Starboard engine slow crank

[FLJetBoater]

You would be better off to do a voltage drop test on the positive cable from the battery to the starter and also across the ground. Resistance testing these wires by doing an ohms test is not valid and therefore inconclusive as to cable and connector condition.

I did that, results should be up in the thread. Drop wasn’t more than 1v

 

[Sbrown]

I did that, results should be up in the thread. Drop wasn’t more than 1v

Hmmm, I thought I just read the whole thread, but I must've missed them. I'll re-read.

Edit: Just re-read whole thread, I don't see where an accurate voltage drop test was done on the cables, or the results. I see battery voltage readings before cranking and while cranking, but that's not the same thing.

Either way, if you did a voltage drop test on the cables and you were dropping a volt, thats a clear indicator of a bad wire or connection

 

[Sbrown]

This link may help clarify the test I'mrecommending: Voltage Drop Testing.

 

[FLJetBoater]

This link may help clarify the test I'mrecommending: Voltage Drop Testing.

Thanks. I’ll try running through these again but I can’t access the ground connection to the starter without removing the manifold. I’ll try and get it somehow clipped or at least pressed (with a 2nd person) to the starter body.

 

[Sbrown]

Thanks. I’ll try running through these again but I can’t access the ground connection to the starter without removing the manifold. I’ll try and get it somehow clipped or at least pressed (with a 2nd person) to the starter body.

You dont need to do all that. Just find a good ground on the motor and test from there to the battery neg terminal. If the test fails, you can then work on isolating. If the test passes, then you're good to go. Test positive side too

 

[FLJetBoater]

You dont need to do all that. Just find a good ground on the motor and test from there to the battery neg terminal. If the test fails, you can then work on isolating. If the test passes, then you're good to go. Test positive side too

Ran some more tests this evening.....

Battery voltage - 12.8

while cranking....
battery - 11.6
Pos to starter, ground to battery - 9.6-10.3v

drop tests
pos to starter pos, neg to battery pos - 1.0-1.1v
pos to battery cable, neg to starter pos - 1.0-1.2v
pos to starter body, neg to battery neg - 0.3v

Does this indicate an issue on the positive side? I'll have someone help me remove the electrical box tomorrow so I can test pre/post solenoid drops.

 

[Sbrown]

Ground side is a little high, but ok. I don't think that's where the problem lay. Positive side is really high though, and most likely the problem. Don't forget to Check the drop across the solenoid, too. Willing to bet it turns out to be high resistance at/in the solenoid.

 

[FLJetBoater]

Ground side is a little high, but ok. I don't think that's where the problem lay. Positive side is really high though, and most likely the problem. Don't forget to Check the drop across the solenoid, too. Willing to bet it turns out to be high resistance at/in the solenoid.

I'll pull the box tomorrow and check. Takes 2 people so have to recruit a helper

 

[FLJetBoater]

Ground side is a little high, but ok. I don't think that's where the problem lay. Positive side is really high though, and most likely the problem. Don't forget to Check the drop across the solenoid, too. Willing to bet it turns out to be high resistance at/in the solenoid.

So I tested the solenoid today, seems to be ok to me. 0.8 drop from battery to pos side, 1.1 drop from battery to starter side. so 0.3 across the solenoid. I didn’t jump it, will try that tomorrow.

Went battery pos post to starter switch battery side post and drop was 0.6v, which is really odd because if that short cable is bad it should be affecting both starters.

Hooked the engine cables directly to the battery and it turned over much quicker. Not like the port side, but a lot quicker than before. Could still be some resistance in the actual engine cable. I didn’t have time to test that one it was getting dark and the bugs were out.

I took off the short battery cable off and brought it home. Hooked up the multimeter and set it to ohms. It starts off around .8 and over the next few seconds drops down to 0.1 although like I said before these cables are probably too large for a multimeter to accurately test resistance

 

[FLJetBoater]

Ground side is a little high, but ok. I don't think that's where the problem lay. Positive side is really high though, and most likely the problem. Don't forget to Check the drop across the solenoid, too. Willing to bet it turns out to be high resistance at/in the solenoid.

I'm going to replace the cable from the battery to the switch (6awg wire) and see if that helps but that should have been affecting both engines. Maybe also run an auto jumper cable straight from the switch to the solenoid connection (battery side) to eliminate the switch-to-solenoid wire as a cause.

 

[Sbrown]

The .6 cable was assuredly affecting both engines and definitely needs to be replaced in my opinion, but your port engine also has some more resistance in its starter circuit in addition to the .6 that the starboard starter doesn't have , thus making the port engine crank slower. I think when you get this solved, both engines will crank faster as well as more evenly. Remember, every volt you drop somewhere is one less volt thats available to turn the starter. Also, the voltage drop only reads accurately when the circuit is loaded, so all these tests should be done while cranking.

 

[FLJetBoater]

The .6 cable was assuredly affecting both engines and definitely needs to be replaced in my opinion, but your port engine also has some more resistance in its starter circuit in addition to the .6 that the starboard starter doesn't have , thus making the port engine crank slower. I think when you get this solved, both engines will crank faster as well as more evenly. Remember, every volt you drop somewhere is one less volt thats available to turn the starter. Also, the voltage drop only reads accurately when the circuit is loaded, so all these tests should be done while cranking.

Thanks. Picked up the cable tonight and will hook up tomorrow and retest. And yes all tests are being done while the engine is cranking.

 

[FLJetBoater]

The .6 cable was assuredly affecting both engines and definitely needs to be replaced in my opinion, but your port engine also has some more resistance in its starter circuit in addition to the .6 that the starboard starter doesn't have , thus making the port engine crank slower. I think when you get this solved, both engines will crank faster as well as more evenly. Remember, every volt you drop somewhere is one less volt thats available to turn the starter. Also, the voltage drop only reads accurately when the circuit is loaded, so all these tests should be done while cranking.

New cable installed, MM still showing .6 drop. I'm not sure how that's possible. I wonder if my MM is not working properly. It's a Klein MM400 from HomeDepot. Maybe I'll pick up a different one and re-test.

But, what I did do was test the voltage drop from the battery to the port starter. The drop was basically the same as the starboard, 1.1-1.3 volts which makes me think that it's definitely a starter issue if the voltage being delivered to both starters is the same, but only 1 is acting up. No obvious issues with solenoid.

 

[Sbrown]

New cable installed, MM still showing .6 drop. I'm not sure how that's possible. I wonder if my MM is not working properly. It's a Klein MM400 from HomeDepot. Maybe I'll pick up a different one and re-test.

But, what I did do was test the voltage drop from the battery to the port starter. The drop was basically the same as the starboard, 1.1-1.3 volts which makes me think that it's definitely a starter issue if the voltage being delivered to both starters is the same, but only 1 is acting up. No obvious issues with solenoid.

That does seem odd. I don't even know what to say, other than I agree with your assessment of the situation that it almost has to be a faulty starter. I think I would also want to verify the accuracy of my meter if I had the slightest doubt of its readings.

 

[FLJetBoater]

That does seem odd. I don't even know what to say, other than I agree with your assessment of the situation that it almost has to be a faulty starter. I think I would also want to verify the accuracy of my meter if I had the slightest doubt of its readings.

Incredible.....today on the water. Stop that engine go to restart it is dead completely. No click nothing. Limp back to dock....start troubleshooting and pulling everything apart. Finally get a thought about the key switches. Pull them out, swap the key assembly and bam, fired right up, no slow crank nothing. So I guess the key switch was going bad and finally died.

So, anyone have a spare one?looks like the same ones have been used forever

F1C-U8036-02-00



Looks like most places are showing 83 days?!?!!!

 

[mrcleanr6]

I prob missed it somewhere but are these the 1.8s or the mr1? I have a brand new mr1 starter sitting here on the shelf and nothing with an mr1 anymore

 

[mrcleanr6]

Hmmm key sw would cause a no cranking issue but i dont see how it could cause a slow crank situation. Key does nothing other than activate the solenoid

 

[FLJetBoater]

I prob missed it somewhere but are these the 1.8s or the mr1? I have a brand new mr1 starter sitting here on the shelf and nothing with an mr1 anymore

1.8...but after today’s debacle I don’t think that’s what it is anymore

 

[FLJetBoater]

Hmmm key sw would cause a no cranking issue but i dont see how it could cause a slow crank situation. Key does nothing other than activate the solenoid

I have no idea.....but switching those key assemblies fixed it. I will say it doesn’t crank like the port does but it’s way faster than it was earlier today. So maybe starter is a bit weak, but the assembly definitely made a difference

 

[Beachbummer]

I think the voltage to the solenoid travels through the hatch switch. Maybe the weak current was firing the solenoid weakly? I have not heard of that generally the solenoid either trips or not, but this is very interesting.