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Need Advice, Beached boat.... 2020 195 Impeller Removal

Just park your truck on the wrench that is holding the end of the shaft, get this operation on the ground where you can get on top of the wrench on the impeller, let gravity work with you / for you on this. Get a 4’ piece of pipe that will fit over the open end of the combo wrench to make this easier on you.

A vise that size isn’t meant for the kind of incredible torque you are putting on it, you’d need an 8 or 10” super heavy duty vise for that. Unless your vise is mounted to a steel table the next thing to fail will be your bench top.

After you get this broken free the first time if won’t be this tough, when I do mine now I put one foot on the wrench holding the end of the shaft and then stomp on the wrench that is on the impeller.

View attachment 191256

That double box end wrench on the left holds the spline tool, and the 27mm combo wrench goes on the impeller itself. Get some card board and lay it down to work on. That large adjustable end wrench you see in the picture is for the Skat Trak adapter or the Solas in case you were wondering.

Maybe a stupid question, but how exactly would I park the truck on the wrench holding the spline tool? That wrench isn't going to be laying flat if it's holding the spline tool.
 
Have someone help you, just roll up to the wrench then slightly on to it while its vertical and attached to the spline tool, you just need it to be secure while you break the impeller loose with that cheater bar. You could put a 2x4 / 4x4 piece of wood on either side of the wrench then roll up onto the blocks so that the tire captures the wrench under it.

The main thing is getting this operation on the floor of the shop / garage so you can use your weight to push down on the wrench that is on the impeller, you will have a lot more control that way so when it breaks free you don’t end up on your back on the floor.
 
I bought all the wrenches I could find a few years ago when replacing my impellers. Also broke my vice, tried heating, etc. i finally broke down and took the assembly to a pwc repair shop. The 18 year old working there was able to break the impeller free with a box wrench and a 4 to 6 foot cheater bar in less than 3 downward pulls. Best $60 (I.e., $30 per impeller) I’ve ever spent. My only regret is not taking it to a shop first (before I bought wrenches, broke my vice and burned hours and calories trying to do it myself).
 
I bought all the wrenches I could find a few years ago when replacing my impellers. Also broke my vice, tried heating, etc. i finally broke down and took the assembly to a pwc repair shop. The 18 year old working there was able to break the impeller free with a box wrench and a 4 to 6 foot cheater bar in less than 3 downward pulls. Best $60 (I.e., $30 per impeller) I’ve ever spent. My only regret is not taking it to a shop first (before I bought wrenches, broke my vice and burned hours and calories trying to do it myself).

I did the same. Worth every penny not to mess with it. He made quick work of it. What took him a long time was replacing the wear ring, and by long-time I mean he couldn't do it in the 5 minutes I came by the shop. He was done later in the day.
 
Maybe a stupid question, but how exactly would I park the truck on the wrench holding the spline tool? That wrench isn't going to be laying flat if it's holding the spline tool.

 
I think you are supposed to park the vehicle next (not directly on top of) to the housing so that it won’t move when you take a wrench to the front of the impeller. The shaft should be proped up so that it is parallel to the ground and wrench should be put on the end of the shaft to keep it from rotating when you try and remove the impeller (the end of the wrench should be against the ground. I would probably use two vehicles in this situation, one on each side of the assembly and facing each other.
 
Jeebus- in the Air Force we’d call that “gorilla torque” among other 4 letter words as well! Right up there with Paula Deen’s “just a little bit of butter”. What’s the torque value? A few hundred foot pounds?

When the shaft spins in spins the reverse threaded impeller on. When it sucked in rocks the engine torqued it even more.
 
@YamaHog, I was able to get one of mine off with an impact. I took the other to a local transmission shop who had a big vice and a cheater bar. I broke the pass thru ratchet but it was Craftsman so it was a free replacement.

@swatski has likely removed the most impellers of any of us.

Did you find a high point on Lake Hamilton?

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When the shaft spins in spins the reverse threaded impeller on. When it sucked in rocks the engine torqued it even more.
One of my favorite pastimes has become browsing this site with a glass of whiskey to unwind - drunk me from a few days ago thanks you for the explanation!
 
@YamaHog, I was able to get one of mine off with an impact. I took the other to a local transmission shop who had a big vice and a cheater bar. I broke the pass thru ratchet but it was Craftsman so it was a free replacement.

@swatski has likely removed the most impellers of any of us.

Did you find a high point on Lake Hamilton?

View attachment 191318

@Bruce,

It actually happened on Lake Maumelle. Went out there to check the oil level on the water after changing my oil and spark plugs and get in one last run for the season. It's a really beautiful lake with low boat traffic since it's a reservoir and no swimming or watersports are allowed there, only fishing and recreational boating. The water level was down about 6 or so feet already since they are dropping it down to weed out the invasive hydrilla. Apparently, that was enough to get me in trouble on the north shore. There's a shallow muddy point that juts out there, but I was watching my Navionics map AND the depth finder on the Connext and I was still a good ways off-shore and the noted shallow areas.......the depth finder was still reading like 15 ft just as I ran aground on the muddy shoal. Below is map with the scene of the incident marked. The highlighted areas in yellow near that are the noted shallow areas on the maps.

I'm on the hunt for a Cheater pipe now to try on the prop.......which seems to be more difficult to find than expected....
 

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@YamaHog, have you looked at steel pipe at a hardware store?

A chain link fence post could be a good option.

That is what I used with pipe wrench. Gives plenty of leverage
 
Thank you to everybody for your suggestions and help! It appears I have lost the battle with this thing. I think I'm just going to take the pump into a local shop and let them deal with removing the impeller.

I parked my truck over a wrench holding the spline tool in between two 2 x 6's to keep the shaft from turning and then put the 27 mm box wrench on the prop with a 6 ft piece of galvanized fence post. Even with all of that leverage it still wouldn't budge (yes I was turning clockwise since it's reverse threaded). Also tried with a pipe wrench + cheater and no luck there either.

Not sure what I should expect to pay to have the new prop installed and wear ring replaced at a shop. The pump is already obviously pulled and I already have all the parts needed (new Solas Prop & new OEM wear ring). Some shops don't want the partial job or don't like that you aren't buying the parts from them.
 
Sorry to here about troubles. May be let it soak with PB, try heating it up. May be someone local will chime in.

Drive to different machine metal shops around your DD. Most will never know what you are talking doing but some may offer to try if they aren't busy and may cost you nothing if they succeed. Method has worked for me with other things.
Otherwise, any jet ski shop/mechanic shop should be able to get it off.
Dealer last resort for me.

Price to get impeller off depends but a $20 tip to anyone who tried and was able to $50-75 flat rate from jet ski mechanic is normal around here. Otherwise it goes to Yamaha for shop rate over $100+.

Don't pay more to finish what is left. Remove the other four or five bolts holding liner to pump. You may need small pry bars or you can tie it off to anchor and use a comealong/ratchet strap to pull it off.
Finding/ordering parts should be next on the to do after get old impeller off.

You have done all the work already, keep it going
GL!
 
for the removal it doesnt have to be a marine shop, just go to any repair shop, boat or auto or trucks and they should be able to help you. I would be watching so that they dont torch it too long if they end up heating it. I never done it but installation looks easy, i would just pay to remove impeller.

Edit: also tell them thread direction
 
Thank you to everybody for your suggestions and help! It appears I have lost the battle with this thing. I think I'm just going to take the pump into a local shop and let them deal with removing the impeller.

I parked my truck over a wrench holding the spline tool in between two 2 x 6's to keep the shaft from turning and then put the 27 mm box wrench on the prop with a 6 ft piece of galvanized fence post. Even with all of that leverage it still wouldn't budge (yes I was turning clockwise since it's reverse threaded). Also tried with a pipe wrench + cheater and no luck there either.

Not sure what I should expect to pay to have the new prop installed and wear ring replaced at a shop. The pump is already obviously pulled and I already have all the parts needed (new Solas Prop & new OEM wear ring). Some shops don't want the partial job or don't like that you aren't buying the parts from them.
now you understand why I told you what I told you I could design a special tool for that someday
 
yep some times it takes the hot wrench and a big piece of pipe...

this is my pipe there are many like it but this one is mine..
 

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So long story short, my last outing of the season 2 weekends ago did not go as planned. My dad & I went out on a local lake/reservoir so I could check the oil level on the water and run the boat one last time before storing for winter. They are dropping the level of this lake to remove hydrilla but we're pretty familiar with the lake and I know where the shallow areas are from my Navionics maps. Unfortunately, I ended up beaching my boat on a muddy/gravelly point at about 10 -15 mph ( a very good ways off shore). Luckily there were no big rocks and no fiberglass damage to the boat, just some nasty scratching down the keel from where we tried to rock the boat free. Some nice people from the Marina and fisherman finally got us pulled out of the mud and towed back in after being stranded out there for about 3 hrs total (sucked up rocks in the impeller).

I pulled the jet pump off and quickly discovered I needed a new impeller. So I have a new Solas impeller to install since apparently it takes over 6 months to get a Yamaha branded impeller. Since I'm replacing the impeller and sucked up rocks, I ordered a new Yamaha branded wear ring as well to replace it while I'm in there. Now on to the fun....

I know the impeller is reverse threaded and have been following Hoyt's thread here for tips (https://jetboaters.net/threads/2019-yamaha-195-impeller-replacement.37855/). However, I cannot for the life of me get the impeller to break free to remove it. I have the special tool from Solas that goes on the splines of the driveshaft to hold it in a 4 1/2 in Vise on my workbench. I've tried hitting a wrench with a rubber mallet to no avail, and I just bought a 5 lb sledge hammer and tried hitting a pipe wrench with that. This thing WILL NOT budge! I've tried putting all of my weight on the pipe wrench handle as well. Still will not move! I have to keep checking the Vise to ensure it's staying tight on the other end. At this point I'm pretty frustrated and at a loss at what to try next.

Would it be safe to try heating up the driveshaft/impeller with a heat gun? Any ideas or suggestions are much appreciated. I have to get this thing off to install the new one, and at the same time I'm hoping I don't rip the top off my workbench. Below are some pics of the damage and my attempt to remove the impeller.

As far as the scratching on the hull, I've started to do a little bit of wet sanding on it, but it's going to take forever by hand, and I'm not sure how well I'll be able to polish it laying on my back under the boat.....that should be "fun"......but for now I've got to get the new impeller and wear ring installed and jet pump re-assembled and back on the boat. Since I couldn't start it up after the incident, I wasn't able to flush the engine so I want to be able to run it for a bit on the hose as soon as possible in case theirs any dirt/mud in the cooling lines.
I know this sounds crazy. Find away to use heat that will not melt anything. And cold on the side frozed up.one sidewill expand the other contract. But have it in a position to break free at that percise time.
I used cold freon and heat gun on somethi n g simular it broke free like a charm. Unless u have arock jammed in there.
 
It's been pretty crazy over the holidays, but I definitely wanted to come back and update this thread! I was able to get everything sorted finally! Thanks again for everybody's advice and suggestions here. I learned a lot in this process.

I ended up calling a local Marine shop that has been around for years (Art's Marine in North Little Rock, AR). Years back they worked on an outboard motor for me and were always super friendly and helpful. They don't work on jet pumps, but I explained my issue and they immediately gave me a number of a local mechanic that has a shop at his house and works on Wave Runners, Dirt Bikes, etc. in his free time. He was only about 20 mins away from me and was a great guy to deal with. I dropped off the pump with him and I had it back with the impeller off within 24 hrs!

He said he didn't have to heat it up or anything but it took a VERY long cheater bar and a quick motion to free it. He estimated it had something crazy like 600 lbs of torque on it! After he got it removed he inspected the drive shaft for any stress fractures or warping and all looked good. He also removed the cone and checked the grease and bearings. He was going to put the new impeller on as well, but when checking the clearance with the wear ring, he confirmed that the wear ring would have to be replaced and he didn't have the tool to remove the old one. All in all he only charged me $45 for the removal and I picked everything back up.

He agreed I could try the dry ice trick to remove the old wear ring, and freeze the new one for installation. So with every thing back at my house and the new Yamaha wear ring in the freezer overnight, I picked up 5lbs of dry ice and packed the wear ring/housing. I could hear the and see the old wear ring contract some, but even after about 1/2 hr and multiple attempts to pulled it out with a pair of vice grips, it would still not budge! Lucky me! I ended up using a battery powered Dremel tool with several cutting wheels to cut the old wear ring through and then pull it out with vice grips. (took a few charges on the Dremel battery!) I would have loved to have had a grinding wheel handy for this step.

Once the old wear ring was removed, I cleaned every thing up good on housing and put a couple small thin lines of grease to help the new ring slide in easier. Took the new wear ring out of the freezer, quickly lined up the notch and tapped the new ring into place with a rubber mallet. Once that completed I applied some white thread sealant to threads on the drive shaft, and threaded the new Solas impeller on and tightened with a wrench. The mechanic that removed the old impeller told me to just get the new impeller tightened as much as I could by hand with a wrench and not to be concerned with torqueing it to the specs in the manual as it's reversed threaded anyway and will tighten further when spinning from the engine torque.

I then cleaned off all the old gasket maker/sealant applied new gasket maker and re-installed the jet pump. I did apply new Yamaha Molybendum grease to the splines of the driveshaft before re-installing. I'll re-iterate to be very careful when tightening the bolts down, particularly the 5th small bolt on the left side of the housing......I only tightened it by hand after applying thread sealant and the small one snapped on me! I had to pick up some bolt extractor bits to safely remove it and replace with a new bolt the same size. Luckily, the extractor bit made quick work of removing the snapped bolt.

While I had everything apart and was under the boat, I noticed that factory didn't do the best job with silicone when sealing the intake grate. One side had a pretty messed bead of excess silicone, so I carefully resealed with new black silicone, making sure everything was as smooth as possible with no gaps of missing silicone. Cleaned up any excess silicone with Q-tips and acetone.

Once everything was re-assembled and I allowed a few days to ensure the gasket maker was fully cured, I hooked the boat up to the hose in the driveway and ran it for about 10 mins. It started up and ran fine, and all water that came out of the pissers was totally clear. I won't be able to test it on the water until May, but everything appears to be back in good mechanical order.

Now I will move on to cleaning up the surface scratching on my keel! :) Luckily, there was no damage into the fiberglass, a few scratches are too deep to just wet sand out. A spectrum patch paste kit or two should do the trick followed by a wet sand and polish.

Below are some pictures from the different stages of the process.

Intake Grate with messy/missing silicone from factory

intake_grate_shitty_sealant.jpg

Resealed Intake Grate (all black silicone is smooth with the intake grate surfaces)

resealed_intake_grate_full.jpg

resealed_intake_grate_side.jpg

Old Wear Ring Cut Out with Damaged factory impeller removed

old_impeller_removed.jpg

wear_ring_removed.jpg


New Solas Impeller Installed

new_impeller_installed.jpg


Fun with the Jet Pump Housing snapped bolt

snapped_bolt.jpg

snapped_bolt_2.jpg
 
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