Starboard engine slow crank

[FLJetBoater]

I think the voltage to the solenoid travels through the hatch switch. Maybe the weak current was firing the solenoid weakly? I have not heard of that generally the solenoid either trips or not, but this is very interesting.

Very. So I just re-wired the harness portion of the ignition switch. The wires were twisted so much the brown wire had disconnected from the harness. I guess from the switch being slightly loose and continuously turned over the years. I imagine it was getting looser and looser for a while and finally gave way. If anyone knows what that specific wire does, might give some ideas what was failing.

Its still not to the power of the port engine starter, but definitely better.

 

[Beachbummer]

I don't recall which wire does which, but there are 4 wires. 2 block spark and keep the engine from firing. It's the same 2 wires that go to your lanyard switch. The other two keep the starter solenoid from engaging when the door is open, same circuit as the neutral safety switch.

So when the hatch door is open 2 things happen: engine cannot crank (as if fnr lever was not neutral) and engine shuts off and will have no spark. (As if lanyard was not installed)

 

[FLJetBoater]

Well, I think maybe the ignition swapping made it a touch better, or it was just in my head. Not sure but it’s been slow the last few times out so broke down and bought a new starter. Took the old one out today and it’s definitely seen better days on the outside anyway. The gear-like connection to the engine looks like it’s in great shape. Now time to throw the new one in.

I thought that the starter was just grounded to the engine through the bolts but there’s also a ground wire directly to the bottom starter bolt.

would it be ok to crank the engine with the lanyard out with the muffler disconnected from the engine? Just to see how it spins before I put it all back together.

 

[Beachbummer]

The starter has major spinning weight, and will twist hard when powered and not attached. I would test it, just secure it well (Maybe step on it while you have it shoved to the wall?) If I were you I'd like to see it "tick"before re-assembly just to make sure.

NEVER MIND, You planned to attach it already. I would crank a little, can't see the harm in it.

 

[FLJetBoater]

The starter has major spinning weight, and will twist hard when powered and not attached. I would test it, just secure it well (Maybe step on it while you have it shoved to the wall?) If I were you I'd like to see it "tick"before re-assembly just to make sure.

NEVER MIND, You planned to attach it already. I would crank a little, can't see the harm in it.

Ok cool. Thanks! Never taken a starter apart before, if there’s something wrong with it would it be easy to see? I’ll post some pics later as that’s an after-dark job I can do inside.

 

[Beachbummer]

Same as other brushed motors, big winding in the middle, and brushes and magnets around it. Usually you can swap brushes a few times before the whole inside (armature?) needs replacement from the wear of the brushes on the "commutator" (had to look it up commutator, it's the shiny part the brushes "brush" on)

https://www.howacarworks.com/illustration/71/inertia-system.png

 

[dgfreeze]

Good chance you'll be able to identify the issue if you have a basic understanding of how they work. As @Beachbummer said, there are brushes that ride on the commutator, it could be bad/worn/broken brushes, could be the commutator is badly worn/grooved, could be the windings came loose inside the housing and are dragging on the armature, but in my experience, what I've usually seen is a bad bearing that allows the armature to drag on the windings. Just my experience, and that's not with these Yammie starters, so hard telling. Either way, I'm curious as to what you find, so let us know if A: the new starter fixes it, and B: if you find anything wrong with the old one.

 

[Scottintexas]

and if you look on youtube or other sites about rebuilding a starter it really gives you a good guidance as most are basically the same,

I replaced the worn contacts on my Toyota for $3. and about an hours worth of work total,

 

[FLJetBoater]

Welp, new SBT starter in and it purrrrrrs.....
Forgot to pull the lanyard so that was a bit scary for a minute with the muffler off. Turned it right off though. Pulled lanyard and tested again....turned over rapid fire for about 5-7 seconds.

Will take the old one apart tonight and post some pics.

Woohoo! Starter replaced

 

[Beachbummer]

I've run a Rotax 717 (old seadoo 2cycle) with no muffler too so I can relate.It can get LOUD. Hope you were wearing your brown pants!!! (Just kidding, mostly )

 

[Sbrown]

Happy to hear you found the problem! I was wondering how it was going after the ignition swap.

 

[buckbuck]

Congratulations @FLJetBoater
Now dissect that old one and let us know what you find. It could be a big help to guys in the future.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Congratulations @FLJetBoater
Now dissect that old one and let us know what you find. It could be a big help to guys in the future.

I just did.....here’s a series of pics but man is it rusty in there. I’m not exactly sure what I’m looking at so if you want other pics let me know.

 

[Dixemon]

Looks like several of the brushes are hung up, that happens allot when it corrodes . Personally I wouldn't waste my time with that starter and I've rebuilt quite a few. Really glad you found your issue. I realize it wasn't an easy quest but I think you got alot of value from the fine members of this community. And I'm sure you learned alot about your boat in the process. Congrats!

 

[FLJetBoater]

Looks like several of the brushes are hung up, that happens allot when it corrodes . Personally I wouldn't waste my time with that starter and I've rebuilt quite a few. Really glad you found your issue. I realize it wasn't an easy quest but I think you got alot of value from the fine members of this community. And I'm sure you learned alot about your boat in the process. Congrats!

Definitely. Thanks to everyone on this thread who helped guide me on the electrical chasing and with all the other tips.

Ultimately if it wasn’t for the little video by SBT on changing a starter I’m not sure I would have tackled it on my own. That really helped to show the process to access the starter (removing muffler.) Once that’s done, it’s pretty easy going’s from there on out.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Better pic of Brushes

 

[FLJetBoater]

I was able to move 1 of the brushes and it started moving pretty easily, but the other one is really rusted in there. Moved it a bit but would need a good cleaning

 

[FLJetBoater]

My next question as I’m looking at all this corrosion and rust......how does it get so bad on the inside of a sealed unit?

 

[Dixemon]

The brush housings get contaminated from dust, arcing moisture ect. And the brushes fail to spring against the commutator. Over time those brushes no longer make contact resulting in well, what you experienced.

 

[FLJetBoater]

The brush housings get contaminated from dust, arcing moisture ect. And the brushes fail to spring against the commutator. Over time those brushes no longer make contact resulting in well, what you experienced.

Man...took the boat out tonight. That SBT starter spins like a monster. It's funny, the port one sounds slow now after getting used to the new SBT one. But the port one was night and day faster compared to the failing one.