Warm water from Bilge.....on the water need some help.

[2kwik4u]

Without rereading the entire thread, are the clamps on the waterboxes still good & tight?

I checked those when I was under the cleanout tray a few month ago. by "checked" I mean I simply ran my hand across them, they were present, and they wouldn't move with hand pressure.

I've had the thought of yanking the tray again, and removing everything, cleaning all the interfaces, inspecting, and reassembling just to "check it out". That method of "take it apart and reassemble" has fixed a countless number of things in my past.

 

[Beachbummer]

Any chance the water is tricking to the bilge from the anchor locker? some leak in front of the boat? seam in the rear?I think the highest pressures for cooling and in neutral and reverse due to the pump flow being blocked by the gate. If nothing leaks in reverse at 5000RPMs It's not cooling flow. maybe suspended newspaper taped to suspect parts to confirm it's dry while on a quick test run? (Don't set the boat on fire either) I like your approach that this is a nuisance that shouldn't keep you too concerned, but I would recommend right away a second bilge pump and a float if not already installed to give you redundancy in this area.

 

[Sean R]

I know this isn't your issue but I have had a water issue that took me awhile to figure out. I towed my old 18' ft Searay from MI to GA and didn't realize my trailer boards were starting to rot and during the 700 mile journey the bracket that holds the board was pounding a hole thru the hull. More of a crack. We would go out and the bilge would always run not constantly but more than before, I was crawling all over the boat and could never find anything and when it was on the trailer the hole/crack was covered my the board. I finally took it in and the mechanic lifted the boat with a fork truck and found the issue instantly. Fortunately it was covered buy insurance. All that being said my recently sold 2017 Ar190 trailer bunks/boards were rotten and had to replace this spring. Also what is crazy the same day another guy with a 2017 FS190 was replacing his trailer boards the same day at our marine.

 

[2kwik4u]

Any chance the water is tricking to the bilge from the anchor locker? some leak in front of the boat? seam in the rear?I think the highest pressures for cooling and in neutral and reverse due to the pump flow being blocked by the gate. If nothing leaks in reverse at 5000RPMs It's not cooling flow. maybe suspended newspaper taped to suspect parts to confirm it's dry while on a quick test run? (Don't set the boat on fire either) I like your approach that this is a nuisance that shouldn't keep you too concerned, but I would recommend right away a second bilge pump and a float if not already installed to give you redundancy in this area.

There is another thread that shows some of the cooling system pressures. They are higher than I expected, and that was what prompted the pressure gage installation, so I could watch and then recreate on the hose at home (by blocking off outlets), just haven't gotten there yet.

I'm like 99% certain it's coming from the cooling system. The water doesn't have enough "dwell time" to pickup heat from something else and be coming in from outside the boat. If it was an anchor locker (The 190's don't have those drains BTW, our anchor area drains to the ski locker)), or other hull seam, then the water wouldn't be this hot. Even on the first run of the day, the water is hot enough to almost scald you. SO it's coming from the engine AFTER cooling the engine off. If it was just sitting around the water box, or intermediate bearing then it would have to be there much longer to heat up. It's also ALWAYS warmer than lake water. Even with lake water in the high 80's the water out of the bilge pump outlet (or under the engine) is scalding hot.

I REALLY think it's coming from the back of the cylinder head on the far side of thermostat. Somewhere between the T-stat and the thru-hull back there, but I've pulled that line and inspected it fairly closely for crack and the clamps are tight.

 

[Babin Farms]

I I were closer to you I would come help you solve this issue.
Do you have any spare hose and clamps on the boat in case a line totally blows while your out on the water?

 

[2kwik4u]

I I were closer to you I would come help you solve this issue.

Appreciate the offer. I really just need to carve out the time to get some good testing done. 9yr old, 2yr old, and a promotion at work are keeping my waking hours pretty full. By the time I get around to doing something "I want to do" I'm out of energy and ready for bed.

Do you have any spare hose and clamps on the boat in case a line totally blows while your out on the water?

I have a small tool kit with some spare clamps. No spare hose though. Have a number of tools, and some flex-seal tape I could probably fashion a hose to get me back to the shoreline if something went REALLY south on me.

 

[Julian]

Appreciate the offer. I really just need to carve out the time to get some good testing done. 9yr old, 2yr old, and a promotion at work are keeping my waking hours pretty full. By the time I get around to doing something "I want to do" I'm out of energy and ready for bed.


I have a small tool kit with some spare clamps. No spare hose though. Have a number of tools, and some flex-seal tape I could probably fashion a hose to get me back to the shoreline if something went REALLY south on me.

Should be pretty easy to find if you can get another person to help you. What I'd do is take my phone (water resistant model), turn on the camera to video with the light on, and stick it in the bilge while running (yes you'll have to over ride the kill switch in the hatch), reach in and slowly move it around all the hoses (same in the engine compartment - but I assume you've already done that). Then review the video and see if you can see where its leaking. Some have suggested using baby powder to help trace flow...but that sounds messy to me! I'll bet you'll find it with your phone.

 

[2kwik4u]

Should be pretty easy to find if you can get another person to help you. What I'd do is take my phone (water resistant model), turn on the camera to video with the light on, and stick it in the bilge while running (yes you'll have to over ride the kill switch in the hatch), reach in and slowly move it around all the hoses (same in the engine compartment - but I assume you've already done that). Then review the video and see if you can see where its leaking. Some have suggested using baby powder to help trace flow...but that sounds messy to me! I'll bet you'll find it with your phone.

I attempted this same concept with a GoPro and an LED Flashlight. GoPro lense wasn't short focused enough to capture much. The angle was too large and aimed poorly. I've defeated the switch on the rear hatch before for other troubleshooting video's, that's not hard. The hard part is putting a vest on and running 40+mph down the lake while sitting on the swim platform with my video device in hand.

I've considered removing the rear bulkheads and climbing through the storage compartment while underway. I have shooting muffs and plugs for my ears, safety glasses for my eyes, but I'm just a shade scared of being STUCK in a storage compartment when hauling butt down the lake. Otherwise I would've already gone through with it.

The "crawl through the compartment" might just be what needs to happen, and I'll have to make sure there's a stiff drink waiting for me when I climb back out.

I do 100% agree that getting eyes on the components back there WHILE UNDERWAY is the best way to find the leak. The fact that it only happens under high loads (WOT, or while pulling a tube) makes it dificult. If it was leaking at idle I would've already done all these things, I just have some fear of doing them at speed. Perhaps, I just need to grow a pair, or have a few drinks before I start that process.

 

[hapyfishrmn]

I'll volunteer to drive the boat while your crawling into the back!

 

[2kwik4u]

I'll volunteer to drive the boat while your crawling into the back!

Thanks man.

Have a couple volunteers for that locally as well. Most add in "I won't rock it side to side, or hit any large wakes either" on the end, while grinning from ear to ear.

 

[B0at1n]

I sat on the back lower swim deck at full speed, it was actually much easier than I thought it would be. Didn’t find anything though.
Next time your out check the plug under that exhaust, if it’s even has a little moisture on it that could be it. Maybe yours just hasn’t popped out yet like mine did.

 

[Babin Farms]

I do 100% agree that getting eyes on the components back there WHILE UNDERWAY is the best way to find the leak. The fact that it only happens under high loads (WOT, or while pulling a tube) makes it dificult. If it was leaking at idle I would've already done all these things, I just have some fear of doing them at speed. Perhaps, I just need to grow a pair, or have a few drinks before I start that process.

Just make sure you wear a lifejacket please

 

[2kwik4u]

Just make sure you wear a lifejacket please

No doubt.

I've hit the water at 30mph and had a mild concussion in my younger days. I can't imagine hitting the water at 40+ and not having a vest on.

My "have a drink before" comment above is in jest as well. I don't want to be even a little drink happy when I attempt some Evil Knievel stunt like this.

 

[Julian]

This member having a similar issue:

https://jetboaters.net/threads/2007-sx230-excessive-water-in-bilge.29571/

 

[2kwik4u]

We'll, we spent two days on the water this weekend. No change in status.......so I tore the exhaust apart when I got home today. It comes apart amazingly easy. Maybe 30-40min to get this far.



I'm hoping this "spray pattern" is a sign of where the leak is. Both clamps on this side of the resonater were tight and hadn't moved from the factory paint marks during assembly.



I think I'm going to run by the bike shop tomorrow and pickup some of the largest tubes I can find. Use one part to cap the end, then the other part with the valve to add some pressure with a bike pump. Not sure if that will work or not but I think I'm gonna try it.

Also should mention I pulled the hose from the thermostat to the thru-hull and inspected it. Nothing wrong there that I could find. I put that back together, swapping ends of the hose in case one end took a "set" and needed to be reseated. I don't think that was the issue.

Either way, we're pulling out for a labor day weekend on Thursday, it'll be back together before then and I'll have a ton of testing over the holiday.

 

[B0at1n]

I wouldn’t thing there would be much water pressure at that point of the exhaust for water to spray out.

it does looks like it’s been spraying there.

 

[2kwik4u]

Well......Time got away from me.

I never pressure tested ANY of the parts. They sat on the garage floor all week, and I hastily put them back together on Thursday night. I did "clean" them with a little degreaser/alcohol on the way back in. Made sure all the interfaces were good and clean. Then made sure each connection had the band clamps a few degrees "out" from each out. The hope was to avoid the possibility of both clamps creating a "pinch" in the tube allowing a pressure leak to form. Got it all buttoned up, and quickly tossed the rear tray back in assuming I would be back in there in short order. Ran a small bead of silicone around the edges and that's it.

Not sure how many hours I put on it this weekend, but we were out Friday from 4pm to 8pm, Saturday from 11am to 6pm, Sunday from 10am to 5pm, and Monday from 12pm to 4pm. Ran almost a full tank a fuel through the boat. I'm going to guess around 10hrs of engine run time or so. No tubing was done, but there were several "top speed runs" on each day, and we pulled me around on the skate a bit on Sunday morning. Crossed the lake multiple times. Kids were on/off the swim platform playing a ton all 4 days. Water guns, jumping from the boat, diving contest, all kinds of stuff.

Bilge NEVER ran. Not once. Not a single time. Ski locker was dry all weekend (aside from wet stuff being stowed there), and never filled with bilge water

I pulled the plugs each day, on the ramp to ensure I was getting a good downhill "drain". Had a few gallons from each plug each day. But it was "cool" lake water, not heated engine water. I still have water getting in somewhere, but I'm betting it's that stupid crap-ass designed rear storage tray access panel. I know it's not sealed well at this point, and I'm sure that's where the water is coming in at this point. Still not really enough to worry about, but more than I like.

I checked the resonator with a mirror and flashlight when we got home yesterday. I don't see any signs of additional water spray on the resonator. That makes ZERO sense to me, since the flow it AWAY from that interface, and there really shouldn't be a ton of pressure on that connection. However, I don't have any other "smoking gun" evidence to point to.

Another interesting point, and I'm unsure why this might be the case, but the witness spray (the pisser.....I really hate that term) seemed to be MUCH stronger than before. It was certainly stronger at idle than it was previously, but even just in no wake mode I could HEAR the water coming out. I have no data to back that up, and it might be placebo effect there, but it sure "feels" like that has increased in pressure.

At any rate, I'm going to call this a win. Best I can tell it was the hose connection on the downstream (exhaust) side of the resonator that was the issue. I'll continue to monitor and report back as I get more run time on it.

FYI boat has 160hrs on it at this point.

Tagging @YamahaziPilot for visibility.

 

[2kwik4u]

First trip out this season was Saturday. Put about 2 hours on the engine. Still getting warm water from the bilge after prolonged high load application. Oil level and color looks great. Ran it again with the hatch open, nothing obvious.

Almost 2yrs into this issue now

 

[WREKS]

What motor do you have, the 1800 or 1050?

 

[2kwik4u]

What motor do you have, the 1800 or 1050?

1800