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Turtle Wax Hybrid Solutions Graphene

I was hoping (not shocked that it didn't) but didn't know what to expect. Was counting on more shine though...
shine is a REALLY tough thing to quantify. The absolute best shines come from defect free paint and there's no amount of product that can make up for that. The shine on my boat isn't due to the ceramic coating that I have on it. It'll help preserve that shine, but it does very little to produce it. There are some waxes/sealants that have fillers. Which will help fill in the defects and give you the appearance of a more defect free paint. There's a WHOLE science to shine. Makes me wanna go and find one of the videos where one of the kings in the detailing industries explains it. 20201024_124957 (1).jpg
 
shine is a REALLY tough thing to quantify. The absolute best shines come from defect free paint and there's no amount of product that can make up for that. The shine on my boat isn't due to the ceramic coating that I have on it. It'll help preserve that shine, but it does very little to produce it. There are some waxes/sealants that have fillers. Which will help fill in the defects and give you the appearance of a more defect free paint. There's a WHOLE science to shine. Makes me wanna go and find one of the videos where one of the kings in the detailing industries explains it. View attachment 140466
I would love for my boat to look like yours. You have a set of skills, equipment and patience I do not have. That's why I try (and keep trying) to find products that'll "get me close". I love that clean and smooth feel on both the boat and my car afterwards. Just wish it would last longer.
 
I dont think that the Turtlewax Flex is intended to be a polish. Its a graphene infused wax that is supposed to accent shine and provide protection. It has no abrasion or cleaning qualities that I have read about. I have used the One and Done compound by Turtlewax, and it does a great job at polishing, but it does not protect. The name can be misleading because it does not mean one and done polish and wax, but rather, based on the pad you use, can vary the degree of abrasion. I have never found a polish/.wax compound that was that great. I have tried Maguires, Mothers, to name a few. It can either be a great wax or a great polish....not sure any brand truly has a great one step polish/wax.
 
I dont think that the Turtlewax Flex is intended to be a polish. Its a graphene infused wax that is supposed to accent shine and provide protection. It has no abrasion or cleaning qualities that I have read about. I have used the One and Done compound by Turtlewax, and it does a great job at polishing, but it does not protect. The name can be misleading because it does not mean one and done polish and wax, but rather, based on the pad you use, can vary the degree of abrasion. I have never found a polish/.wax compound that was that great. I have tried Maguires, Mothers, to name a few. It can either be a great wax or a great polish....not sure any brand truly has a great one step polish/wax.
Try Griot's One Step with a random orbital buffer.
 
Waterspots generally have to be removed either chemically, with some form of acid wash, or mechanically(polished off with a buffer/compound). Were you expecting waterspots to be removed with this product?

Really? Waterspots generally come off for me with a single wipe of hot sauce - unless we're talking about those scary magnifying glass burned waterspots from the Turtle Wax informercials back in the 90s.
 
Really? Waterspots generally come off for me with a single wipe of hot sauce - unless we're talking about those scary magnifying glass burned waterspots from the Turtle Wax informercials back in the 90s.
Hot sauce is a water spot remover. So it's the chemical removal which I mentioned.
 
Hot Sauce has some ability to remove non-bonded / superficial water spots via its mild acid content (see the sheets at their website), and it is also a detailer that helps conceal the appearance of water spots. Essentially, it hopes to take the place of washing the hull. I have never used it, but I am in salt water so washing the hull and everything else (along with flushing with an anti-salt solution - I also spray the hull and interior with it) is required.

I can see how it would suffice for fresh water users trying to avoid having to wash their hull after being in hard fresh water or after washing their boat with hard water.
 
Hot Sauce has some ability to remove non-bonded / superficial water spots via its mild acid content (see the sheets at their website), and it is also a detailer that helps conceal the appearance of water spots. Essentially, it hopes to take the place of washing the hull. I have never used it, but I am in salt water so washing the hull and everything else (along with flushing with an anti-salt solution - I also spray the hull and interior with it) is required.

I can see how it would suffice for fresh water users trying to avoid having to wash their hull after being in hard fresh water or after washing their boat with hard water.
I grew up in salt, so I hand wash/rinse everything after every outing. Old habits die hard.
 
Anyone had any experience with 303 with Graphene? Love the 303 products and this one may be part of this springs cleaning routine.
 
Well, since no one else has seemed to have tried it and I'm a 303 junkie, I bought a spray bottle and gave it a shot.

So, I was a little leery about how much is enough for my 242LS but the 24oz spray bottle was WAY plenty. After washing and waxing the whole boat I added the 303 with a microfiber sponge. Sprayed the sponge till it was wet and then applied it to the hull and most anything else exposed to the elements . It does not take a lot and It goes on real easy and very smooth. I maybe resprayed the sponge 3-4xs over the whole boat including the underneath of the hull. I barley used 3oz out of that bottle I'm guessing. Then I waited for it to "haze" up.

So I started with a orbital buffer and clean pads but this is where is got difficult. The buffer didn't do a very good job of removing it so I had to switch to a microfiber towel and do it all by hand. I was exhausted afterwards. Since it went on soooo easily, I made sure to put it everywhere. Yea...not smart in hindsight LOL! It dries/hazes to a a bit of sticky consistency and that makes it tougher to get off. And it really doesn't add much to the before shine. This is straight protectant.

My black wake tower was looking pretty dull and hazy. So I did clean it, added a coat of wax then finished it with the Graphene and it looks brand new and shiny again. Hoping the graphene will help keep it looking new and help the wax from the heat and sunlight year round.

I can say that there has to be some electrostatic properties because as I was removing it with the microfiber towel the hairs on my arms where standing straight up and you could feel the static electricity on the boat. After I was 3 beers in and finished with the had removal of the graphene I decided to spray the hull and see what it would do. Exactly what I thought. The water bounced right off and was gone. Very few beading and what did bead up was done quickly. Took a shammy to it but there wasn't really much to wipe up.

Conclusion:
1) My arms and shoulders are sore lol..
2) Don't expect this to add shine or luster to your boat. The Graphene is a protectant and not so much a shiny detailer. You should have your boat spotless before applying.
3) It does seem to be very good at repelling water, dust etc from the electrostatic properties. I'm guess water spots on the black hull should be very minimal this year.
4) Besides the water hose test in the driveway, I just don't have any data or real world experience with it yet so I cant say if its great or it sucks.

I wont be able to get the boat in the water for about 2 weeks. I'll check back in with an update afterwards and let ya know what I find or experience.
Video's so far on this product are impressive.

Basically, easy on, tough coming off. Sorry, after writing this I realized I really didn't contribute much.

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Left side is Graphene removed, Right side is still hazed .


NIZLZVFTQmeCtlbwo0+%sQ.jpg
All dressed up and ready for the lake. and yes, that cover was clean but the pollen here in Ga is vicious right now lol
 
Not sure but one of the graphene products suggests you wipe with a damp cloth first
 
shine is a REALLY tough thing to quantify. The absolute best shines come from defect free paint and there's no amount of product that can make up for that. The shine on my boat isn't due to the ceramic coating that I have on it. It'll help preserve that shine, but it does very little to produce it. There are some waxes/sealants that have fillers. Which will help fill in the defects and give you the appearance of a more defect free paint. There's a WHOLE science to shine. Makes me wanna go and find one of the videos where one of the kings in the detailing industries explains it. View attachment 140466

Apparently you like the ceramic coatings. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Any concerns in the long term?
I waxed it with Meguiars marine wax once after buying it a year ago. No issues and no water spot problems, but I’m sure it could look better. I also don’t want to do anything that will make it high maintenance either. When we get home I flush and wash with the turtle wash/wax, dry and put away. That’s enough work right there. ?
 
Apparently you like the ceramic coatings. What are the advantages/disadvantages? Any concerns in the long term?
I waxed it with Meguiars marine wax once after buying it a year ago. No issues and no water spot problems, but I’m sure it could look better. I also don’t want to do anything that will make it high maintenance either. When we get home I flush and wash with the turtle wash/wax, dry and put away. That’s enough work right there. ?
I personally like ceramic coatings for the longevity of protection. I rarely recommend them for anyone that isn't going to be militant about taking care of it properly. And anyone that requests me to install one has to convince me they'll take care of it properly. Otherwise it's just a waste of my time and product. A good synthetic sealant will work for 99.9% of people.
 
A good synthetic sealant will work for 99.9% of people.
What would you recommend? Sorry if you've already stated it. :oops:
 
They call this a "wax", but it's a polymer of sort chemically.


I've heard good results from folks here about rejex, just never personally used it. I've used the above before back in the day.
I use Rejex and have commented on it here. I like it. But, seeing how you're a pro (I am not), I was wondering what you thought. Thanks for the tip (I'll try anything once...)
 
Used Turtle Wax One and Done graphene. Took out rub marks and water spots followed by the graphene infused wax. Followed suggested method using a damp microfiber first then a dry one. Worked very well and easy to use!
 

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Sorry, after writing this I realized I really didn't contribute much.

Shaddup, ya doorknob, you gave info no one else did, that's called "contributing". Stop being such a girl ?

I know you said you waited for it to "haze over", about how long would you say? Was it the "did the whole boat, then started removing in the same order I applied it", or what?

I wish I had the same type of paint as your tower has. Mine has that not-quite-PlastiDip-but-not-a-glossy-paint type of finish, kinda bumpy-ish, like a wall paint with the wrong nap on the roller. I'm wondering just what that paint is. I've had a ton of bugs on mine in the past, and I'm thinking a wax would change the finish/look of the tower, especially if it wasn't applied/removed evenly. If I could match it with PlastiDip, I'd be REALLY tempted to paint it to match the blue of my boat.

I'm like @swatski in that I use the Klasse (still have some left for the car), but have used Rejex for the boat. The neighbor gave me some Hot Sauce, and I was reluctant to use it at first, but after that first use, I was sold. Like @Dean P , I'm looking for something that takes a modicum of my time, and returns decent results, and Rejex fits that bill for me.

The main thing I've been hating is the water spots all over my glass. There doesn't seem to be any magic potion for that, and it's one of the few things that really gets under my skin. I've got something I'll be testing out, applying it this weekend, and I'm hoping that makes it slightly easier to remove spots from the glass. Does the 303 stuff say it can be used on glass? I like 303 myself, it really seems like they've been branching out a ton lately, and they've got a good track record with me thus far.
 
Reading back thru what I posted, I realized I should update the use on the car. The bottle suggested doing a good BASE coat. I wash and dried the entire car. The directions stated 2 sprays per section (I think I did 8-10; wanted a really good base!). It did take me awhile but I buffed it all off and love the shine and how it feels (on the back of my fingers). Was actually like putting on regular wax and then (hand) buffing. Few weeks later, following the directions, washed the car and while still wet I sprayed each section about 4-5 sprays and then rinsed it off. Upon wiping/drying, I noticed it was just like applying the base coat all over again. Took a long time buffing it off to get to that "shine" and "softness" I like. My next attempt with this stuff, I will ONLY apply the 2 sprays (like the direction stated; and not think I know better LOL) while wet and then dry. I think it'll be much easier and less tiresome than my previous washings.

Lesson learned: follow the directions or be prepared for sore arms. I do not own a buffer; I'm old school. :cool::p :banghead:
 
I applied Rejex last spring and want to apply another coat this spring. Do I need to do anything other than wash my boat before applying another coat?
 
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