100hr service - DIY. ??? Tips, Tricks, Pics welcome

[Farny]

About to do my 100hr service on 2020 195s. Ordered the kit from @JetBoatPilot, just need to set aside the time this week. Planning on following the owners manual checklist. Appreciate any tips, tricks, and pics anyone has to share.

Questions:

1- Are there any additional lube points to pay attention to? The manual refers to lubricating the shift cable, throttle cable (seems one and the same), throttle valve, impeller duct & jet thrust nozzle, - any recommended lubricant to use?

2- intermediate housing ( I read on here add gear oil instead?)

3- noticed a bit of play in the steering wheel, anyone know if this can be adjusted?

 

[Babin Farms]

Most of the info that you are looking for is in the FAQ section. https://jetboaters.net/faq/

It's all up to you on the grease or oil in the bearing housing. Some use grease and never had had issues while some others swear by using gear oil.

For the steering I would look under the helm to see if the cable is a little loose where it bolts to the mechanism and also check the pump to see if something may be loose back there. It might just be normal.

 

[Farny]

Only got 2 3/4 liters of oil out? Is this ok? I leveled the motor before extracting and warmed the engine. Checked oil prior and looked like 1/4 of the way above the low mark. Thoughts?

 

[CaptRedbeard]

Not sure about the 1.8 but in my MR1's I got about 3 quarts (just under 3 liters) out by pumping out of the reservoir. It's not the full capacity but that is about normal for that method from my understanding.

 

[kgower]

Only got 2 3/4 liters of oil out? Is this ok? I leveled the motor before extracting and warmed the engine. Checked oil prior and looked like 1/4 of the way above the low mark. Thoughts?

When I did my 10 hour (only service so far) I got just under 3.5 quarts near as could calculate.

 

[Farny]

So I poured all the oil I got out into the empty quart containers - 2.5 quarts. I figured that some was still in the oil filter I pulled off. I put three quarts in, ran the engine for a couple minutes. Checked the oil and dipstick showed just over the bottom mark.

guessing I’m good to go. Would there be any indication later if I overfilled?

 

[HangOutdoors]

Check it on the water and warming up. If it looks good there, you are good to go. I always put just under in and take some with me and check on the water, where I know I am boat level. The bring it up if needed. Soon as I get out of the no wake zone is where I check it.

 

[Farny]

Check it on the water and warming up. If it looks good there, you are good to go. I always put just under in and take some with me and check on the water, where I know I am boat level. The bring it up if needed. Soon as I get out of the no wake zone is where I check it.

Thanks @HangOutdoors - will do next outing this weekend!

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

About to do my 100hr service on 2020 195s. Ordered the kit from @JetBoatPilot, just need to set aside the time this week. Planning on following the owners manual checklist. Appreciate any tips, tricks, and pics anyone has to share.

Questions:

1- Are there any additional lube points to pay attention to? The manual refers to lubricating the shift cable, throttle cable (seems one and the same), throttle valve, impeller duct & jet thrust nozzle, - any recommended lubricant to use?

2- intermediate housing ( I read on here add gear oil instead?)

3- noticed a bit of play in the steering wheel, anyone know if this can be adjusted?

On the TR-1’s, I put the extractor in both the oil removal and the oil fill hole.. I think the 1.8’s are a bit different. I always get 3.5 liters out, I punch holes in the oil filter to let the oil drain down before removing it, again the 1.8’s are different. either way, you should get very close to pulling out the same amount of oil that Is supposed to go into the engine.

The only housing that I know of that people put gear oil in is the rear cone housing, not the intermediate bearing housing. If they are please point me to a thread.

You should be pulling your pump to check the EPNOC grease under the cone, and to check for water intrusion. Be sure and put moly grease on the splines when you put the shaft back in, and put water proof grease on the shaft so it slides into the seals easy. Get a new O ring for the cone before attempting this. You will also need the thread sealant and gasket maker that is specified in the service manual.

Check all of the hoses in the engine bay and pull the clean out tray to get to those back there. Check all the hose clamps for tightness and corrosion, and give everything a hosing of silicone spray to keep the water off.

 

[Farny]

On the TR-1’s, I put the extractor in both the oil removal and the oil fill hole.. I think the 1.8’s are a bit different. I always get 3.5 liters out, I punch holes in the oil filter to let the oil drain down before removing it, again the 1.8’s are different. either way, you should get very close to pulling out the same amount of oil that Is supposed to go into the engine.

The only housing that I know of that people put gear oil in is the rear cone housing, not the intermediate bearing housing. If they are please point me to a thread.

You should be pulling your pump to check the EPNOC grease under the cone, and to check for water intrusion. Be sure and put moly grease on the splines when you put the shaft back in, and put water proof grease on the shaft so it slides into the seals easy. Get a new O ring for the cone before attempting this. You will also need the thread sealant and gasket maker that is specified in the service manual.

Check all of the hoses in the engine bay and pull the clean out tray to get to those back there. Check all the hose clamps for tightness and corrosion, and give everything a hosing of silicone spray to keep the water off.

Thanks! Hoses clamps etc all looked like new and were tight. Will give the cone grease a go after I find the o ring and gasket maker.

https://jetboaters.net/members/cobra-jet-steering-llc.207/

mentions it https://jetboaters.net/threads/changing-yamaha-jet-boat-pump-duct-housing-bearings-and-switching-to-oil-bath-lubrication.10155/post-585724

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

Here‘s the consumables that I used. I’ve had my pumps in and out several times testing different impellers and the gasket maker is good stuff… in my experience it has stayed pliable, and it is different from the factory sealer but is what is specified in my service manual. The pumps on my boat were a bit of a bugger to get off the first time as the factory sealant was put on liberally, not messy, and it has a certain adhesive property. The Loc Tite product allows the pump to come off with a few shoves on the pump.

The thread sealant needs to be cleaned off the bolt threads and out of the threads in the transom plate so a thread cleaning tap, or a tap will be a good idea to have on hand. If you don’t do this there is a very good chance the bolts will not seat the pump prop when torqued down. Keep in mind you are torquing a steel bolt into an aluminum plate, so take your time and clean all the old sealant off the male and female threads before applying the new sealant and re assembling. This will assure you can disassemble the unit easily in the future.

Gasket maker:

Loctite 518 50ml Red Gasket Eliminator Tube: Gasket Removing Compounds: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Loctite 518 50ml Red Gasket Eliminator Tube: Gasket Removing Compounds: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Thread sealant:

https://www.amazon.com/567-Thread-Sealant-50-Tube/dp/B01N9ZH553/ref=sr_1_4?crid=K3IC1FR6O4UK&keywords=572%2BThread%2BSealant%2C%2BLow%2BStrength%2B-%2B50ml%2BThread%2Bsealant%2B572low%2BStrength&qid=1653048126&s=industrial&sprefix=572%2Bthread%2Bsealant%2C%2Blow%2Bstrength%2B-%2B50ml%2Bthread%2Bsealant%2B572low%2Bstrength%2B%2Cindustrial%2C147&sr=1-4&th=1

EPNOC grease:

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

Molybdenum disulfide grease for the shaft splines:

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease - ACC-MOLDM-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease - ACC-MOLDM-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

 

[Farny]

Here‘s the consumables that I used. I’ve had my pumps in and out several times testing different impellers and the gasket maker is good stuff… in my experience it has stayed pliable, and it is different from the factory sealer but is what is specified in my service manual. The pumps on my boat were a bit of a bugger to get off the first time as the factory sealant was put on liberally, not messy, and it has a certain adhesive property. The Loc Tite product allows the pump to come off with a few shoves on the pump.

The thread sealant needs to be cleaned off the bolt threads and out of the threads in the transom plate so a thread cleaning tap, or a tap will be a good idea to have on hand. If you don’t do this there is a very good chance the bolts will not seat the pump prop when torqued down. Keep in mind you are torquing a steel bolt into an aluminum plate, so take your time and clean all the old sealant off the male and female threads before applying the new sealant and re assembling. This will assure you can disassemble the unit easily in the future.

Gasket maker:

Loctite 518 50ml Red Gasket Eliminator Tube: Gasket Removing Compounds: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Loctite 518 50ml Red Gasket Eliminator Tube: Gasket Removing Compounds: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

www.amazon.com

Thread sealant:

https://www.amazon.com/567-Thread-Sealant-50-Tube/dp/B01N9ZH553/ref=sr_1_4?crid=K3IC1FR6O4UK&keywords=572%2BThread%2BSealant%2C%2BLow%2BStrength%2B-%2B50ml%2BThread%2Bsealant%2B572low%2BStrength&qid=1653048126&s=industrial&sprefix=572%2Bthread%2Bsealant%2C%2Blow%2Bstrength%2B-%2B50ml%2Bthread%2Bsealant%2B572low%2Bstrength%2B%2Cindustrial%2C147&sr=1-4&th=1

EPNOC grease:

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha New OEM Epnoc Jet Pump Grease 5oz, ACC-EPNOC-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

Molybdenum disulfide grease for the shaft splines:

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease - ACC-MOLDM-GS-05 : Automotive

Amazon.com: Yamaha Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease - ACC-MOLDM-GS-05 : Automotive

www.amazon.com

thank you for the links and all the great info you provided. Initially I was thinking the boat is less than two years old so I won’t mess with the pump, but now thinking it needs to be done.

 

[FSH 210 Sport]

thank you for the links and all the great info you provided. Initially I was thinking the boat is less than two years old so I won’t mess with the pump, but now thinking it needs to be done.

Well, there are several posts talking about at least an inspection every 100 hours to make sure there is no water intrusion. I don’t think there is a call for it in the owners or service manual. BUT, how’s the old saying go? An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Or my favorite, “ luck favors those that are prepared”

I think I checked mine around 70-100 hours since I was testing high altitude impellers, everything looked perfect, I did add some more EPNOC grease and put on new O rings. I’ve got roughly 200 hours on my boat now, and I am not planning on pulling them till next winter so I’ll have well over 200 hours at the next cone grease inspection, unless I pull the pumps again to test another impeller set, then I’ll inspect them again. I’ve thought about going to the gear oil / oil bath set up and may consider doing that in the future, it sure seems like that would give superior lubrication. Most folks only put about 25-30 hours a year on their engines, I put on 138 hours last year and this year it could be significantly more if my trip plans come to fruition.

But then again you read about people never inspecting the bearings and have well over 450 hours before they look at them and they’re fine, others have way less hours and had water intrusion/bearing failure. I think the key is making sure that there is some grease on the O ring that is on the cone and taking care not to pinch the O ring during assembly.

Just be sure you hold the pump / shaft at the installed angle when you are pulling it out, don’t drop the pump assembly down until the shaft is totally clear of the housing. There is a piece of what looks like heavy duty radiator hose that connects the intermediate bearing housing to the transom plate and if you allow the pump assembly to drop down the drive shaft will impinge on that hose.

 

[HawaiiBreeze]

That seems like a larger amount of oil missing than I would expect based on my oil changes and the plugs look darker than mine. However, I have CA 4-Star Energy model SX190 and that may be the reason for the differences. They are supposed to run super lean.

The other things I would add since I recently did my own are:

1. Open the wet locker hatch, remove the plate and get a good look into the bilge area. Reason: Many of my hose clamps for the exhaust system needed cleaning of rust blooms and tightening. Plus I pulled out some junk that was clogging up behind the drain holes.

2. Pull the battery wires and inspect for creeping rust or corrosion, clean off, lube up and re-install.

3. Get up into the dash and look at the steering mechanism. Mine need some lube on the push/pull lever. I do not have the rack and pinion like others though.

4. If you have a fuse panel, go through the fuses and check for rust blooms. I found small bits of corrosion on the battery source wires too. Clean and lube up.

5. This one is for anyone doing night boating...install your light pole and make sure it works and is secure. I found that one of the 3 bolts holding the plastic socket for the light pole is pulling through the fiberglass leaving that pole really wobbly. Have yet to repair that one though due to the need to crawl into the starboard hold to get at the nuts and bolts.