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Talk me out of a SX190!

Anyone want to give their opinion regarding the steering and handling of the Yamaha "190" models? Some have told me to wait until next season, and practice. Others are suggesting that I install thrust plates. The dealer took me out, for about 1/2 hour, and he docked the boat like a pro. Mind you, there was little to no current.
Just add the Cobra super ultimate AK-19 deluxe steering and you will own the water at all speeds even off power and you will get faster hole shot and a smoother ride in chop as well as no loss of control when decelerating in a turn and much faster turns so you can tow tubes easily.
These are adjustable, spring loaded, full time steering and the buy direct discount price is only $268.99 with free domestic shipping.
Do your research and buy from the innovator of aftermarket jet boat and P W C steering with 23 years of experience . Cobra Super Ultimate AK-19 and new Super Ultimate AK-19 DELUXE steering for 2019 and newer Yamaha Single Engine Jet Boats
 
I had the ultimate AK 19 steering from Cobra Jet Steering on mine. I came from inboard, stern drive and outboards prior to my SX195. Steering is by nature more tricky on a jet boat because you can only turn as quickly as the water pushes out. Also, keep as many people in the back and off the bow as possible when docking. The lower you can keep the pump in the water, the better “push” you have. Make slight corrections if possible, and remember, you can always swing the stern. Purchase a telescopic dock pole too and always try to dock with the top down. Top up is like a sail. Try to take a day off of work or go in the middle of the week, launch the boat when there isn’t a full ramp waiting, this will reduce your stress level dramatically and get a good feel for how the boat handles without everyone watching.
 
Here is my review..
 
I had cobra jet ak19 on mine as well. Loved them because they worked at all speeds. And you could adjust them if you wanted to. But also remember this>>>>. Steer THEN Gear. Don't leave it in gear while turning around the dock. Finally use the no wake mode. I found that to be really helpful.
 
Anyone want to give their opinion regarding the steering and handling of the Yamaha "190" models? Some have told me to wait until next season, and practice. Others are suggesting that I install thrust plates. The dealer took me out, for about 1/2 hour, and he docked the boat like a pro. Mind you, there was little to no current.
I'll be going into season 8 with my 190 next year. I don't have fins, and don't want them. Take a season and learn to drive the boat and it will reward you with more maneuverability than you expect. Don't expect it to drive like a car, and take your time learning on a day that isn't busy and nobody is waiting on you.

My 190 drives and handles light years better than my Rinker I/O did. Fins are, IMO, a crutch for those that don't want to take the time to learn. OR for boats that are often piloted by inexperienced persons. If you need to be able to "toss the keys" to anyone and expect a small amount of success, get fins. If you and your partner are the only ones driving, take a season and learn the boat before deciding on an "upgrade".
 
Coming from a Seadoo's years ago with my XP,GTI's and 1800 Sportster the reliable 2 stroke 717 engine never let me down.
Nobody had luck with the Merc powered Utopia model. Don't feel too bad about it.
Everyone jumps over to Yamaha eventually

Starting to miss mine
😭
 
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This is important. Just because you buy a thing one way, doesn't mean it has to stay that way. I've seen threads to swap captains chairs to bench, and bench to chairs. I've also seen threads to add a tower to an SX (Haven't seen anyone remove the tower from an AR permanently though).

The "modding" culture around here (and likely around boats in general) is pretty big. If you want to do a thing, there's a good chance someone's done it, or can help you do it.

Mods I've done to our '17 AR190 and trailer
  • Cut in helm storage door
  • Sound bar on Tower
  • Speaker upgrade all around
  • Bilge Pump Switch addition (pending)
  • drain lines on swim platform cupholders to wet tray area.
  • Cupholder at helm (pending)
  • USB charging port at helm
  • RideSteady
  • Additional Stereo Remote at helm
  • Subwoofer and Amplifier (pending)
  • Added spare tire and cover to trailer
  • LED lights on trailer
  • Bow Roller swap
  • Radial Tires on trailer (not really a mod I guess)
  • stainless license plate bracket on trailer
  • Ribbon delete
  • L13 Pump cone
  • sealed pump intake tunnel
2kwik4u - I've been told that the L13 cone won't really help when the SX190 is overloaded. That it, because of the space required, actually reduces the amount of water available to the impeller.
 
We have had great luck with our 2018 SX190. It has decent power even when 6 passengers are on board. The main reason my wife and I have been considering an upgrade is to get a bit more space and not get bounced around so much by the wake of the larger boats.
When we bought the 190, we wanted to start small since my wife always had a bad history of motion sickness and sea sickness with many unfavorable experiences on family boats or spirit of baltimore / philadelphia boat rides. I kick myself when we were at the shows back then for at least not considering or pricing out the 210 because I'm sure the payment difference wouldn't have been that bad.

We have a little over 100 hours on ours and it has seen both fresh and salt water. It's been fun and reliable! We did at the lateral thruster and thrust vectors from jet boat pilot after we owned the boat for about 45 days or so; coming from a sterndrive the steering was tricky to get used to.
I too love jetting about Perdido Bay on my SX190. I find, however that I have cavitation problems when trying to carry more than 4 adults, even after replacing the impeller and wear rings last year. I'd love some success stories on how to solve this problem.
 
2kwik4u - I've been told that the L13 cone won't really help when the SX190 is overloaded. That it, because of the space required, actually reduces the amount of water available to the impeller.
So, this isn't quite accurate, sort of. The L13 changes the shape of the water passageway between the pump and the nozzle. The amount of water available to the impeller remains the same, as the intake side of the pump remains unchanged. What the L13 (or any modified cone) does by changing the shape of that passageway is allowing a more evenly dispersed pressure gradient across the nozzle.

So, to back up a little bit, the pump and nozzle need to be understood. Most people think the pump/nozzle work by "pushing against" the water behind the boat. This is an incorrect intuition. You can tell quickly this is incorrect by noticing that when on plane, a jet nozzle is out of the water, and there is no water there to push against. The nozzle (at high speeds) works by trading pressure generated by the pump for momentum (by way of acceleration through the nozzle) of the water. By changing the momentum of the water, you generate a small force forward. Push a LOT of water out the back, and you get a large force forward.

A good thought experiment for illustration; say you're standing in a canoe, in a still and calm pond. You're holding a large block of concrete and "throw" it out of the boat. What happens to the boat? It moves slightly forward. NOW, think of throwing a LOT of blocks out of the back of the boat at a very rapid pace. That change in momentum from moving the mass of the block is what generates the forward force. Jet pump and nozzle systems work the same way, it grabs lots of stationary water and throws it out of the back of the boat. It does this by reducing the cross sectional area between the inlet of the nozzle (outlet of the pump) and the outlet of the nozzle. If the same mass moves through both the inlet and outlet, and the outlet is smaller, the nozzle will have accelerated that mass of water.

This is where the shape of the pump cone comes into play. That smoother pressure gradient helps reduce surging and pressure waves between the pump outlet, through the nozzle to the nozzle outlet. This in turn helps prevent cavitation in the pump. To be 100% clear, the cone shape doesn't add HP, or increase efficiency, or any other "tune up" style effect, it simply helps prevent cavitation in the pump from those inconsistent pressure gradients. It is possible to "stuff the pump" where you decrease the outlet opening to such a degree that the pump can no longer flow enough water and you loose revs due to overloading. This is why I prefer the L13, as adjustments to the position and shape of the pump cone are relatively easy. I ran with all the spacers in place for many years, I've since removed a single 5mm spacer, as I think it allows just a shade of "overshoot" during initial launch and I would rather have the flow from the increased revs than the absolute lack of cavitation from the back pressure.

That all takes us to "The L13 won't really help".......This is pretty vague and ambiguous. It helped my boat considerably, however I have cavitation issues under full load. The modified cone made the boat much more consistent regardless of person/gear loading. It now launches exactly the same whether I have 8 people or 1 people on board. "traction" with the water is much improved, and I have no problems planning with a full load and pulling a wakeboarder up from a deep water start. NOW, with that said, the 190's are still low powered single engine crafts. It's not going to launch like a scared cat on carpet. It's a 19ft vessel with 180hp, so if your boat isn't planning or struggling to plane because there isn't enough horsepower (because you're at elevation, or your overloaded, or the engine isn't running right, or whatever), then the L13 won't help. If you can't launch/plane because of cavitation, it absolutely will help.

Overall, between the ribbon delete, the L13 cone, and a sealing of the pump intake tunnel; my boat is exceptionally consistent in performance. It's not setting the world on fire. It tops out around 41-43mph now, and is still VERY sensitive to the location of loading (bow weight KILLS top speed). Brand new, with zero mods, I've only ever seen as high as 42mph. However, it almost never cavitates. Traction with the water is superb. Weather no longer affects performance. It runs the same speed in the spring, summer, and fall regardless of water and air temperature. Elevation is a much larger driver in performance than anything else. It's also been exceptionally reliable mechanically. I'm not overstressing any component, and it's given me many seasons of worry free enjoyment. That's worth more than a few mph on the top end IMO.

Sorry for the novel, it's a Friday afternoon and I didn't want to send any more work emails.
 
2kwik4u (BTW great handle),
Thanks for the novel. If anything your thoroughness has inspired me to give the L13 a try. I really like my little SX190, but am bummed by the cavitation problem with guests... I'd love to show it off...
 
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