Starboard engine slow crank

[FLJetBoater]

I stand corrected. I would have expected some effect to running also, but it sure sounds like the pump may be a factor.

Looking at impeller housings


66V-51312-01-94

Or

6CR-R1312-00-00

Seems the former was replaced with the latter. But boats.net still shows the first one as the part. Yamahasportsplaza shows the 2nd one as replacing the first one. Anyone know the difference? I’m assuming I should order the 2nd one?

 

[Beachbummer]

Buy After Market, or from someone that has one on hand. Yamaha is behind on that part until December.

 

[FLJetBoater]

So I got the boat pulled and did some tests tonight.
Battery voltage was showing 12.8 after starting a couple of times....

Found the starter positive connection, a bit difficult to get to but not impossible.

during cranking....

positive wire to starter pos , neg wire to battery neg - 10.3-10.5
Battery voltage 11.6-11.8
Neg wire to engine bolt, pos wire to batt 11v

this last test, is that indicating an issue with the ground? From my understanding this should significantly lower (like .3-.5)

also, I noticed if I turn on the emerg parallel the engine starts much easier.

 

[Dixemon]

Those are DC voltage readings? You wouldn't want to take an OHM reading of that positive wire while it's connected. You'll fry the meter. Disconnect the leads from the battery and do a resistance check (OHM), from the neg lead all the way down to the starter, do this also with the pos lead. A good wire will be less than .5 ohm.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Those are DC voltage readings? You wouldn't want to take an OHM reading of that positive wire while it's connected. You'll fry the meter. Disconnect the leads from the battery and do a resistance check (OHM), from the neg lead all the way down to the starter, do this also with the pos lead. A good wire will be less than .5 ohm.

Those were all DC voltage readings yes. I heard ohm readings weren’t great over thick battery cables? I can definitely check tomorrow though.

so ohm check from neg cable (disconnected) to starter (anywhere on starter body is good right?)

how do you check the pos side with the solenoid in the way? Just turn the key?

 

[Dixemon]

Just check it to the solenoid, your right about the larger cables, but at least you can get an idea if the cables are corroded. A lot of times the corrosion is under the shielding that you cannot see. It's good to know before you move on to other possibilities.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Just check it to the solenoid, your right about the larger cables, but at least you can get an idea if the cables are corroded. A lot of times the corrosion is under the shielding that you cannot see. It's good to know before you move on to other possibilities.

The solenoid is, so far, my least favorite part on this boat you either need go go gadget arms or a helper who doesn’t mind fiberglass shards in their arms and hands to get at it I’ll see if I can convince someone to give me a hand tomorrow and remove the box to get at it.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Just check it to the solenoid, your right about the larger cables, but at least you can get an idea if the cables are corroded. A lot of times the corrosion is under the shielding that you cannot see. It's good to know before you move on to other possibilities.

I traced the ground to the starter, but it's tucked way underneath and I couldn't reach it. I did test from various parts on the engine, as well as the engine mount ground between the 2 engines, back to both the negative terminals (one from each engine) at the battery (disconnected) and the meter was reading 0.3 to 0.5 ohms. I feel like if I absolutely need to test it directly on the starter ground, I'm going to have to dismantle some exhaust components to get at it.

 

[Beachbummer]

Did you crank the boat with the pump not on it?I thought you said it seemed the ring was much hotter as if the impeller was rubbing on the ring. Taking the pump off may be an easy diagnostic step.

 

[tdonoughue]

Yes, not sure why you are chasing down electrical if the ring is rubbing. Sounds like your ring his making it so that the shaft won't turn freely and slowing down the starter.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Did you crank the boat with the pump not on it?I thought you said it seemed the ring was much hotter as if the impeller was rubbing on the ring. Taking the pump off may be an easy diagnostic step.

Yes, not sure why you are chasing down electrical if the ring is rubbing. Sounds like your ring his making it so that the shaft won't turn freely and slowing down the starter.

That’s tomorrow’s job. Will let you know what I find.

 

[Dixemon]

Sound like what you have metered out reads good, I like the suggestions above to continue to isolate the problem. Good luck

 

[FLJetBoater]

Sound like what you have metered out reads good, I like the suggestions above to continue to isolate the problem. Good luck

So, pulled the pump - same behavior.

Attached, 1 image of the impeller housing.

video...
port engine first (impeller in), followed by stbd (impeller out). I pulled the lanyard so the engines wouldn't start but I tested after with it in briefly and both did start fine, stbd just very slow.

 

[Beachbummer]

If I try to watch the video it states the video is private.

 

[FLJetBoater]

If I try to watch the video it states the video is private.

sorry try now. forgot to publish it

 

[tdonoughue]

The wearing on the ring--is it all around or only on one part?

If on one part, pull the plugs and try to rotate the shaft. Maybe your intermediate bearing is going (which is causing the impeller to rub, but also causing extra load on the shaft turning). A working theory, presently...

 

[FLJetBoater]

The wearing on the ring--is it all around or only on one part?

If on one part, pull the plugs and try to rotate the shaft. Maybe your intermediate bearing is going (which is causing the impeller to rub, but also causing extra load on the shaft turning). A working theory, presently...

It’s fairly even around the whole ring....but it was slow cranking with the shaft out.

 

[dgfreeze]

These starters aren't very easy to access, but I'd be swapping the starter from the port motor over to the starboard motor. If it still cranks slow, you've eliminated that possibility, and if it cranks like it's supposed to, you just need to put a new starter on the port motor.

 

[Beachbummer]

A starter is not very expensive. If you bridge/bypass the solenoid and it still cranks slow, and the engine spins by hand with the plugs out, I would consider replacing the starter as the next troubleshooting step, vs swapping them out(which means you do the job twice)

 

[FLJetBoater]

These starters aren't very easy to access, but I'd be swapping the starter from the port motor over to the starboard motor. If it still cranks slow, you've eliminated that possibility, and if it cranks like it's supposed to, you just need to put a new starter on the port motor.

Thanks for the idea. Have you ever removed one on these boats? I'm curious whether I actually need to remove part of the exhaust, which means I'll need to order the gasket. I'm thinking if I remove #1 (ring clamp) and the 2 bottom bolts (#10 and #11), that should expose the starter and the only part I would need to buy is #13 as it's indicated as non-reuseable in the service manual. I haven't actually looked if that ring and bolts are accessible but it seems like they should be.