Supercharger Winterization

[Floydy]

Hello,

it's getting colder in TN and I'm starting to think about winterization. The nearest dealer to where I store the boat is 250 miles so I plan to do the winterization myself. There is great information on this forum and on YouTube about DIY winterization of jet boats and I have consumed most of it. I am clear on all required actions except the supercharger where I see mixed opinions and no clear answer.

For reference my 165 has the 250 HO engine with 69 hours and the general process I intend to follow is flushing with fresh water (because I did not do this when I last pulled it from the lake), blow the water from the exhaust by revving the engine, and then thoroughly dry using compressed air. I am choosing to not use anti-freeze. I also plan to do an oil / filter change, and top off and treat the fuel. I have seen references to additional steps needed to winterize the supercharger, including actions to remove possible condensation and to lubricate the pump. I also see references to the manual describing removing a hose from the supercharger to facilitate condensation removal, however I have no reference to this in my manual (the entire section on winterization in the manual is so generic it's useless).

Can anyone offer clear guidance on actions needed to winterize the supercharger, beyond what I am already planning to do?

Many thanks in advance.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

There is nothing to do with the supercharger. Some OPTIONALLY disconnect hoses to ensure there's no moisture. But it shouldn't be necessary and it's why it's not in the official manual. Just compressed air as you're doing will do the trick and flush out enough water that whatever water is left won't be a problem. Antifreeze is "extra insurance" but not necessary.

The rest sounds like you're on track. I'd inspect/lubricrate the pump every two years. That's my recommendation. Doesn't take long.

Also, don't forget your system coolant. The green XPS stuff has a 2 year life. So keep that in mind whenever it's time to replace it.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

I’d be very careful using compressed air to blow things out, you could easily destroy things with un regulated compressed air.

I take it the intercooler is cooled with raw water and not the fresh water system that cools the engines?

You also need to add the fuel stabilizer to the tank, then fill it, then run the engine for a while to make sure the treated fuel gets circulated through the engine.

 

[Floydy]

There is nothing to do with the supercharger. Some OPTIONALLY disconnect hoses to ensure there's no moisture. But it shouldn't be necessary and it's why it's not in the official manual. Just compressed air as you're doing will do the trick and flush out enough water that whatever water is left won't be a problem. Antifreeze is "extra insurance" but not necessary.

The rest sounds like you're on track. I'd inspect/lubricrate the pump every two years. That's my recommendation. Doesn't take long.

Also, don't forget your system coolant. The green XPS stuff has a 2 year life. So keep that in mind whenever it's time to replace it.

Thanks Luc, very helpful. Can you recommend any content that describes how to lubricate the supercharger and drain the coolant? I've searched for a service manual for my model but can't find any source. The generic Scarab manual for my model year is useless and was written by lawyers not engineers. I will say that while I love my Scarab, I don't like how hard it is to find parts online compared to other brands of powersports equipment. Who wants to start "Scarab Parts House?"

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

Compressed air is at 85psi as per manual. But yes, don't overdo it.

Engine isn't cooled by water, it's cooled by antifreeze in Rotax @FSH 210 Sport but yes cooled by raw water from the lake for the intercooler.

He did mention he was going to treat the fuel. But as was mentione, I do that first as well so that it runs through the engine as I warm up the oil, etc.

Nothing for the supercharger no. It's supposed to be sent in every 2 years or 200 hours, whichever comes first for a rebuild on the older ones like yours. Otherwise, you need to be aware of how to inspect it yourself, or send it to a company like Greenhulk to do it for you.

Coolant drain is in the service manual... but it's super simple. PM me for details.

 

[Floydy]

I’d be very careful using compressed air to blow things out, you could easily destroy things with un regulated compressed air.

I take it the intercooler is cooled with raw water and not the fresh water system that cools the engines?

You also need to add the fuel stabilizer to the tank, then fill it, then run the engine for a while to make sure the treated fuel gets circulated through the engine.

I think on these models the flush out ports are plumbed to make use of compressed air reasonably safe providing you keep it below 100 PSI. I believe that the supercharger is cooled via the closed loop system that cools the engine but I do not know about the Intercooler - to be candid I don't know if mine has an intercooler! Good point on making sure the treated fuel finds it way through the entire system.

 

[Luc Lafreniere]

The 250HP engine has an external intercooler. Big metal box at the back-right of the engine bay (when facing forward in the boat). So stern-starboard. You'll see two large hoses going in and out and smaller ones which bring water to it.

The supercharger itself isn't cooled. Air passes through it and gets compressed. It's on bearings and super well balanced and lubricated.

And yes, all the lines are plumbed properly so that when you run compressed air, it flushes out all the lines appropriately. In fact, it's also gravity based so they self empty to some degree on their own too.

 

[andrei_b]

The above has been super helpful, as I just finished winterizing our 195HOI and it's going inside for storage until Easter.

It got an oil change and fuel stabilizer run through it, along with drying out the bilge area completely, among a few other items.

Can't wait for next year's boating season!