Stereo upgrade help

[Seadeals]

Yes, I got the 6 circuit unit that is 100 amp (5025). I debated the 30 amp circuit rating a bit (which is only online, not the packaging) as the amp has two power wires fused at 40 amps each. I thought about splitting them and taking up four fused terminal locations but have to think about the science of that “cheat” more. To be conservative, I breakered the whole supply at only 70 amps, not 100. Even though I don’t plan to push the system that hard (probably only for a few seconds to see what it will do), it is not a good idea to design a risk into a system and you need to know the weak link. I want a conservative upgrade focused on quality of audio, not sheer amplitude so may just pop 30A fuses in if I deem it an overheat risk. They blow if I go too loud.

 

[Seadeals]

@robert843 the battery positives go straight to the switch. The aux power feed is breakered right after the switch. The boat power comes off the same switch post. Those wires also have a fuse right after the switch (the little black box above the switch in that photo). Theoretically the fuses exist to protect the equipment from a short (unless the weakest link is still stronger than the end device) so I feel there is no risk other than needing to have spare fuses on board just in case.

 

[nate kennedy]

I was thinking of running wire to this distribution block https://www.sonicelectronix.com/ite...ZSivqdITu9jir5kkBC_QaFdQOAVdxuw0aAks8EALw_wcB

It is a 0-4 gauge input with 4 4-8 gauge outputs. My thought was run 2 gauge to the block and run 4 gauge to two amps and a 4 gauge to a blue seas fuse block for ballast and other future power needs. Is that a big enough power input? If I’m thinking about this right I would put a breaker by the battery then I would fuse the leads to both amps. Would I need a fuse going to the blue seas fuse distribution as well? Thinking amps will be JL Audio M800 8 channel amp and JL Audio M400 4 channel amp.

Thanks for the help and input!

 

[txav8r]

All the work is done now and looks good! For anyone doing this install, a waterproof or resistant mounting board would be better. Or at least a hard surfaced mounting board. Carpet is textured and the cooking airflow behind the amp(s) isn’t as good as on a hard surface. Could be minor, but could cause overheat issues. I mounted to King Starboard and it is the best of both worlds. If going the easier and less expensive route, just waterproof the substrate with poly resin, and paint it if you so choose.

 

[Seadeals]

I actually agree with Mel on those points and for this mod, voluntarily chose to be a “rebel” with a few things based on how I use the boat, practical cost control and ease of material availability. The oil-based exterior grade rustoleum encapsulating the board is impervious enough to moisture for my taste and while I don’t do sub moves, unextected water inside warrants emptying of compartments and the “fan treatment” anyway. Starboard is sweet but these projects add up quick with all the miscellaneous supplies (stainless screws, terminals, shrink wrap, zip ties solder, loom, fuses and adel clamps) so be prepared for that in your budget, especially if you want to make it last forever. My cost summary is as follows:
Amp $171
Sub $177
Power cable $69
Fuse block $30
Circuit breaker $12
Miscellaneous: $171
Birch wood (for sub ring) $25
My ballpark “budget sound system upgrade” total: $655

I will have some materials left over but needed the above purchases to complete the job. I also had some supplies on hand; but the usual stock was pretty depleted when I started this project. Everyone has amazing knowledge and experience to offer here and the cool part is we each get to decide what to do with it all to best suit our situations. You can bet I will be checking to see how hot the amp gets as I start to enjoy it. BTW, this was an unsanctioned mod I initiated spontaneously on Black Friday with the other purchases spread out over December, so don’t let my Mrs. know about that total just yet at least not until she hears it and sees how well it makes our girls dance.

 

[Seadeals]

Hey @robert843 did you wrap up your install? I was able to power up today and with the help of a friend with some great test CDs and a lot of experience dialing in the gain and bypass filters on systems, I was blown away. We both couldn’t help but laugh it was so good. The money and time was totally worth it! I have the system set conservatively so I don’t blow anything up and I may find I need a little more gain when outside on the water; but MAN does it sound good. Again, my goal was fidelity, not overall loudness. So far I am VERY happy with how hard the M8IB5 can hit if the music calls for it to. Now I understand (and appreciate) the acoustic side of the mod world. I still have a lot to learn; like I figured out I can configure the bypass from the head unitrather than the amp if I want to make that more acurate than the approximate settings on the amp pots. Thanks to everyone for the help!

 

[robert843]

Hey @robert843 did you wrap up your install? I was able to power up today and with the help of a friend with some great test CDs and a lot of experience dialing in the gain and bypass filters on systems, I was blown away. We both couldn’t help but laugh it was so good. The money and time was totally worth it! I have the system set conservatively so I don’t blow anything up and I may find I need a little more gain when outside on the water; but MAN does it sound good. Again, my goal was fidelity, not overall loudness. So far I am VERY happy with how hard the M8IB5 can hit if the music calls for it to. Now I understand (and appreciate) the acoustic side of the mod world. I still have a lot to learn; like I figured out I can configure the bypass from the head unitrather than the amp if I want to make that more acurate than the approximate settings on the amp pots. Thanks to everyone for the help!

No its been to darn cold when I have time lol. Its still sitting at about 80% done have to mount amps and hook them up and tune them. All the speakers are mounted and all wiring is ran to the correct location and all LED's are done.

 

[Seadeals]

After the addition of the new power distribution, amp and sub, I somehow screwed up radio reception. I wired the amp to the new power feed and also moved my LED lighting control over; but left the head unit wired to the original feed under the dash. I did notice the reception improved when I removed the negative from the LED controller; but when I jumped the LED controller negative (new feed) to the negative bus (original feed) it stayed horrible. Do I need to move the head unit over to the new power supply too? I checked all grounds and everything seems tight.

 

[robert843]

After the addition of the new power distribution, amp and sub, I somehow screwed up radio reception. I wired the amp to the new power feed and also moved my LED lighting control over; but left the head unit wired to the original feed under the dash. I did notice the reception improved when I removed the negative from the LED controller; but when I jumped the LED controller negative (new feed) to the negative bus (original feed) it stayed horrible. Do I need to move the head unit over to the new power supply too? I checked all grounds and everything seems tight.

I would check the antenna cable didn't come disconnected or is possibly not loose.

 

[robert843]

@swatski how the heck do you remove the cover on the house on off switch? I pulled the one screw in it out but it won't budge.

 

[Seadeals]

Thanks. That was the first thing I checked and also moved the antenna ribbon away from wires. No affect.

 

[swatski]

@swatski how the heck do you remove the cover on the house on off switch? I pulled the one screw in it out but it won't budge.

Oh God, those are so awful. Long bolts actually and very tricky to loosen AND tighten back. Plus they have those plastic spacers that are next to impossible to reinstall.

EDIT - you will need to hold the nut on the other side of the bulkhead, which is probably embedded in the carpet.

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[robert843]

Oh God, those are so awful. Long bolts actually and very tricky to loosen AND tighten back. Plus they have those plastic spacers that are next to impossible to reinstall.

EDIT - you will need to hold the nut on the other side of the bulkhead, which is probably embedded in the carpet.

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The one screw that was showing on the out side came right out but still wont budge I guess I can try removing the spacers. Maybe I will just go straight from the battery then lol and use the breaker as my on off for the moment and maybe later install a switch.

 

[swatski]

Maybe I will just go straight from the battery then lol and use the breaker as my on off

That is what I did with my main ballast/stereo circuit, I can turn on/off whenever. I used one of these - no issues so far, works great. I think it is safer than the factory switches and also in plain view. Just one more switch to turn on/off when leaving the boat - for me it is 1-2-3 - two main switches and the bussmann.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00139FQS...8395-2ef87f684b10&ie=UTF8&qid=1515873160&sr=1

Actually - this is the exact one I'm using, it is 150 Amp but I have 4 Johnson ballast pumps that pull way more juice than your setero ever would.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PT7XBE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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[LeeFlan7]

Great find @Julian I was confused as well when I saw the two different size fuses and thought the same thing to my self that wouldn't the 35 amp just blow first. I have never used Polk amps I'm not a big Polk fan at all usually stick to Orion or JL on the amps but Orion doesn't make marine rated audio that I know of. I was going to go JL but after reading the the specs and reviews that this Polk Amp was producing the power it said it did 500 watts at 4 ohm and 800 watts at 2 ohm it couldn't be past up when I found them on Walmart's web site for almost half the original price at $199. The second amp is a JL MHX300 that will be dedicate just to the subwoofer.

Good so I am not losing it. The author of the article states that are output side of the fuses are in parallel. That being the case you should be able to remove one of those fuses and still have it operate normally. Weird. Now if they were in series and the 35 amp was a slow blow and the 40 amp a normal fast blow it might almost make sense (slow blow atc are not very common). With a soft turn on circuit the only way that would make sense is if amps were super sensitive to demand spikes. Oh well if it works it does not really matter.

At any rate this tells me that Polk felt that 40 amps was enough to protect the amp without causing the amp to turn off from both fuses blowing. Since your amp is already fused I still recommend fusing higher at the block (50 amp). Think of it like your home circuit breaker panel with a sub panel in a detached garage.

That said a 40 amp at the block would not hurt and likely never blow but to @Julian point why blow the 2 in the amp and the one in the block all at the same time.

At least you picked the right time of year for the install. Climbing in helm for an extended period when it is hot is brutal.

I just ordered the same polk amp pad4000.4, wondering what size in-line fuse holder and fuse's I should use, i won't be adding anything else besides 4 speakers (polk mm652's) to this amp or power supply if that makes a difference. any help is much appreciated

 

[robert843]

I just ordered the same polk amp pad4000.4, wondering what size in-line fuse holder and fuse's I should use, i won't be adding anything else besides 4 speakers (polk mm652's) to this amp or power supply if that makes a difference. any help is much appreciated

I'm pretty sure it was 40 amp if its just this amp being added.

 

[LeeFlan7]

also, should i change out the stock speaker wire to go with the polk mm's, I've read differing reports

 

[robert843]

also, should i change out the stock speaker woes to go with the polk mm's, I've read differing reports

If you plan to run them in a standard 4 ohm set up I wouldn't.

 

[LeeFlan7]

perfect...yeah thats how i will be running them

 

[Hilario Perez]

What kind of amp and speakers did you purchase did you take any pictures I'm looking to upgrade my SX240 soon.