Repower 2004 AR210 with MR-1 HO's

[84rzv500r]

PO hacked up the boat harness a bit... all straightened out... Will double check the keyswitch and power and integrate the boat harness to the engine harness,... and get this if the harness wasn't hacked up a bit you could have just plugged the two harnesses together !!! and you get start/stop, the only different presentation is the G & B for the tachs have plug connectors not sumitomos on them and you have to provide keyswitch 12V to light the ECU and Main relay as the 2 strokes in the AR210 didnt have this I'll just splice on new connectors w/ correct lengths to dress out the harness.

Adjusted stbd TPS to 0.547~0.562V and both Idles to ~1600 RPM...
Dressed off the fuel pump wires.
Oil pressure on each engine looks good ~22PSI at 1600 RPM and ~55 PSI at ~5000 RPM warm...
These engines are SOOOOOOOO much smoother and quieter than 2 strokes... and they start instantly
Fuel press sending units arrived yesterday but the stewart-warners are on backorder

once i get the key switches in im gonna call the repower complete... I have an idea for using the guts of the MFD to light the TEMP, OIL, and SEL lamps on the tach...

 

[84rzv500r]

just a few more wires to cleanup and a circuit for the Halon Discharge indicator light... since i stole the bilge fan switch for underwater lights im moving the bilge fan switch to the fire suppression panel in the dash... getting cleaner...

 

[84rzv500r]

ok one last engine trick... gonna make a 3/4 6061-t6 tubular tie bar between the oil tanks to couple the engines together rubber isolated of course... pics soon...

 

[Babin Farms]

ok one last engine trick... gonna make a 3/4 6061-t6 tubular tie bar between the oil tanks to couple the engines together rubber isolated of course... pics soon...

What's your reasoning for this? Extra support?

 

[84rzv500r]

What's your reasoning for this? Extra support?

yes. file it under i have been hotrodding stuff for a long long time and my engineering gut tells me that this is a cheap and easy solution to a problem that could happen... there is a natural resonance in the engine mounts at trolling speed that this should damp (and my study of the ECU histograms says that i will be spending a fair amount of time at trolling speed) I dont have the snubbers under the oil pan... and I will be able to tie the engines together and that should help... i can also tie the outside of the oil tanks back to the inner hull structure with this method if needed... on the high RPM side i have also been known to jump a wake once in a while so its just a precaution

 

[84rzv500r]

the isolators will be on each end of the Tube for the center section between the engines for the links to the hull prolly use a heim joint and one isolator to allow for preload...

 

[Babin Farms]

I know that your boat wasn't designed for the MR1 but if you are using the original motor mounts I think you should be fine as long as your hull subframe is beefed up enough. In the 4hr beating my boat took getting to Bimini last summer I didn't have an issue with mounts. (lost track of how many times we were totally out of the water) I understand what your trying to do but I think I would wait to see how things go before coupling them together.

 

[84rzv500r]

I know that your boat wasn't designed for the MR1 but if you are using the original motor mounts I think you should be fine as long as your hull subframe is beefed up enough. In the 4hr beating my boat took getting to Bimini last summer I didn't have an issue with mounts. (lost track of how many times we were totally out of the water) I understand what your trying to do but I think I would wait to see how things go before coupling them together.

understood. im using the 4 original engine mounts and I added and third cross tie box bonded to the hull and engine subframe.. yes but you have two additional damping pads under the engine oil pan that I don't have in my set up. $25-30 in parts... its worth having it on the shelf for the sea trials

 

[Beachbummer]

My only fear is how well attached is the cooler to the engine. Be sure the strength there is as expected. I don't know how it's attached.

 

[84rzv500r]

My only fear is how well attached is the cooler to the engine. Be sure the strength there is as expected. I don't know how it's attached.

i think the cooler and mounts are plenty strong enough. Its where you lift the engine from... and I'm setting it up where the lift tabs will bend before it breaks the case... remember its just a vibration damper not a structural member...

 

[84rzv500r]

YDS connector socket for Dust cover...

 

[84rzv500r]

im a slacker... i didn't work on the boat last night... took the Sportster out to watch the sunset...

 

[Scottintexas]

amazing, don't know how I missed this thread, thanks for sharing your experience and all the pictures, can't wait for more updates!

 

[84rzv500r]

got the throttles sorted out!!! what I thought was gonna be bolt up and adjust turned out to be 4 1/2 hour project.. the 2006 AR210 throttle cables were correct length overall but cable sleeve was too short... So I took a SWAG at it and came up with these after a little bit of noodling... slip over the cable, bolt in the cable slot on the throttle body and extend the sleeve a maybe 25-30mm (I'll get the specs when I build the final pieces out of stainless hex stock that will be a threaded sleeve that does the same thing only threads on not slips on). I rummaged through the scrap pile and pulled out the old AR210 cables out cut off these ends, chucked them in the lathe and cleaned them up to fit the ends of the ar230 cables (not enough material to thread tho)

anyway with a little adjusting the throttle has the same range of motion of the original AR210 throttle (minus about 0.125") and I'll adjust the throttle stop to keep from hurting anything... just a smidge of slack off idle and Verified WFO operation...

 

[84rzv500r]

sneak peak at tie bar prototype (since i didn't have a place for pads under the oil pan)...

 

[Robb235]

I may have to copy this idea. I don’t have the snubbers either. Where did you source those tie bars and rubber isolators from?

 

[84rzv500r]

I may have to copy this idea. I don’t have the snubbers either. Where did you source those tie bars and rubber isolators from?

Let me finish first... so make sure I get it right... and I think your engines are closer together than mine...

My lift flanges are ~18.5 inches apart so i allowd 0.250 on each end for rubber and washers... I ordered the speedway motors 6061-T6 Swaged radius rod tube $15 LOL it has 3/8-24 Left and right threaded ends, 18" long pn 910-351-18... (they come 0.500" increments) then I got some 3/8-24 x 1.50 grade 8 hex head cap screws in RH and LH threads cause I didn't see anything stainless readily available... the grommets I had in my toolbox and I will go pick up another hand full tomorrow ay Kenny's Place in the Big Pine Flea Market... ill send them to you, the washers are just temp and I'll machine some out of 1/4" x 1" dia stainless fender washers cause I couldn't find any 3/8 fender washers with a 1" OD (so the grommet can't pull through). I planned on just using neoprene washers to compress to get the right squish.. I don't have a duometer so ill just guess... I like the way the grommet fits exactly in the lift tab.... it should keep the engines from excessive twisting... and if not ill run another link to the hull on one side... plate it and use a stainless heim joint and another short tube

 

[84rzv500r]

finished up the throttle cables and lever assembly all adjusted... same travel as before. verified idle and WFO

 

[84rzv500r]

ok dressed all the boat harness off.. ran new feeds for the Main (radios,auto bilge, NAV, cockpit & underwater lights horn) and AUX (radar,Docking spots and floods, and big Bilge pumps) accessory buss... down to just the port and starboard engine harnesses... Im gonna make new female 6 pins for the weather packs and integrate into the engine harnesses (tested all this with jumpers and its just a matter of making it serviceable and pretty). Also gonna use weather pack connectors to bring back the yellow ECU wake wire from each key switch and we then have a runner... minor details hooking up tachs and inst lamps, three pins on the fuel sender, and make the connections for the bilge blower and halon discharge indicator... getting close...

 

[suke]

finished up the throttle cables and lever assembly all adjusted... same travel as before. verified idle and WFO

View attachment 176815

Woah! What's all that goo? Lube? Does it drip and make a mess everywhere?