Shaking tower-help with solution

[Speedling]

Basically, i reinforced the back of the fiberglass but the hull is curved. There really isn't any spots where it isn't on my boat. I noticed that the 240 series has some great flatter areas for it.
Anyways, although secure, the tower rocks back and forth on the boat hull.
Any ideas on how to "shim" this into a curve?

 

[TheGreekTitan]

Not my idea, but I recall someone using a polypropylene cutting board. They did not use it for your exact application, but may do the trick.

It was on this board where I saw the idea, and thought it was really smart. Maybe it was for adding cleats?

 

[bumpy]

It might be worth trying multiple thin layers of stainless steel or aluminum sheet, each flexible enough to bend on its' own, similar to a leaf spring. Build up to desired backing plate thickness.

Edit: I think you were asking about the outside on the hull, not the inside. Shaping a polymer board as @TheGreekTitan said might work well for that!

 

[Mainah]

Check out this link for the curved rubber feet.
www.aerialwakeboarding.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BT-CURVEDPAD


When I installed an aftermarket tower on my last boat it came with the curved rubber as well as flat. I used the curved rubber in the outside and it was great. I would stick with rubber to absorb vibrations as other materials could cause chaffing. For the inside I made my own 4" x 6" 1/8 inch think aluminum plates (all edges rounded off) then stacked the plates the flat rubber and then thick aluminum washers it came with and used compression lock nuts instead of the plastic ring kind. The aluminum plate coutured to the inside of the hull when I torqued it down.

 

[Speedling]

Check out this link for the curved rubber feet.
www.aerialwakeboarding.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=BT-CURVEDPAD


When I installed an aftermarket tower on my last boat it came with the curved rubber as well as flat. I used the curved rubber in the outside and it was great. I would stick with rubber to absorb vibrations as other materials could cause chaffing. For the inside I made my own 4" x 6" 1/8 inch think aluminum plates (all edges rounded off) then stacked the plates the flat rubber and then thick aluminum washers it came with and used compression lock nuts instead of the plastic ring kind. The aluminum plate coutured to the inside of the hull when I torqued it down.

For every tower but mine of course

 

[Mainah]

@Speedling - Ahh looks like you have the top end free ride. Very nice tower btw. Murphy was not very nice to you though. In that case perhaps you could use the rubber from one of those door mats with the think rubber bottom and contour it somehow. Perhaps cut and layer up a piece of silicone exhaust hose. Maybe even get a silicone mold making kit to make some truly custom silicone pads. The inside is just as important of course but I know you said you already took care of reinforcing that. Did you go with the fiberglass method to create a flat surface inside or something similar to what I did? Already mentioned but the nuts that came with mine stock were crap. I certainly recommend stainless high strength grade compression lock nuts if what you got was anything like mine.

Good luck.

 

[djetok]

Not to take it off course but, does your factory top still work with that free ride tower? @Speedling

 

[Speedling]

@Speedling - Ahh looks like you have the top end free ride. Very nice tower btw. Murphy was not very nice to you though. In that case perhaps you could use the rubber from one of those door mats with the think rubber bottom and contour it somehow. Perhaps cut and layer up a piece of silicone exhaust hose. Maybe even get a silicone mold making kit to make some truly custom silicone pads. The inside is just as important of course but I know you said you already took care of reinforcing that. Did you go with the fiberglass method to create a flat surface inside or something similar to what I did? Already mentioned but the nuts that came with mine stock were crap. I certainly recommend stainless high strength grade compression lock nuts if what you got was anything like mine.

Good luck.

I layered fiberglass and plywood.
Then it all got a thick layer of epoxy. In fact i am worried about trying to take the thi g back off!

 

[Speedling]

Not to take it off course but, does your factory top still work with that free ride tower? @Speedling

Yes and no. The bimini fits underneath like in my signature. However i can't just fold it back. I have to un bolt it and drag it back a foot then fold or unfold it then reattach.
Ordered the aerial bimini to match. Should be a few days. Or weeks. Or months. Depends on when they feel like it. Been waiting on a replacement bolt for 8 month's.

 

[Mainah]

@Speedling - As you well know with the amount of work you put in the inside is certainly up to snuff. Sounds like I took the easy way out compared to that. Would love to see what you come up with for the outside.

 

[Speedling]

I was thinking at one point of making a curved aluminum shim to go between the mount and the rubber but now i am thinking of plastic so that there isn't metal on metal contact.

 

[djetok]

I was thinking at one point of making a curved aluminum shim to go between the mount and the rubber but now i am thinking of plastic so that there isn't metal on metal contact.

Why not use like a bicycle tire tube? It would flex and absorb the bounce