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Yamaha Fogging Tech Exchange Bulletin WCA2011-003

dalcini

Jet Boat Junkie
Messages
76
Reaction score
50
Points
127
Location
Utica, Michigan
Boat Make
Yamaha
Year
2018
Boat Model
242X E-Series
Boat Length
24
I scoured the web and found a digital version of the Yamaha Tech Exchange Bulletin WCA2011-003 on engine fogging. You can D/L a copy HERE.
 
Thanks! I wish Yamaha would release something newer. That document is 13 years old and seems to have a least a few of inconsistencies:
  • Most people would do this during winterization. If you fog the engine while supplying water to them, you would then need to run the engines again to below the water out of them. Wouldn't that burn off the fogging oil?
  • For "multi-throttle bodied engines", it says to fog for a minute per throttle body. Wouldn't the fogging oil in the previous cylinders burn off during that procedure?
  • For the supercharged engines, it says to spray fogging oil into the combustion chambers directly, but not for the naturally aspirated ones. I'm guessing they meant for that step to apply for all engines, but it really is poorly structured in that case.
Which engine models are multi-throttle bodied? I have a new-to-me 2020 212X and haven't had chance to look that closely yet (don't have access to the boat right now)... And not sure if I'd know what I'm looking at if I did.

What are everyone's thoughts on skipping the throttle bodies and only spraying fogging oil into the cylinders and turning the engine over with the lanyard disconnected to spread it around? I was thinking I'd turn the engine over with the plugs out and then replace with new plugs. Any risk of fouling the new plugs with the fogging oil?

If I do fog through the throttle body, I guess I'd need to do it without water and for a short period of time to avoid overheating.
 
Fogging most times will bog or even kill the engine………..it just getting a little extra oil on the upper compression ring. This ring could corrode to cyl and break on start up. Remove plug is easy on these 4 bangers fog then turn over just a little put plugs back in to seal cyl and wait for next season.
 
@husbus, I'm pretty sure your boat has the 1.8's like mine with a single throttle body. Check out Cpt. Leon's (@Leojay) LTS videos for an excellent guide. Use your own judgment for the antifreeze portion - lots of information and opinions both ways on that.
 
Thanks! I wish Yamaha would release something newer. That document is 13 years old and seems to have a least a few of inconsistencies:
  • Most people would do this during winterization. If you fog the engine while supplying water to them, you would then need to run the engines again to below the water out of them. Wouldn't that burn off the fogging oil?
  • For "multi-throttle bodied engines", it says to fog for a minute per throttle body. Wouldn't the fogging oil in the previous cylinders burn off during that procedure?
  • For the supercharged engines, it says to spray fogging oil into the combustion chambers directly, but not for the naturally aspirated ones. I'm guessing they meant for that step to apply for all engines, but it really is poorly structured in that case.
Which engine models are multi-throttle bodied? I have a new-to-me 2020 212X and haven't had chance to look that closely yet (don't have access to the boat right now)... And not sure if I'd know what I'm looking at if I did.

What are everyone's thoughts on skipping the throttle bodies and only spraying fogging oil into the cylinders and turning the engine over with the lanyard disconnected to spread it around? I was thinking I'd turn the engine over with the plugs out and then replace with new plugs. Any risk of fouling the new plugs with the fogging oil?

If I do fog through the throttle body, I guess I'd need to do it without water and for a short period of time to avoid overheating.
The fogging while the engine is running coats the throttle body, intake tract and intake valves and isn’t going to burn off while you clear the water locks of excess water. You pull the spark plugs and fog the cylinders directly after the intake tract has been fogged. As the bulletin states this is especially true for boats used in salt water.

To the best of my knowledge the 1.8L and 1049cc engines have a single throttle body, I think the MR-1 engines had separate throttle bodies for each cylinder? I’m relatively sure you have the TR-1 engines in your boat which are normally aspirated and have a single throttle valve.

While it appears that fogging the cylinders directly is only for the SC engines, I believe it means that both the NA and SC engines get this step as the previous steps are talking about the differences between the SC and NA intake tracts. I agree a few extra words would make that instruction clearer.

You can get some extra long straws / tubes for the fogging oil, as you spray the fogging oil into the cylinders directly angle the straw / tube around so that the oil is sprayed around inside the cylinder. I agree with pulling the lanyard and rolling the engine over a few times to spread the oil around and help get some of the oil into the rings.

Keep the old plugs in until after the first outing of the season to use them for burning off the fogging oil.
 
The 2019 owners manual doesn't explicitly mention it, but from the looks in the pictures, the 210 has the TR-1s while your 212 has the 1.8s. This is also a great resource to familiarize yourself with your new boat. I'm still reading the one for mine. Fortunately, Yamaha doesn't charge to access these.

See pages 123-130 of the 2019 210/212 manual here:
 
The fogging while the engine is running coats the throttle body, intake tract and intake valves and isn’t going to burn off while you clear the water locks of excess water. You pull the spark plugs and fog the cylinders directly after the intake tract has been fogged. As the bulletin states this is especially true for boats used in salt water.

To the best of my knowledge the 1.8L and 1049cc engines have a single throttle body, I think the MR-1 engines had separate throttle bodies for each cylinder? I’m relatively sure you have the TR-1 engines in your boat which are normally aspirated and have a single throttle valve.

While it appears that fogging the cylinders directly is only for the SC engines, I believe it means that both the NA and SC engines get this step as the previous steps are talking about the differences between the SC and NA intake tracts. I agree a few extra words would make that instruction clearer.

You can get some extra long straws / tubes for the fogging oil, as you spray the fogging oil into the cylinders directly angle the straw / tube around so that the oil is sprayed around inside the cylinder. I agree with pulling the lanyard and rolling the engine over a few times to spread the oil around and help get some of the oil into the rings.

Keep the old plugs in until after the first outing of the season to use them for burning off the fogging oil.

Thank you for the details. Sorry about delayed response. I was out camping. :)

Maybe I'm being too literal, but it doesn't seem possible to "pull the spark plugs and fog the cylinders directly after the intake tract has been fogged", and have cooling to the engine during the fogging through the throttle body... So is this what you suggest?
  1. Fog engine for 4 minutes through throttle body, with cooling supplied.
  2. Purge water from engine by revving without water supply. (Requires engine to not be totally bogged down by fogging oil.)
  3. Pull plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders. Turn engine over without starting it.
Thanks again to you and the others who replied!
 
Thank you for the details. Sorry about delayed response. I was out camping. :)

Maybe I'm being too literal, but it doesn't seem possible to "pull the spark plugs and fog the cylinders directly after the intake tract has been fogged", and have cooling to the engine during the fogging through the throttle body... So is this what you suggest?
  1. Fog engine for 4 minutes through throttle body, with cooling supplied.
  2. Purge water from engine by revving without water supply. (Requires engine to not be totally bogged down by fogging oil.)
  3. Pull plugs and spray fogging oil into cylinders. Turn engine over without starting it.
Thanks again to you and the others who replied!
Awesome hope you had a great camping trip!


Yes. But I would let the engine cool overnight before fogging the cylinders directly and reinstalling spark plugs.
 
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