Super Charger clutch fail?

[ldefoggi]

So I know this has been discussed a lot and I did search a lot for this topic…. But I can’t seem to find the question or info I’m looking for.

I have a 2017 AR195, about 310 hours on it. I just put a new impeller and wear ring on it and the boat has been running fantastic! Had a full family load pulling tubes and wake boards with no issues.

I got on the tube with my daughter and my friend was pulling us around, after a couple runs, he went to take off and the boat would not rev past 5500 RPM. We stopped and checked everything. Nothing in the shaft/impeller, and it didn’t feel damaged. The cleanout plug was all the way seated. I checked the air cleaner box, no foam or debris in the intake tube. Oil level is good, and the are no unusual vibrations. Doesn’t seem like it’s misfiring so I don’t think it’s a spark plug or coil.

I did check to see if the SC will spin freely and this is where I’m second guessing myself. I can move it both directions, with one direction being easier than the other. Everything I’ve found in searches indicates that when these SC clutches fail the SC will FREELY spin in both directions. I’m just not getting that, so my question is if I can turn this SC in both directions, but not free spin, does that still indicate a bad clutch?

I do recall hearing almost like a whistle when the engine would idle before but now I do not. Related? Maybe I’m imagining it…

Apologies if this has already been asked, and for creating ANOTHER SC clutch thread…

Thanks in advance!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I do not have a boat like yours but, if the SC wheel can spin in both directions the clutch is bad.

If the engine will only rev to 5500 rpm is another clear cut sign from everything I’ve read that the SC clutch is bad.

Again, based on everything I’ve read I’d be installing on of the blow off valves to protect the SC clutch.

 

[ldefoggi]

Well I dug around and couldn’t find any other explanation, so I removed the clutch today, got the gasket surface cleaned up and now just waiting on the new clutch and gasket to arrive!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Well done! Did you check out the blow off valves?

 

[ldefoggi]

I did, I ordered a BOV kit from MacsBoost.com.

MACSBOOST BOV kit

I ordered the new clutch from PWCparts.com and the description says its OEM but it’s an upgraded clutch for 2014 and up SVHO. Not sure when the upgrade would’ve happened, as my boat is a 2017. And from the looks of the oil pump housing and bolts it’s never been apart. So with 310 hours and 7 years old I’ll call that a win no matter what!

SC Clutch kit

I watched a video on YouTube that discussed needing to prime the oil pump / Supercharger. There’s a small bolt to remove on top of the gear side of the SC that’ll bleed off air. Seems pretty simple, remove the bolt, start the engine and let the air bleed off til oil comes out the bolt hole then stop the engine and replace the bolt.

I’ll post an update when I get everything back together!

 

[Neutron]

I did, I ordered a BOV kit from MacsBoost.com.

MACSBOOST BOV kit

I ordered the new clutch from PWCparts.com and the description says its OEM but it’s an upgraded clutch for 2014 and up SVHO. Not sure when the upgrade would’ve happened, as my boat is a 2017. And from the looks of the oil pump housing and bolts it’s never been apart. So with 310 hours and 7 years old I’ll call that a win no matter what!

SC Clutch kit

I watched a video on YouTube that discussed needing to prime the oil pump / Supercharger. There’s a small bolt to remove on top of the gear side of the SC that’ll bleed off air. Seems pretty simple, remove the bolt, start the engine and let the air bleed off til oil comes out the bolt hole then stop the engine and replace the bolt.

I’ll post an update when I get everything back together!

I would not run it to bleed off, i would remove the coils and plugs and just crank. Running it may cause a mess. Just a thought. But good find on the cluch being blown.
Definitely should only spun one way.
And get a blow off valve, it will extend the cluch life .

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I did, I ordered a BOV kit from MacsBoost.com.

MACSBOOST BOV kit

I ordered the new clutch from PWCparts.com and the description says its OEM but it’s an upgraded clutch for 2014 and up SVHO. Not sure when the upgrade would’ve happened, as my boat is a 2017. And from the looks of the oil pump housing and bolts it’s never been apart. So with 310 hours and 7 years old I’ll call that a win no matter what!

SC Clutch kit

I watched a video on YouTube that discussed needing to prime the oil pump / Supercharger. There’s a small bolt to remove on top of the gear side of the SC that’ll bleed off air. Seems pretty simple, remove the bolt, start the engine and let the air bleed off til oil comes out the bolt hole then stop the engine and replace the bolt.

I’ll post an update when I get everything back together!

Great job!

I love to see folks aggressively get after their repairs like this. You’ll be back on the water soon making good memories!

 

[@JC!]

Well I dug around and couldn’t find any other explanation, so I removed the clutch today, got the gasket surface cleaned up and now just waiting on the new clutch and gasket to arrive!

As you've figured out, if it can spin at all in both directions the clutch has gone as it's designed to only turn in 1 direction. Been running a Tial Q 50mm BOV on my ski since new and am currently on clutch #3, these are wear parts and will fail eventually no matter what you do to try to go easy on them. Thankfully for you, changing the clutch on the boat is much easier than on the ski as you actually have some room to get at the bolts on the oil cooler. If you didn't already buy it, I'd highly recommend buying the Riva clutch holding tool, it makes it so much easier to get the clutch bolt out and back in without risking turning your crank backwards and slipping the timing chain.

Also not sure where you bought the new clutch from but if you bought the latest clutch hopefully you also bought the new timing chain guide bolts. Pre-2021 engines need to change out the timing guide bolts to fit the re-designed clutch as the original hex head bolts are too tall and are replaced with button head bolts (note: do this one at a time ).

 

[ldefoggi]

As you've figured out, if it can spin at all in both directions the clutch has gone as it's designed to only turn in 1 direction. Been running a Tial Q 50mm BOV on my ski since new and am currently on clutch #3, these are wear parts and will fail eventually no matter what you do to try to go easy on them. Thankfully for you, changing the clutch on the boat is much easier than on the ski as you actually have some room to get at the bolts on the oil cooler. If you didn't already buy it, I'd highly recommend buying the Riva clutch holding tool, it makes it so much easier to get the clutch bolt out and back in without risking turning your crank backwards and slipping the timing chain.

Also not sure where you bought the new clutch from but if you bought the latest clutch hopefully you also bought the new timing chain guide bolts. Pre-2021 engines need to change out the timing guide bolts to fit the re-designed clutch as the original hex head bolts are too tall and are replaced with button head bolts (note: do this one at a time ).

Thanks for the good advice! Yes with the boat I do have a little more room to work with but not much, and definitly on my knees and leaning over and in to the engine compartment to do any work… sucks…

Yes, I used the clutch holding tool and used an impact to remove/install the crank bolt, no issues. I also replaced the tensioner bolts with the new button head bolts. I installed a Macsboost BOV too. Hopefully I’ll get another 300 hours on this clutch as I think what I replaced was original!

 

[@JC!]

Thanks for the good advice! Yes with the boat I do have a little more room to work with but not much, and definitly on my knees and leaning over and in to the engine compartment to do any work… sucks…

Yes, I used the clutch holding tool and used an impact to remove/install the crank bolt, no issues. I also replaced the tensioner bolts with the new button head bolts. I installed a Macsboost BOV too. Hopefully I’ll get another 300 hours on this clutch as I think what I replaced was original!

I'm averaging about 80hrs on my ski clutches (2nd gen and 3rd gen clutch now replaced with the 4th gen, thankfully I never had to deal with the 1st gen stripping teeth when it failed) so far, but I'm also running about 16psi of boost at WOT so there's that... The AR195 supercharger is stock though and still on it's 1st clutch.

Could be worse though, we could have mid/late 2000's SeaDoos with their engine grenading ceramic clutch washers!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Thanks for the good advice! Yes with the boat I do have a little more room to work with but not much, and definitly on my knees and leaning over and in to the engine compartment to do any work… sucks…

Yes, I used the clutch holding tool and used an impact to remove/install the crank bolt, no issues. I also replaced the tensioner bolts with the new button head bolts. I installed a Macsboost BOV too. Hopefully I’ll get another 300 hours on this clutch as I think what I replaced was original!

Are you back on the water?

 

[ldefoggi]

Are you back on the water?

Yep, back in action. Had the family out on the boat all day yesterday! Had a great day, burned about 3/4 of the tank of gas, boat ran great, no leaks or problems!