve taken my boat out now a handful of times with the MR1’s and no snubber pads, and I’ve not been alerted to needing anything more than what I already have. Would be curious what I need to pay more attention to, to see if I need to stiffen things up.

 

[84rzv500r]

well would speculate broken engine mounts and in the worst case accelerated coupler and mid bearing wear or noise ... the 2 strokes were terrible breaking engine mounts and tearing up mid bearing seals... I considered some hold down straps on them... these 4 strokes are WAY smoother so it may only be precautionary on my part however Yamaha engineers are very good and i suspect if the MR-1 pads under the engine weren't needed they wouldn't have put them there. I should have mine built and installed this week or next...

 

[84rzv500r]

Gotcha.

What would an indicator be that the stiffening rods are needed? Excessive vibration? I ask because I’ve taken my boat out now a handful of times with the MR1’s and no snubber pads, and I’ve not been alerted to needing anything more than what I already have. Would be curious what I need to pay more attention to, to see if I need to stiffen things up.

ok here's the BOM for the tie rod:

$15 Speedway motors 6061-T6 Swaged radius rod tube 3/8-24 Left and right threaded ends, 18" long pn 910-351-18... (they come 0.500" increments) $10 2 each 3/8-24 x 1.50 grade 8 hex head cap screws in RH and LH
$ 1 4 x 3/8 x 1 stainless washers
$10 1 package qty 4 Energy Suspension 9.8.126R 3/8" shock tower bushings (polyurethane)
$26 total and 15 min to machine and install...
chucked them in the lathe and turned the collar down to 1.5mm high to fit the 3m thick steel...

 

[84rzv500r]

dressed out some more wires tonight... almost ready....

 

[84rzv500r]

and another 4.5 hours tonight ... Blower fan and Halon wired up and dressed off... also traced out my extra wires they are power and ground for the AUX Bilge pump makes sense... tomorrow I should finish the key switches and tach's then its ready to run..., that just leaves the port instrument panel lamps and power, and some LED indirect deck lighting and engine bay lighting...

 

[84rzv500r]

A wire harness that adds a wire from each ignition switch to wake up each computer, and wiring for the fire suppression system and bilge blower (that was stolen to run underwater LED lighting by the PO) the fire suppression and bilge fan (can be wired to interrupt the bilge fan not required for Gas engines when halon discharges) ... to keep from pumping the halon out of the engine bay... that's why I put the fan switch on the fire panel...

 

[84rzv500r]

today is crimp and dress day... getting closer...

 

[84rzv500r]

working my way to the front... checking connections and replacing pins and wires... salt water is a bitch
STBD engine is hooked to the boat harness. Working on PORT I had to start at the Weatherpack pins and build 2 more feet of harness to reach... not hard just takes time to ohm out every connections to prove they are good.. inspect pins and seals... found a couple of brown oxidized wires and white corroded pins..

 

[84rzv500r]

done wiring in engine bay... moving on to dash... hook up tachs, fire suppression charged/discharged indicator, bilge fan switch, and inst lamps. then its time to put this in the water and start breaking in the engines

 

[84rzv500r]

ok wired up the Tachs and all is well... i do have a problem with the white/black engine kill signal for each engine... the deadman switch fell apart....so i ordered a replacement... I can wire around it for testing... I dont have any ECU enunciated lights... and i'm not using no wake mode...

should be able to drop it in the water this weekend...

 

[Beachbummer]

On my boat the switch bypass wiring is doing nothing at all, you keep the wires apart and it runs, connect them and the boat shuts off.

 

[84rzv500r]

ive got 2 opens in key switch off port and stbd..... that is the black is not connected to the white... it worked before the repower... im guessing i disrupted something when I had the throttle/shifter assembly out 34768 times... trying to get the cables in the correct place... and when I started to pull the switch out... it just fell apart... I'll get to the bottom... pun intended...

 

[Robb235]

ive got 2 opens in key switch off port and stbd..... that is the black is not connected to the white... it worked before the repower... im guessing i disrupted something when I had the throttle/shifter assembly out 34768 times... trying to get the cables in the correct place... and when I started to pull the switch out... it just fell apart... I'll get to the bottom... pun intended...

Wait, what's the issue? You don't want black connected to white, unless the key is in the off position, or you've yanked the kill switch.

 

[84rzv500r]

Wait, what's the issue? You don't want black connected to white, unless the key is in the off position, or you've yanked the kill switch.

yep that's right but i have no connection between the black and white in the off position where the boat harness presents to the engine harness... so engines start fine but no kill -9 signal... either engine... Ill run new wires if i have to

 

[Robb235]

yep that's right but i have no connection between the black and white in the off position where the boat harness presents to the engine harness... so engines start fine but no kill -9 signal... either engine... Ill run new wires if i have to

Oohhh I gotcha. So an issue with the key switches or a break in one of the wires somewhere? Seems odd that it's happening to both engines.

 

[84rzv500r]

key switches test good and ecu cuts engine at the engine harness... i pretty sure its the deadman switch... i'll pull it tonight and verify

 

[Beachbummer]

Key switch connects other 2 wires to kill engine too. It should NOT be the deadman switch, that one should kill the engine independent of the key switch. That's weird. let us know what you find!

 

[84rzv500r]

Key switch connects other 2 wires to kill engine too. It should NOT be the deadman switch, that one should kill the engine independent of the key switch. That's weird. let us know what you find!

thats not the way the 2003-2005 ar210 appears to be wired... its an OR condition 4 wires 2 for each engine think of it as a railroad track... the key switch OR the deadman can kill the engine laying a pipe across the tracks... a similar AND setup works for the starter solenoid brown wire key switch in that the neutral switch and decklid all have to be engaged (complete circuit) to allow the starter relay to activate via the key switch.