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The Perfect Pass Thread

leatherneck33

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I tapped into the yellow power going to the radio, the down side is my PP is on all the time. It made it nice for getting everything setup, I might change it to only be on with the motors later.
 

wakerider212x

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UPDATE: Kept the black grounded where it was and and moved power wire to the yellow with red stripe coming off of the port side ignition switch. It boots right up and all the checks went as planned. I can take pictures of the whole install if anyone wants.
 

djsquid

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Here are some installation pictures of my brand new perfect pass in my 2014 212x. Thanks to JetBoatPilot for putting together the 2016 group buy. I hope this will help someone. I did this install on 3/12/16 and lake tested it on 3/19/16.
IMG_20160312_120415.jpg
Unplug the speedometer
IMG_20160312_120450.jpg
Unscrew the retention ring from the speedometer and remove.
IMG_20160312_120552.jpg
Here is the dash piece and the retention bar and nuts.
IMG_20160312_122319.jpg
it's a pretty tight fit in there, be sure it's straight before you tighten it up. Here it is installed from behind the helm.
IMG_20160312_122344.jpg
Here it is from the front
IMG_20160312_133242.jpg
Master Control Module installed with the two screws provided in the kit. They take a square bit to install them, don't waste your time with a phillips.
IMG_20160319_123904_labeled.jpg
Using the taps provided in the kit I spliced the black lead from the master control module to the black ground lead to the port tachometer. I spliced the purple power lead from the master control module to the purple (switched) lead to the port tachometer as shown. This lead must come from the starboard tach because the perfect pass comes on with the starboard tach when the starboard engine is started (or bumped) with the starboard engine key (go figure).
IMG_20160312_135411.jpg
GPS puck placement per the instructions. the cable fits snugly under the lip of the dash where it joins the gunwale and then down in the gap and behind the helm.
IMG_20160312_135435.jpg
Here is another view of the GPS puck from the captains seat.
IMG_20160312_174755.jpg
Here is a picture of my placement of the starboard side servo. I pushed/pulled the extra throttle cable back underneath the gas tank cover and increased the loop size behind the helm. I left enough cable for it to move the full throw of the servo without binding. I secured the cable in the gas tank compartment with zip ties so the throttle cable won't shift over use.
IMG_20160312_174915.jpg
Here is my port side placement of the servo housing. I had to leave a partial loop in the short cable section because I didn't want to move the potentiometer. I tested the loop thoroughly and it provides no resistance at all to the movement of the potentiometer. Same as the starboard side I pushed/pulled the extra throttle cable back underneath and increased the loop size behind the helm. I secured the throttle cable in place with a zip tie against the gas tank fill tube as shown and also underneath the gas tank cover.

I adjusted the tension of the throttle cable so that there was 3 millimeters of play side-to-side, measured in the middle of long section of exposed cable that stretches across the servo housing. This installation start-to-finish took me 6 hours on Saturday 3/12/16, including reading the instructions several times and looking over comments on this forum, and being very methodical about each install step.

I was able to take my boat out on Utah Lake to dial it in the following Saturday 3/19/16. Turns out that the 3 mm of play in the throttle cable was about right as I only had to make one very small cable tension adjustment on the starboard throttle cable (about 1 mm) to sync the two throttles perfectly when tested at 4000, 5000, 6000 rpm and WOT. The perfect pass performed flawlessly. I tested it for several hours start and stop and start again at nearly every speed increment between 9 mph and 35 mph (the ranges at which I pull surfers/boarders/skiers). I couldn't make it fail. When the water temps go up a bit we will see how it does with a boat load of people and ballast.
 
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robbo3

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Thanks for starting this thread.

What material does one need to buy in order to route power over to the PP speedo?

It sounds like using a bus bar is the best approach, but since I'm not familiar with these, I need a little help.

Type of bus bar (what is it)
Type of wire, and how much?
 

djsquid

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I strongly recommend you draw your power for the Perfect Pass system from your ignition switch. Because even when the system is turned "off" the servos and their large copper resisters are live drawing a lot of power. ('a lot' is a technical term for 'I didn't measure it' but they stay very hot to the touch even when the PP is turned off).
 

swatski

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Thanks for starting this thread.

What material does one need to buy in order to route power over to the PP speedo?

It sounds like using a bus bar is the best approach, but since I'm not familiar with these, I need a little help.

Type of bus bar (what is it)
Type of wire, and how much?


For those of you in search of switched power wire for the PP, one way to go is the red/yellow wire in the ignition. Below is a diagram posted by @apinks somewhere else - helped me. After PP install all other functions are working (no wake, cruise), the system turns on/off with ignition.

BTW - this red/yellow wire shown in the diagram from the switch does not connect through to any wiring in the wire harness from the boat. So, even if you (accidentally) pull it from the connector (at the bottom) - nothing happens.

And one more thing. I don't know how you all feel about using these wire-tapping devices that come in the PP package... Call me old school, but for me these are times that my soldering gun gets a little workout.
 

jarozi

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I installed my Perfect Pass today and have a question about default position of the servo and throttle. I think I have mine wrong and want to confirm. When I fired up the perfect pass it roped in the L bracket to the home position which leaves my throttle slightly open. I assume I don't want this to happen, that I need to adjust the cables so that when the PP starts up the L bracket is as close to the knob as it can get (home), and my throttle potentiometer is closed. That right? Thanks!
 

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djsquid

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Correct, just loosen the cable a bit until the potentiometer is just closed. Be sure you take the two 10mm wrenches with you when you take it out on the water for the first couple of times so you can make your fine tuning adjustments of your throttles. The throttle cable tension is how you "dial-in" your perfect pass so both port and starboard engines are in perfect synch.
 

sysinu

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One thing to note... some people don't have enough slack in their line and don't realize that you can also flip the brass L bracket over to get some extra room. I almost had to do that with my install but luckily I was able to just move where I mounted the unit to get some slack. Note... always look where you're drilling. I ended up going through my fresh water shower line like a newb on accident and had to replace it.
 

jarozi

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Thanks for that tip. I only have about 1mm of adjustment with the L bracket in the default position and I haven't tested on the water yet.
 

InmyElement

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Thank You for this thread it has been very insightful...I purchased the PP during the last group buy, so I'm starting slow and taking my time and planning it out. I have the speedo dial in nice snug fit and I mounted the gps with a nice gap in the console for the wire to feed through. I've also mounted the module. So next is routing the servo cables and mounting the servos...whew..I also have 2 yellow/reds coming from both ignitions that are empty(female connector), like they planned on us needing power. So I'm going to use that for my power...unless someone objects?
Question: Can I connect the gps, power, and gauge and just use it for speed now, until I get the servos hooked up? Or will it give me errors or I surely don't want to fry anything? Any insight would be helpful..
Thanks Again
 

Pbirbeck

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Here's a couple of install pics from our shop. I'll ask the tech to notate any tips that might be useful.


What model and year Yamaha is that you're working on? Original post says that it's not available for 2015 Yamahas.
 

swatski

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Thank You for this thread it has been very insightful...I purchased the PP during the last group buy, so I'm starting slow and taking my time and planning it out. I have the speedo dial in nice snug fit and I mounted the gps with a nice gap in the console for the wire to feed through. I've also mounted the module. So next is routing the servo cables and mounting the servos...whew..I also have 2 yellow/reds coming from both ignitions that are empty(female connector), like they planned on us needing power. So I'm going to use that for my power...unless someone objects?
Question: Can I connect the gps, power, and gauge and just use it for speed now, until I get the servos hooked up? Or will it give me errors or I surely don't want to fry anything? Any insight would be helpful..
Thanks Again
I would call PP with the last one, I don't know if anyone tried that here. Can not imagine it would be an issue though, as you get GPS speed reading with the PP "SYSTEM OFF" just fine.
 

InmyElement

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Thanks for the replies..oh I didn't know you get a reading when its off, that's why the GPS doesn't have to reacquire every time from what I have read. I'll test the yl/rd leads today for voltage.
Thanks

2016 212X
 

djsquid

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I strongly suggest you use the purple power lead and the black ground lead at the back of your port tachometer for your permanent installation. The power lead from the master control module is purple to encourage you to do that. I temporary tapped the ignition yellow during installation so I could turn it on and have it stay on while I was doing tests during installation in the driveway. But the PP control, GPS, servos, and heat syncs are very power hungry and you only want them on when the motors are running (like the tachometers).
 

0627Devildog

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So. . . Are you guys installing this in the water or on the trailer? Any pros/cons to in water install?
 

robbo3

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I did mine in the garage, which allowed me to do the install after work over a few nights and not worry about the weather. It also put me within close proximity to any tools I needed.

There's no reason you couldn't do the install on the water though. Go with what's convenient for you.
 

djsquid

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Ditto on the out of water install. You will just need to fine tune the throttle synchronization a bit on the water your first few times out.
 
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0627Devildog

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So. . . . . I just picked up the PP System from @Bruce . . . . . and realized:

1. He has an 07' AR230
2. The 07' PP system mounts to the Engine NOT the sidewall as in the 2010's +

SO. . . . my question is will a system designed for a pre 2010 work on a 2014? I am really not willing to make any modifications to the system.

This looks an awful lot like the one that mounts directly to the engine and NOT the firewall.20160802_190133.jpg
 
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