Stereo upgrade help

[Speedling]

I learn so much here. I snagged one of those breakers for my “winter project” too. I also liked all the good recommendations of the Clarion XC1410, but decided to experiment with the 2510 since I finally want to add a (subtle) sub -JL Audio M8IB5-SG-TB. I also got the KnuKonceptz 4 gauge wire to run to helm with (hopefully) a blue seas distribution block from Santa.
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Also, I never shared, but also made a guard for the batteries. It has large triangular openings as I was worried about venting and wanted to be able to hook up the battery minder alligator clips without removing. I also added a voltage check block with leads to read individual battery voltage (with a meter) without pulling the cover. I labeled that upside down ‘cause that’s how my head is when I put the leads in the holes. The battery switch is just aft of the enclosure.
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I like the box!
I have been designing and designing and you guys keep me thinking and not doing!

 

[robert843]

Well brought the boat home from storage about an hour ago plan to start in the morning so probably will post some questions as I go. Plan to try and complete this weekend but I have a feeling it won't get finished which will bother the crap out of me. So this weekend I plan to install two amps a Polk PAD40004 and a JL MHX300 to power 6 Kicker KM65 led speakers and a JL 10IB3 WLD led speaker. I'm replacing the stock courtesy lights with blue led ones that match the stock ones and adding four more courtesy blue led lights as well. I also have throttle sync I plan to install but that should be quick and easy. I installed all my Seadek last weekend didn't do the floors just all other optional pieces plan to keep the carpet for a bit still. I have distribution blocks I will set to be able to add another power block later for other items. Not looking forward to cutting 3 holes tomorrow so will likely do that task first I plan to use an electric jig saw like I did on my last boat with blades designed to cut metal.

 

[Seadeals]

It sounds like a very busy (and fun) weekend for you. I cut the mounting board for my new amp (Clarion XC2510) and played around with the location last night. I also removed a Niles speaker switch. It cut the bow speakers off and powered jacks at the Bimini base where you can attach outdoor speakers to the Bimini frame while swimming. I hardly ever bother with that; but it is a decent idea if swimming a long time as you can hear better at lower volume for longer battery life and the old 210s have no real estate for swim platform speakers.

Are you planning to rewire the stock speakers? I am trying to decide if doing so will really be worth money and time. The amp is able to push 50w versus the head unit’s 18w, so thinking it may be appropriate given the gauge of the stock wire and the fact it is almost 12 years old.

 

[robert843]

@Seadeals for 50 watts at 4 ohm no I would not rewire no need u less you really want to. I have not decided yet for sure but probably a partial rewire for me. My amp pushes 125 per line in 4 ohm so I may leave the stock wire on the front two speakers and rewire the four rear as I plan to run them in a 2 ohm set up. From best I could read everywhere it wasn't about the watts so much but when you drop the ohms the amps increase and bigger wire will help the amp run more efficient and cooler on a 2 ohm load.

 

[robert843]

@swatski I don't see a loose remote ground wire on the back of my head unit did you just happened to the blue wire that's on there for the head unit? I did get my holes cut

 

[swatski]

@swatski I don't see a loose remote ground wire on the back of my head unit did you just happened to the blue wire that's on there for the head unit? I did get my holes cut
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Do you mean the "power antenna"? It is a blue wire - there is definitely one coming out of the HU in the helm - behind the dash.

However, if you use speaker level outputs direct from the HU, you may not require the rem (power antenna).

I can take pictures later today, if I get ot the boat, just let me know.

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[robert843]

Here is what I'm looking at I don't see any free cables other then the rca cables

 

[veedubtek]

Look at your blue wire. Goes into the connector on one end, never goes anywhere out the other. In my experience, blue wire is *always* remote turn on/power antenna/just supplies power with radio on kinda wire.

 

[robert843]

Look at your blue wire. Goes into the connector on one end, never goes anywhere out the other. In my experience, blue wire is *always* remote turn on/power antenna/just supplies power with radio on kinda wire.

Yes that is the wire I was talking about to see if he tapped into you are correct I see it going int the connector but nothing coming out the other side.

 

[swatski]

Here is what I'm looking at I don't see any free cables other then the rca cables
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It's the blue one. Cut it out or splice into it. You will most likely never be adding pins to the connector, but if that is a possibility - cut a couple of inches off the connector.

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[robert843]

Thanks @swatski and @veedubtek I thought so just wanted to make sure. @Seadeals not sure whats on your boat but once I dove into this it appears they used 16 gauge speaker wire so I will not even rewire mine I was going to run 14 gauge around the boat but I think the difference would have been minimal if it all. I expected to see 18 gauge for sure.

 

[robert843]

So tomorrow I plan to tackle getting the amps set up. I'm torn whether to go from the house on/off switch or straight from the battery. Do I run any risks going from the house on/off switch since the breaker will be on the other side of it instead of the battery side or should it flip before any issues? last thing I want to do is fry everything on that switch if god forbid a wire comes loose or something.

 

[Seadeals]

Thanks @robert843 I will use the stock speaker wires. Unlike the power supply wires, the divided amperage to the speakers is much less and the voltage drop tables also proved little need to upgrade to lower gauge wire in my application. Congrats on cutting your big holes. I am still nervous about that; but did buy some fresh jig saw blades today. Is there a specific reason for using birch for the subwoofer backup ring @txav8r or can other species work?

 

[robert843]

Thanks @robert843 I will use the stock speaker wires. Unlike the power supply wires, the divided amperage to the speakers is much less and the voltage drop tables also proved little need to upgrade to lower gauge wire in my application. Congrats on cutting your big holes. I am still nervous about that; but did buy some fresh jig saw blades today. Is there a specific reason for using birch for the subwoofer backup ring @txav8r or can other species work?

I had some left from the last time on did this on my 2011 SX240. I used blades designed to cut metal the do pretty well in the thick fiber glass. I also after reading @Julian install went out and bought a 5 inch holes saw blade also designed to cut metal it made really quick work of the holes for the 6.5 inch speakers that was a very good investment less then a minute to cut those holes.

 

[robert843]

Well that was a first I had a 3/8 inch drill bit snap in half drilling into the fiberglass and a small chunk of fiberglass chipped off in the process and came fly back and hit me in the face and split my lip open thank god it didn't hit me in the eye.

 

[robert843]

Well I didn't get 100% finished real work got in the way today. All 6 kicker km65 led speakers are installed and the JL 10 led subwoofer and all wires are ran to the amp mounting location just have to do amp install. Also replaced the 4 stock courtesy lights with four blue LED ones and also added four more LED floor courtesy lights . Unfortunately one of them came miss packed and was white so I will have to replace that one

 

[txav8r]

Thanks @robert843 I will use the stock speaker wires. Unlike the power supply wires, the divided amperage to the speakers is much less and the voltage drop tables also proved little need to upgrade to lower gauge wire in my application. Congrats on cutting your big holes. I am still nervous about that; but did buy some fresh jig saw blades today. Is there a specific reason for using birch for the subwoofer backup ring @txav8r or can other species work?

Birch is a hardwood, and when properly sealed, will withstand the moisture possibilities. With it on the back of the wall, the woofer on the front, wth the wall sandwiched between, that heavy magnet making rapid movements can't shatter your wall. A backing ring of substantial capability is imperative.

 

[Seadeals]

Looks great @robert843. I have been working on my audio enhancement as well. After all the pros and cons, I elected to locate power (new fuse block) and my amp just forward of the helm on the inside of this wall.

I ran 4 gauge KnuKonceptz “Kolosus Fleks Kabyle” from batteries through a 70 amp circuit breaker (playing it safe to start). I did route under the floor but went across the front of the engine bay by the ECUs as I just didn’t like the idea of running that much power parallel to the fuel filler and diagonally across the tank.



I ordered 22’ of red and black (to be safe) but actually needed only 17’ of black and 18’ of red for the path taken (I ran the negative to the #1 (forward battery as it had more room for the terminal). Here is the mounting board for the amp (on hand materials).

Painted the board fully with rustoleum gloss black and covered in marine carpet left over from trailer bunks. This is before adding the blu seas fuse block and all the clamps that tidy wire routing. Here it is installed. The white strip at the top has an led strip. I moved both the led controller and Lawrance of the helm circuits onto this new feed, which cleaned up the helm wiring considerably.

Looking straight up at new wires routing and main harness passing into helm.

I did use the factory wires for the speaker but did run 12 gauge primary wire to the sub location since the amp is 200 Watts to the sub. I plan to locate it on the starboard side aft compartment just behind the captain’s chair facing forward. Most installs face inward but I am thinking this for three reasons: less impact on storage, it is a smaller (stronger) surface farther from the rear speaker (may still want a baffle) and I am sure to feel it chilling in my chair.

Thanks for all the info and advice!

 

[robert843]

Great install @Seadeals so it looks like you hooked up you 70amp breaker on the out side of your main shut off so you can shut everything down from the boats main on/off switch. The one question that I never got answered is do I risk everything on that switch if I do so as well should a failure happen or would my breaker flip before it could fry out all of the boats systems on the house battery?

 

[nate kennedy]

@Seadeals i am looking at doing a similar set up on my boat. I have been looking at the blu seas distribution block is the one you got 30 amps per circuit? Is that enough for your amp? Or is there a larger one I am just not seeing?

Thanks!