Trim Tabs - options - wake surfing (and cruising)

[Beachbummer]

How is your steering affected by adjusting for uneven load? I just installed a compact lenco set I had bought for a different boat years ago and never got the guts to install. It's on my sx230 now, got a chance to try it for just a bit on Sunday.

The tabs are small 4x12 but have much more effect on the boat than I need. I opted for the smaller tabs to retain my reverse and to keep the tabs away from the swim platform. I noticed when I use them to even the load (purposefully moved people to the wrong side for testing) that I can level the boat, but it requires counter steering to keep the boat tracking straight... Which makes sense except I did not expect this at all.

Is it just me, or does anyone else need some steering wheel input to keep the boat straight if addressing a large uneven load with the tabs?

Thanks!!!

 

[Bruce]

@Beachbummer when you put a tab down lower to raise a more heavily loaded side it creates more braking on that side. You will need to adjust steering any time the tabs are not equally deployed.

 

[Beachbummer]

Thanks, this seems intuitive now, but it caught me off guard.

I have the non springed Cobra fins, I may lower the fin further to increase steering effect at speed.

Thanks!!!

 

[myblueheaven305]

Ordered my Trim Tabs from LectroTab today.. I am excited to see the difference when in the Atlantic Ocean...

 

[swatski]

Thanks, this seems intuitive now, but it caught me off guard.

I have the non springed Cobra fins, I may lower the fin further to increase steering effect at speed.

Thanks!!!

What @Bruce says is 100% correct, but I have not noticed much of an issue with that in my experience.
Granted, I have Cobra AKs set down at speed, and the keel, so the boat feel like it rides on rails to start with.

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[swatski]

Ordered my Trim Tabs from LectroTab today.. I am excited to see the difference when in the Atlantic Ocean...

Man, you will love it.
Let me know if you need any info or better pics. Also - if you have any FRP (fiberglass) cutouts (for example - from a speaker install project etc) - those are great for practice. I found that paring a drill bit with the screw (for through hull mounting) can be tricky. The issue is, FRP is so different that wood or metal or anything else - and even tiny differences in the hole diameter will make a big difference. So matching the drill and the screw size is tricky (too small a hole and you are cracking it, too large and you are in danger of stripping or screws not holding).

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[Bruce]

If I were installing trim tabs again I would consider stainless self tapping screws.

 

[zipper]

Like @swatski said, practice makes perfect. Also the 3m 5200 is a water sealer and adhesive around each screw and the mounting face of the tab. Clean the mounting location before including wax removal. And good luck if you ever try to get them off.

 

[myblueheaven305]

Man, you will love it.
Let me know if you need any info or better pics. Also - if you have any FRP (fiberglass) cutouts (for example - from a speaker install project etc) - those are great for practice. I found that paring a drill bit with the screw (for through hull mounting) can be tricky. The issue is, FRP is so different that wood or metal or anything else - and even tiny differences in the hole diameter will make a big difference. So matching the drill and the screw size is tricky (too small a hole and you are cracking it, too large and you are in danger of stripping or screws not holding). @zipper @Bruce

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Thanks for the advice.. I will give to the person that will install the trim tabs for me.. I do not have anyplace to work on my boat plus this job may be to big for my first project..

 

[FloJet]

Just ordered my set today too! I'm so pumped up. First mod project of the winter, than Ridesteady and stereo upgrade.

 

[Jack Long]

Swatski

where did you run the wires through the boat? Just drill a hole? Do you have a pic?

TY

 

[swatski]

Swatski

where did you run the wires through the boat? Just drill a hole? Do you have a pic?

TY

Yes, the base of the actuator has a hole/pass through - for that purpose. All my through-hull and self tapping screws were embedded in fresh (regular) 3M 5200.
I just have this one picture - really bad, taken w/flash! - to show you where the cable runs through the actuator base/foot and into the hull.
(The white stuff is actually T9 Boeshield protectant which I use liberally - great stuff, it just looks like crud).
Here it is - let me know if this is it?



Did you want some pics of where I ran the cables inside the boat? Basically - routed under the swim platform and up the strbd side gunnel along the factory harness, partially loomed where they would bend (if touching raw fiberglass).

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[FloJet]

Yes, the base of the actuator has a hole/pass through - for that purpose. All my through-hull and self tapping screws were embedded in fresh (regular) 3M 5200.
I just have this one picture - really bad, taken w/flash! - to show you where the cable runs through the actuator base/foot and into the hull.
(The white stuff is actually T9 Boeshield protectant which I use liberally - great stuff, it just looks like crud).
Here it is - let me know if this is it?

View attachment 64647

Did you want some pics of where I ran the cables inside the boat? Basically - routed under the swim platform and up the strbd side gunnel along the factory harness, partially loomed where they would bend (if touching raw fiberglass).

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It would be helpful yes. I do too need to see how the wires go from the transom thru the back platform hull. Seems like tight spacing and not sure best route to get the wires to at least the engine bay? I will doing this install in next few weeks too.
Thanks

 

[Scottintexas]

@Jack Long
did you see this post from our FAQ tab at the top of the page, it has another installation,
https://jetboaters.net/faq/how-to-make-your-boat-ride-smoother-trim-tabs.10/

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Added this post to FAQ
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[swatski]

It would be helpful yes. I do too need to see how the wires go from the transom thru the back platform hull. Seems like tight spacing and not sure best route to get the wires to at least the engine bay? I will doing this install in next few weeks too.
Thanks

Yeah, I hear you! The access under swim platform in the 2015+ hull is... basically (almost) none.
Unless you literally cut out your own access hatches, which I would not do, you can hardly reach anything there. Here is the pic of the tie down U-bolt on the inside - shot with my hand squeezed inside the compartment through the cleanout hatch (and then the outside - same spot - the pic below, both strbd). As you can see, it is completely out of reach on the inside.



I run the cables, partially loomed, inside the strbd gunnel but I have a lot of wires... including ballast etc. Taking cup holders out helps.


Going over the fuel tank is relatively easy, too. I loom everything there and then use a pool noodle to prevent any chafing and rattling.



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[zipper]

@FloJet A few more pics to add, different year but same concept. The actuator base mount to the swim platform is triangular with an angled hole in the middle of the 3 mounting holes. Once you have mounted

that base, pull the bolt releasing the actuator so you can drill the hole for the wire/vent cable. You will need to pull the clean out plug tray to run your cable from there. I ran mine to starboard under the tray and found an opening to the storage area, under my stereo remote, and from there tie wrapped them to the existing wiring run that runs forward to the helm. I hope this is helpful.

 

[FloJet]

@FloJet A few more pics to add, different year but same concept. The actuator base mount to the swim platform is triangular with an angled hole in the middle of the 3 mounting holes. Once you have mounted

that base, pull the bolt releasing the actuator so you can drill the hole for the wire/vent cable.View attachment 64670 You will need to pull the clean out plug tray to run your cable from there.View attachment 64671 I ran mine to starboard under the tray and found an opening to the storage area, under my stereo remote, and from there tie wrapped them to the existing wiring run that runs forward to the helm. I hope this is helpful.

Ok great. Thank you for that. I totally forgot about the access hole right there between the plugs. I should have looked more closely. Planing my route of install this weekend. But I have not received the tabs yet tho.

 

[Beachbummer]

I used ziptie anchors, attached with double side tape to guide my wires down there, making sure they do not rest on the exhaust pieces.

 

[swatski]

Ok great. Thank you for that. I totally forgot about the access hole right there between the plugs. I should have looked more closely. Planing my route of install this weekend. But I have not received the tabs yet tho.

Right. Unscrew that whole tray, not just open the hatch. You can reseal later with a bead of silicone. Several screws will be already stripped (from factory), this seems to be par for the course...

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[zipper]

Right. Unscrew that whole tray, not just open the hatch. You can reseal later with a bead of silicone. Several screws will be already stripped (from factory), this seems to be par for the course...

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Funny you said that...I had at least 4 of mine that were stripped or too close to an edge, as seen in my previous post pics., I re-bedded the area with 5200, let it dry and redrilled, able to fix a few of them.