Warm water from Bilge.....on the water need some help.

[2kwik4u]

Do you think a pilot water hose from exhaust got disconnected inside? Possibly where it exits the hull?

I don't think it's the "pisser" hose. The rear compartment that the hose runs over has been consistently dry.

My current best guess is a hose in the rear compartment coming off the exhaust. Gotta open 'er up to find out though.

 

[2kwik4u]

Went and channeled my inner google and found the water pressure thread.

https://jetboaters.net/threads/cooling-water-pressures.3202/

@buckbuck You don't happen to still have this setup sitting around do you?

I think I might make a similar setup to test the pressure in the 1.8L while I'm in there looking for problems.

 

[WREKS]

I don't think it's the "pisser" hose. The rear compartment that the hose runs over has been consistently dry.

My current best guess is a hose in the rear compartment coming off the exhaust. Gotta open 'er up to find out though.

I don't even screw the cleanout tray down anymore, because I am checking in there all the time.

 

[2kwik4u]

I don't even screw the cleanout tray down anymore, because I am checking in there all the time.

How do you seal the tube to the tray? Any problems with leakage on a big scale?

 

[WREKS]

How do you seal the tube to the tray? Any problems with leakage on a big scale?

On my 2007 SX, the tray is shaped to nest inside the cleanout tubes. I pull it out when I want to inspect the area below, and put it back when I am done. I see no need to attach the water tube to the tray. Nor do I I see any value in sealing or screwing the tray in place. That area gets wet just from rain water, but it drains out. Anyway, I often lift the lid and remove the tray to dry it out. otherwise it would always be damp in there. It has worked for me, however, it may be different for your boat.

 

[2kwik4u]

Ok, another update.

Yanked the rear tray tonight and looked around. Tray came out rather easily. Much less work than I thought.


Looked around, nothing looks obviously out of place. Started feeling around each joint on the exhaust system. That's really all that's back here that could create a hot water stream. Noticed the connection coming OUT of the water box was wet on the bottom, and the cockpit drain hose had what looked like water spray on it.


So, I pulled this connection apart and cleaned the sealing surfaces, and put it back together. No idea if this was what was really causing the issue, but it's the best I can guess at this point. Here's the cleaned and resealed connection.



I'm taking tools out with me tomorrow in case I need to repair something on the water. Hopefully I don't and this fixes the problem. Going to take earplugs and a flashlight as well, so I can troubleshoot on the water if needed.

More updates as they arise.

 

[2kwik4u]

Oh.....one last thing.

When I put the rear tray back in, I did not put any sealant between the tray and the big tube the clean out plug sits in. Should I have siliconed this interface? I put a bead of extra flexible silicone around the tray and under the head of each screw, but only used the hose clamp on this connection, as well as the tray drain connection.

Thoughts?

 

[Beachbummer]

Last time I went in here I used door sealing weatherstrip from the hardware store so I did not have to break a silicone seal when I need to access again. So far so good. I am not a fan of securing this panel with Silicone myself.

 

[2kwik4u]

Last time I went in here I used door sealing weatherstrip from the hardware store so I did not have to break a silicone seal when I need to access again. So far so good. I am not a fan of securing this panel with Silicone myself.

I like that idea. Might do that for the next round.

Was considering putting PEM inserts on the backside as well so the screws have something to bite into and actually pull the tray down right.

 

[Beachbummer]

I glued aluminum strips all along and re-drilled holes.

I have the opposite suggestion for you... Leave open, and be ready to look inside the hatch with the engine running in the water. If you tie it well to the dock, and hit 3000+ rpm any leak will likely reveal itself... Then screw it back on loosely as best you can for that outing and close up at home later.

Just a thought.

 

[WREKS]

@ Chad Tindall has a similar problem with water in the bilge. "Excessive Water In Engine Compartment."

 

[2kwik4u]

4 hours added to the clock today. Everything from idleing through a cover, full power top speed run (hit 45 by myself), and even towed another disabled boat in to the dock. Sat at anchor for probably 4.5-5 hrs with the boys in/out of the water over the real platform.

Almost ZERO water from the bilge at the ramp.

I'm catiously optimistic this solved the issue. Need a couple more runs to verify, but initial results are good.

 

[suke]

Gotta love those free repairs.

 

[2kwik4u]

Spent Sunday and Monday on the water. Another 3-4hrs of engine run time each day. Pulled a tube, ran from a rainstorm, lots of idling, lots of high power runs. No warm water from the bilge. I'm calling this one a win, and solved.

I'm also considering myself rather fortunate that it was only a loose connection.

 

[2kwik4u]

Well......had a good day going......had, operative word there.

Got on the water and ran over to the dam to swim for a bit. Kids got fussy so we went to tube. Drug the tube around at 20-24mph for about 30-40 min. Probably 5-6 mi, it was a good run. We stopped to change out riders, and had to get a vest from the ski locker. Found about 10-12in deep of scalding hot water in there. Immediately shut off the engine and checked the engine bay, water almost up to the oil pan that was too hot to keep my hand in for more than a second. Scalding hot water.

So, now I have TWO problems. Bilge pump is either clogged or otherwise broken, AND I have a LOT of hot water in the bilge.

Cut the day short and put it on the trailer as quick as we could. Would've kept going if the bilge was working, but with no way to get the water out I wasn't going to risk flooding the boat and being stranded.

Leaving tomorrow for 10days out of town for work. Debating on leaving it with the dealership and saying "just fix it". Blech, stupid boat.

 

[WREKS]

There is a section of fiberglass that has a ton of water droplets like It's been sprayed. It's also just forward of the manifold and under the oil filter.

Going back to your original post: It seems to manifest itself at higher RPMs. Water seems to be heated by hot exhaust gases.

 

[2kwik4u]

@WREKS I 100% agree. Today was the first time that I had a lot of thrust, a high load and relatively low speed. This points to a "high pressure" leak in the cooling system.

Not sure if the water is heated by exhaust pressure or by the engine block itself, but it was hot enough that I have red spots on my fingers from submerging them in the water in an attempt to mess with the bilge pump.

I think I'll have to test the bilge in the driveway before my trip and replace if necessary. Then put a pressure gauge on the cooling line and run it and see what I get. Will have to get another driver, some ear muffs and a mechanical mirror and just drive it around the lake a bit to see if I can see where the leak is coming from.

Dang boats!

 

[WREKS]

Like a cooling leak in the exhaust gasket or manifold or hose coming from in that area-sprays hot water and immediately dries up. It probably has to be in the water to test at higher rpms.

 

[2kwik4u]

Like a cooling leak in the exhaust gasket or manifold or hose coming from in that area-sprays hot water and immediately dries up. It probably has to be in the water to test at higher rpms.

I agree.

Going to be 2 weekends before I can get out and test.

Once I have the bilge pump sorted, then I've got another family that is willing to go out with us to test. Going to try and mimic the high loads and RPM of today, with another driver so I can nose around on the boat and figure out where it's coming from.

Before that I might attempt the test in the driveway with a higher pressure water source, and the input line from the pump blocked off to force the high pressure through the engine and not let it "backflow" out of the intake.

 

[WREKS]

If the engine is running that sounds good. However, If the engine is not running and there is a breach in the cooling system that extends into the exhaust, water could also be forced into the cylinder affected by the breach.