Repower 2004 AR210 with MR-1 HO's

[84rzv500r]

Broken or disconnected wires inside the hull in the harness is what Im trying to say on or about the deadman switch,

 

[84rzv500r]

jumpered around the dead man switch and all is well (engines start run and stop as expected with the key switch )?? , well except for the deadman switch... if i can believe boats.net i should have a new one tomorrow ?...starboard fuel pressure regulator needs 10 more PSI dialed in., port is perfect... 1600RPM idle on both tachs..

ill finish up the wiring for the fire suppression and bilge fan now then on to port console and wire up the Gauges for power and instrument lamps...

on schedule for water test this weekend.... ???

 

[84rzv500r]

Checking the accessory switches... they are falling apart after 18 years... ordered all new...

 

[84rzv500r]

oh and I forgot to comment on my torque rod/vibration isolator bar... magic 8 ball says looks promising...

 

[84rzv500r]

got to hot to work yesterday... air was mid 90s and the water was mid 80's and the coors light was in the mid 30's... however I warmed up the engines again on the hose, set the Stbd fuel pressure regulator up to 48 lbs while running, Port was fine... It cleaned up an ever slight rough idle on the stbd engine.. I had a very small occasional drip out of the port engine exhaust at the first joint after the exhaust to head joint... quick inspection with mirror indicated no final torque mark on that bolt head... it was only torqued to the first stage so a quick tighten to the click snubbed the leak... Fuel pressure gauges not scheduled to arrive till august from stewart-warner... I did get most of the port console gauge wiring harness built and hooked up... just need some final connections and dress it off... Also my buddy came and picked up my good console dry storage hatch covers to pull molds and make me some fiberglass ones... More on that later... so I pulled these old frankenstein ones out of the junk pile... hit them with the DA sander and put a coat of truck bedliner on them... they will do for now...

 

[84rzv500r]

lol cant help but think this...

 

[84rzv500r]

didnt get the port steering cable replaced... did get all the circuits wired up and tested... just need to dress off the wires and thats done...

inst lamps all hooked up... this volt meter is hooked to the boat harness down stream of the batteries and it reads about 0.5V lower than digital meter on the battery buss bars and its really just a quick reference when underway... the digital meter on the buss bar has under and over voltage audible alarms... and though ya cant see it in the pic the meter has a red yellow Green multi segment LED bar on the perimeter that is animated and looks really cool LOL... the little green LED plugs into the fire panel annunciator and indicates that the system is charged... the electrical harnesses and the fuel pressure regulators are all plumbed for the fuel pressure gauges when they arrive...

all that remains is the steering cable and I can splash this sucker

 

[84rzv500r]

ok i splashed the MR-1 powered AR210... port engine runs perfect but the mid bearing seal is leaking so she's down on thrust... starboard engine is skipping when the power comes up... fouled plug, bad coil, bad connection or dirty injector... even so its gonna be a rocket... 5000 rpm with a touch of down tab was 32 MPH no wind on the GPS... I'll figure out which plug is bad and replace it... and if ive done my homework i should be able to pull the 8 engine mount bolts on the port side, slide the engine back on the rails and pull the three mid bearing bolts and swap the thing...

I got 45 min on it below 5000 rpm in the water... time to sort out the details and change the oil and filters no point in hammering on a engine that's skipping...

throttles are touchy... this thing is like NOW....

I'll post videos...

? ?

 

[84rzv500r]

splash the ar210

 

[Robb235]

ok i splashed the MR-1 powered AR210... port engine runs perfect but the mid bearing seal is leaking so she's down on thrust... starboard engine is skipping when the power comes up... fouled plug, bad coil, bad connection or dirty injector... even so its gonna be a rocket... 5000 rpm with a touch of down tab was 32 MPH no wind on the GPS... I'll figure out which plug is bad and replace it... and if ive done my homework i should be able to pull the 8 engine mount bolts on the port side, slide the engine back on the rails and pull the three mid bearing bolts and swap the thing...

I got 45 min on it below 5000 rpm in the water... time to sort out the details and change the oil and filters no point in hammering on a engine that's skipping...

throttles are touchy... this thing is like NOW....

I'll post videos...

? ?

I had the opposite problem. I had a cylinder missing at low RPM, but would come back to life at higher RPMs (was able to reach redline on the water). Replacing the spark plugs solved the issue. Apparently the MR1s are quite finicky about spark plugs.

 

[Robb235]

splash the ar210

Link isn't working for me...

 

[84rzv500r]

Link isn't working for me...

try it now... my fault

 

[Robb235]

Still no bueno.

 

[Scottintexas]

working for me, it's small window size though,,

 

[Scottintexas]

New video by Mark Hill

photos.app.goo.gl

 

[Robb235]

working for me, it's small window size though,,

I don't know, I can't open the link for some reason. Tried Chrome and Internet Explorer.

 

[84rzv500r]

survey says #4 plug on stbd engine has a problem... changing... standby...

 

[84rzv500r]

changed the oil and filter on both port and starboard MR-1's at 2 hours... went from 10w-40 to 20W-50 VR-1 to continue the breakin... ill keep the next 30 min under 8000 RPM and we should be good to go... couple of notes... the engines quieted right down with the 20w-50 and have 15-18 lbs of oil pressure at idle and 50 PSI at 5000 HOT... I road raced 1000cc yamaha FJ's FZ's, FZR's, and YZF's we would get them in the crates from yamaha... put them together fill them with 20W-50 VR-1 get a couple heat cycles on them and run them 500 miles on the street, dump the antifreeze, oil and filter and fill them up with Mobil 1 15W-50 or 20W-50, strip them down and safety wire them up, put dunlops or mitchies on, good brake pads, and stainless steel brake lines on them and go racing... 4-6 days a month, 2, 4, 6 hour endurance races whatever and NEVER had a VALVE adjustment or Engine failure.

also my sump sucker setup works great... i empty the tank and get 2.5 qt and then get another nearly 1.5 qt out of the sump...

4 qts back in with a filter and she's dead on the money on the dipstick..

I also ran down the skip on the port side... YDS active test says that STBD #4 was the bad cylinder and it was right pulled #3 and 4. three was clean and 4 was black and slightly damp... it was firing occasionally at idle and would cut in and out at 5000... I replaced the the plug and it was clean at idle but was still missing occasionally up to 5000... pulled a new coil form spares and replaced it and all seems well.. the coil ohms out in spec however i suspect it was breaking down under load which is typical for coils... also I had squirted some 10W-30 into every bore when I got the engines as I new they would be setting for a bit... I suspect the weak coil oil fouled the plug on initial startup.

 

[84rzv500r]

im calling my conversion done... I have 2 hours on the engines and no codes... the skip in the stbd engine appears to have been a bad plug/weak coil... Im down to regular maintenance Items now...

 

[gt5pilot]

im calling my conversion done... I have 2 hours on the engines and no codes... the skip in the stbd engine appears to have been a bad plug/weak coil... Im down to regular maintenance Items now...

This has been an epic journey mate, I have enjoyed reading this from the beginning to present.

Your journey reminds me of my DOHC engine/transmission and ECU swap from an Integra into a 1st generation CRX!