Starboard engine slow crank

[FLJetBoater]

A starter is not very expensive. If you bridge/bypass the solenoid and it still cranks slow, and the engine spins by hand with the plugs out, I would consider replacing the starter as the next troubleshooting step, vs swapping them out(which means you do the job twice)

Looks like they're about $450 for OEM. Are the aftermarkets any good? starter link amazon is $86. SBT also has one for $228

 

[Beachbummer]

I bought a spare from RareElectrical for $67 shipped for my SX230. Have not used it, but did use their brand on another boat. one lasted about 4 years, the other was still good when I sold the boat (replaced both)

Hard to say, OEM is pretty good 12 years on mine and they are still good so for durability they are the way to go... It's tough because you are not certain that's the issue.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Thanks for the idea. Have you ever removed one on these boats? I'm curious whether I actually need to remove part of the exhaust, which means I'll need to order the gasket. I'm thinking if I remove #1 (ring clamp) and the 2 bottom bolts (#10 and #11), that should expose the starter and the only part I would need to buy is #13 as it's indicated as non-reuseable in the service manual. I haven't actually looked if that ring and bolts are accessible but it seems like they should be.

Well I just found a video of it online. Looks like you can just unbolt and pry back the exhaust manifold enough to get at it. Still need new exhaust gaskets

 

[FLJetBoater]

I bought a spare from RareElectrical for $67 shipped for my SX230. Have not used it, but did use their brand on another boat. one lasted about 4 years, the other was still good when I sold the boat (replaced both)

Hard to say, OEM is pretty good 12 years on mine and they are still good so for durability they are the way to go... It's tough because you are not certain that's the issue.

Yeah, I just picked up new plugs so I'll swap them this evening and see if I can turn the shaft with the plugs out.

 

[dgfreeze]

Thanks for the idea. Have you ever removed one on these boats? I'm curious whether I actually need to remove part of the exhaust, which means I'll need to order the gasket. I'm thinking if I remove #1 (ring clamp) and the 2 bottom bolts (#10 and #11), that should expose the starter and the only part I would need to buy is #13 as it's indicated as non-reuseable in the service manual. I haven't actually looked if that ring and bolts are accessible but it seems like they should be.

Glad you found the video, but I was fairly certain it was possible. I had looked into it briefly this spring, because my starter (solenoid) clicked a couple times before cranking. I looked into the starters and solenoids, but it didn't do it again all summer. I'd be more inclined to rebuilding an OEM (if possible) over a cheap ebay one. I'm a mechanic, and trust my work farther than communist labor. That said, I'm also cheap, so if it's not rebuildable, cheap commie crap does look fairly attractive...

 

[FLJetBoater]

Glad you found the video, but I was fairly certain it was possible. I had looked into it briefly this spring, because my starter (solenoid) clicked a couple times before cranking. I looked into the starters and solenoids, but it didn't do it again all summer. I'd be more inclined to rebuilding an OEM (if possible) over a cheap ebay one. I'm a mechanic, and trust my work farther than communist labor. That said, I'm also cheap, so if it's not rebuildable, cheap commie crap does look fairly attractive...

Yeah if that's what it's turning out to be I'll probably go with the SBT one and maybe rebuild the OEM one in the winter. I've never done it before, and don't expect to be able to do it quickly so I'd rather just buy a new one to get up and running if that's what it ends up being.

 

[jdkaeser]

You said you replaced the starter relay for "Another Issue." What was that issue? Also, does each engine have a separate starter relay? (I have a single engine so I don't know.) If so, can you swap the starter relays and see if the issue switches to the Port engine? Maybe the new relay is not as good as the stock one. Just a thought.

 

[FLJetBoater]

You said you replaced the starter relay for "Another Issue." What was that issue? Also, does each engine have a separate starter relay? (I have a single engine so I don't know.) If so, can you swap the starter relays and see if the issue switches to the Port engine? Maybe the new relay is not as good as the stock one. Just a thought.

The relay stopped working. Was getting a click but no start. So replaced the solenoid and it’s been fine since then. Yes the relay is separate in the electric box. It’s a huge huge hassle to get at but it may be the next thing I check.

 

[FLJetBoater]

A starter is not very expensive. If you bridge/bypass the solenoid and it still cranks slow, and the engine spins by hand with the plugs out, I would consider replacing the starter as the next troubleshooting step, vs swapping them out(which means you do the job twice)

Uhm so I have both sets of plugs out and I can’t turn either of the shafts. Am I missing something?

 

[tdonoughue]

Pump still out on the one engine? How are you trying to turn the shaft? Via the coupler?

 

[FLJetBoater]

Pump still out on the one engine? How are you trying to turn the shaft? Via the coupler?

No the pump was on but the spark plugs were out. I tried turning it through the clean out plug

 

[tdonoughue]

If the pump is rubbing the wear ring and the pump is in, there is probably no way you will be able to turn the engine (without tools, of course).

And if the one side is swollen and rubbing, likely the other side is too. So the swollen ring may not be the root of your slow start issue on the one engine--but it will be a separate issue that will need to be addressed (and is keeping you from rotating the engine and is likely making the slow starting problem worse).

 

[FLJetBoater]

If the pump is rubbing the wear ring and the pump is in, there is probably no way you will be able to turn the engine (without tools, of course).

And if the one side is swollen and rubbing, likely the other side is too. So the swollen ring may not be the root of your slow start issue on the one engine--but it will be a separate issue that will need to be addressed (and is keeping you from rotating the engine and is likely making the slow starting problem worse).

I dunno....I’m not convinced it’s the wear ring. Reason is that I CAN turn the stbd shaft maybe 2-3 degrees back and forth and I can always do that. If it was bound up tight I wouldn’t be able to do that. I’m not sure if the port ring is tight or not as I’ve never removed that one to check.

I do plan to replace the impellers and housings though as they seem pretty worn from the previous owner.

 

[FLJetBoater]

I put the boat in the water this morning to give it a run and test the new spark plugs. Port engine started no problem. Stbd motor turned over slowly as expected but gradually over about 5 seconds became slower and slower like the battery was dying. It shouldn't have been, it was charged and started port no problem. I turned off port, started it again and no problems. Then, I went and flipped the emerg parallel, started the stbd again and it was still cranking slow, but at least it stayed steady and started up.

I can't imagine why this would be. Both power cables to the engines come from the engine battery switch. Emerg parallel just connects the house switch to the engine switch. So, it's basically all the same cables being utilized whether it's just engine battery, or house + engine, except the cable from battery to engine switch, but that cable is clearly fine since the port engine starts right up.

 

[tdonoughue]

So I was looking through the thread... If connecting the batteries together has the same 'slow' starter issue, I am thinking we are down to either the starter or something gumming up the engine (like the wear ring). The resistance on the cables is checked; the cables are cleaned and reattached to the battery side. Using the same battery still results in slow start.

So I think starter is next.

 

[FLJetBoater]

So I was looking through the thread... If connecting the batteries together has the same 'slow' starter issue, I am thinking we are down to either the starter or something gumming up the engine (like the wear ring). The resistance on the cables is checked; the cables are cleaned and reattached to the battery side. Using the same battery still results in slow start.

So I think starter is next.

Yeah, starter, exhaust manifold gasket, impeller housing and impeller all on order.

I’m hoping it’s as easy as the SBT video on changing the starter, just unbolting and pulling back the exhaust manifold enough to reach it. Anyone have experience changing the starter on these boats?

I’m still baffled as to why paralleling the batteries would offer better starting (still slow but not as slow) on the 1 engine but the port engine starts fine with just the 1 battery. Starter binding but little bit of extra power from 2nd battery? Maybe not as much voltage drop?

 

[tdonoughue]

Could even be a short in the windings, making the motor weak. Hard to tell...

 

[dgfreeze]

My guess would be the extra amperage of the second battery helps the injured starter do its job. I’m a mechanic, not an electrician, so when it comes to that side of things, I generally take the stance of keeping my mouth shut, and letting people think I’m an idiot, as opposed to opening it, and erasing any doubt. That said, I’ve dealt with my share of “sluggish” starters, and consider it a very realistic possibility for your problems.

 

[FLJetBoater]

My guess would be the extra amperage of the second battery helps the injured starter do its job. I’m a mechanic, not an electrician, so when it comes to that side of things, I generally take the stance of keeping my mouth shut, and letting people think I’m an idiot, as opposed to opening it, and erasing any doubt. That said, I’ve dealt with my share of “sluggish” starters, and consider it a very realistic possibility for your problems.

That’s what I was potentially thinking. May even throw the amp clamp on it tomorrow to see if there’s any difference in amperage between the port and stbd cables to the starter.

 

[Sbrown]

You would be better off to do a voltage drop test on the positive cable from the battery to the starter and also across the ground. Resistance testing these wires by doing an ohms test is not valid and therefore inconclusive as to cable and connector condition.