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Possible lawsuit against Scarab/Glastron/RBH (discussion thread)

ALAN MANN SR.

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I am looking at a little over $700.00 for a supercharger rebuild in 58 hours. That is a complete rebuild.
 

Derenzy

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I am looking at a little over $700.00 for a supercharger rebuild in 58 hours. That is a complete rebuild.
wow. why so soon?
especially if its supposed to last 200 hours

the boat i'm looking at I'm sure hasnt' been done, only 80 hours, but 4 years old - that's a shitty bill every 2 years
side question - does these scarab HO's super chargers need premium gas for the supercharge engine?
 

Beachbummer

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ALAN MANN SR.

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Yes that is pull it yourself, ship to them and then install yourself. Hope you don't run into any problems. And also better be good at it and have the proper tools.
 
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Dwayne Henderson

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Can anyone confirm that most of these issues have been addressed on the 2018 255 opens? I’m getting close to trading in my Yamaha FSH 190 for the Scarab. I was also considering the FSH 210, but now I’m undecided. My Yamaha 190 is a bit under powered for what I do. I think the 255 open with 200’s would be perfect. When I got my Yamaha, it had all kinds of issues, but it wasn’t about to sink. This carbon seal thing, and a hit or miss engine alighnment issue seems unreasonable.
 

ALAN MANN SR.

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I own a 2015 165 HO with a 250 HP from new with very few issues. I think the carbon seal issue is because of not reading the owners manual and over heating it when flushing. I flush mine every time I use it and have 145 hrs. on her and I use it in salt water all the time. One minute, or two max. Ingesting rope or other debris will damage any jet boat. Engine alignment I am not to sure of but have not seen many issues of that. And as far as the 200 HP to the 250 HP I would go for the 250's because the only difference is the placement of the intercooler. I would rather have the intercooler outside the engine not inside the intake. And the big thing here is MAINTENACE. Keep her clean and lubed.
 

ALAN MANN SR.

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All I am saying is you might regret it later down the road. not to say the 200,s don't have enough power but another 100 horses can't hurt. Good luck with your decision and boat shopping.
 

Joseph Baxter

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I am super late to this thread. We own the first out of production line Scarab 195 HO Impulse. Can someone summarize the issue please? Anything would be appreciated. From what I am reading there is an issue with the carbon seal coming loose? Is that the only issue addressed for the water intrusion? I have had a lot of QC issues: screws backing out, nuts backing out, arm rest falling off, bolster seat broken, throttle panel broke off (and the knuckle heads have no idea what part to send me even after I give them part number and picture). Biggest thing now is the fact that I cannot find a local dealer to clear the maintenance light for me. My dealer has since stopped selling and the Seadoo places cannot get the program unless they are a Scarab dealer. Completely disappointed with what I just mentioned.
 
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ApelilaRains

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Prosper, Tx
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Can anyone confirm that most of these issues have been addressed on the 2018 255 opens? I’m getting close to trading in my Yamaha FSH 190 for the Scarab. I was also considering the FSH 210, but now I’m undecided. My Yamaha 190 is a bit under powered for what I do. I think the 255 open with 200’s would be perfect. When I got my Yamaha, it had all kinds of issues, but it wasn’t about to sink. This carbon seal thing, and a hit or miss engine alighnment issue seems unreasonable.
I own a 2018 Scarab 255 Wake back in late Sept 2018. I have over 25 hours on it since and so far so good. Before we picked up our boat, the dealer went through an astringent check list verify that all "concerned" popular issues are looked at before we departed the shop and as well as a 2 hours walk through with is on the water. SO FAR (knock on wood), we have not had any issues at all.
 

Slugger55

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I am super late to this thread. We own the first out of production line Scarab 195 HO Impulse. Can someone summarize the issue please? Anything would be appreciated. From what I am reading there is an issue with the carbon seal coming loose? Is that the only issue addressed for the water intrusion? I have had a lot of QC issues: screws backing out, nuts backing out, arm rest falling off, bolster seat broken, throttle panel broke off (and the knuckle heads have no idea what part to send me even after I give them part number and picture). Biggest thing now is the fact that I cannot find a local dealer to clear the maintenance light for me. My dealer has since stopped selling and the Seadoo places cannot get the program unless they are a Scarab dealer. Completely disappointed with what I just mentioned.
The other issue is the exhaust hose leaving the water box and passing through the transom20170916_112941 1.jpg 20170916_112941 1.jpg 20170916_112911.jpg 20170916_112911.jpg . It just falls off due to the clamps either are not tight or fail. There is a recall on those items...
 

russ chambers

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We need as many people on that thread as possible to have a chance at getting the company to accept responsibility for their boat's issues. Let's get this done folks.

@PapaBear @wango tango I know you guys have had issues recently. Please get your info on there.
My Scarab 195 Ho impulse, 2015 65 hours It worked fine for the first MI summer. Than the second summer happened. 1) I was out in Lake Michigan when the pilots chair fell off. 500 bucks 2) out in Lake Lansing I lost thrust thought I suck something up but nothing in the intake. Limped back into the launch took it to the marina. They stayed it was a issue with the impeller 2,500 bucks later and lost 2 months of 2nt summer. 3) last week out in lake Lansing with family and Lost thrust again, this time the boat was filling up with water where the Driveshaft comes into the Engine compartment Faster than the bilge pump could pump out luckily there was one jatskier here in the Lake able to get us to lunch before we sink And the best part is, needs a new Engine and the marina is telling me two months if I’m lucky. So I’ve been paying on a boat loan all these year and I won’t be able to have are boat for most of this summer I am so mad and it seems The marina and scarab don’t even care.

Best
Russ
 

Joe Vincent

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Delaware
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I bought my boat new, 255 HO, in August 2016. We racked up 12 hours by the end of September 2016, at which time the boat was put away for the winter. However, oil and filters were changed at 10 hours and drive shafts were lubed (I performed this myself). I contacted the dealer in late June of 2017 about a leak that caused the bilge pump to kick on every 20-30 minutes while anchored. He responded with an email that said to lube the driveshaft and check the drain plugs. In early August 2017 the boat was dropped off to officially diagnose the problem and also to replace the gauge cluster, as it had spider web cracks in the plastic face (boat has 24 hours). On August 30, 2017 I asked what was going on with the boat he responded "We removed the ride plates to reseal them where the water intrusion was. I should have a gauge cluster here tomorrow or Friday from BRP." At that point he had the boat almost a month. We picked the boat up on September the 8th, drove straight to the boat launch and the boat wouldn't start. We called the dealer and he couldn't figure it out, so back to the dealer the boat went. He has the boat another week to figure out why it won't start and the solution was that they forgot to marry the new gauge cluster to the computer. Boat was picked up September 15th, oil and filters were changed, driveshafts lubed (all by me) and then put in the garage for winter storage. The boat was put in the water for the first time this year on May 26th, but only for a short ride across the bay. As I was pulling the boat out of the water the bilge pump kicked on, which made me question wether the dealer had actually fixed the problem from 2017. With all the crapy weather we didn't get a chance to take it out again until June 16th. While riding out to the sandbar the check engine light comes on with fault code P2245. While anchored watching my kids play on the sandbar the bilge pump kicks on. So I started the timer on my phone and at 22 minutes the bilge kicked on again. I immediately emailed the dealer telling him about the problems and he emailed me back saying that he didn't see where any oil changes had been performed. I was unaware that an oil change could cause water to build in the bilge area (being facetious). So I took the boat to him the next day (boat has 27 hours). While at his store the following day I told him I did some research the prior evening and found that the carbon seal seems like the likely cause of the water intrusion. He states that it couldn't be the carbon seal as they don't wear out until 200-300 hours and that if it were the carbon seal then there would have to be some kind of misalignment in the drive shaft. He informed me that he would be talking to scarab to figure out this problem. His email from June 22 states "We were able to get it squeezed in the shop late yesterday. So we could remove the exhaust pipes to gain access to thru-hull fittings. We found you have a carbon ring leak at this time. We are getting parts from BRP as well as an oxygen sensor for check engine light." This leads me to believe that the dealers and mechanics are either inept, under trained or getting the wrong information from scarab.
 

Robert Sands

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I bought my boat new, 255 HO, in August 2016. We racked up 12 hours by the end of September 2016, at which time the boat was put away for the winter. However, oil and filters were changed at 10 hours and drive shafts were lubed (I performed this myself). I contacted the dealer in late June of 2017 about a leak that caused the bilge pump to kick on every 20-30 minutes while anchored. He responded with an email that said to lube the driveshaft and check the drain plugs. In early August 2017 the boat was dropped off to officially diagnose the problem and also to replace the gauge cluster, as it had spider web cracks in the plastic face (boat has 24 hours). On August 30, 2017 I asked what was going on with the boat he responded "We removed the ride plates to reseal them where the water intrusion was. I should have a gauge cluster here tomorrow or Friday from BRP." At that point he had the boat almost a month. We picked the boat up on September the 8th, drove straight to the boat launch and the boat wouldn't start. We called the dealer and he couldn't figure it out, so back to the dealer the boat went. He has the boat another week to figure out why it won't start and the solution was that they forgot to marry the new gauge cluster to the computer. Boat was picked up September 15th, oil and filters were changed, driveshafts lubed (all by me) and then put in the garage for winter storage. The boat was put in the water for the first time this year on May 26th, but only for a short ride across the bay. As I was pulling the boat out of the water the bilge pump kicked on, which made me question wether the dealer had actually fixed the problem from 2017. With all the crapy weather we didn't get a chance to take it out again until June 16th. While riding out to the sandbar the check engine light comes on with fault code P2245. While anchored watching my kids play on the sandbar the bilge pump kicks on. So I started the timer on my phone and at 22 minutes the bilge kicked on again. I immediately emailed the dealer telling him about the problems and he emailed me back saying that he didn't see where any oil changes had been performed. I was unaware that an oil change could cause water to build in the bilge area (being facetious). So I took the boat to him the next day (boat has 27 hours). While at his store the following day I told him I did some research the prior evening and found that the carbon seal seems like the likely cause of the water intrusion. He states that it couldn't be the carbon seal as they don't wear out until 200-300 hours and that if it were the carbon seal then there would have to be some kind of misalignment in the drive shaft. He informed me that he would be talking to scarab to figure out this problem. His email from June 22 states "We were able to get it squeezed in the shop late yesterday. So we could remove the exhaust pipes to gain access to thru-hull fittings. We found you have a carbon ring leak at this time. We are getting parts from BRP as well as an oxygen sensor for check engine light." This leads me to believe that the dealers and mechanics are either inept, under trained or getting the wrong information from scarab.
The gauge cluster thing happened to me. Same issue, they forgot to marry to the computer.
 

Scarabtech

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As a certified rotax technician at a Scarab dealership I can tell you that if your having issues with carbon rings, pto seals, driveshaft of impeller splines make sure you have your service center check that the engine is aligned properly. I can say that I personally have found that probably around 80% of the ones inspected are not aligned properly. We have tried to get them to cover this and been told that there is not a known problem.
 

255IDTwin300s

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As a certified rotax technician at a Scarab dealership I can tell you that if your having issues with carbon rings, pto seals, driveshaft of impeller splines make sure you have your service center check that the engine is aligned properly. I can say that I personally have found that probably around 80% of the ones inspected are not aligned properly. We have tried to get them to cover this and been told that there is not a known problem.
Thank you for this. If I can ask you please, how ( roughly) are the engines checked for proper alignment? Is it a degreeing thing where you can test to see if the shafts are of by a degree or so? Just curious of the process of how techs are supposed to check and see if the engine is properly aligned.

I ask this because when I went full throttle this last weekend, I felt a vibration that like a strong humming/buzzing that had reverb to it throughout the hull. this scared me due to thinking logically that something is out of round and definitely not smooth. The best way to explain the vibration was that it felt like a giant 4 foot Dremmel was bolted to the boats hull spinning at 20,000 rpms causing a strong humming/vibration through the boat.

Just found this.. How To Check the Engine Alignment on Your Sea-Doo PWC
Obviously on a ski but can't imagine it being much diff on the BRP powered Jet boats.
 
Last edited:

swatski

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Thank you for this. If I can ask you please, how ( roughly) are the engines checked for proper alignment? Is it a degreeing thing where you can test to see if the shafts are of by a degree or so? Just curious of the process of how techs are supposed to check and see if the engine is properly aligned.

I ask this because when I went full throttle this last weekend, I felt a vibration that like a strong humming/buzzing that had reverb to it throughout the hull. this scared me due to thinking logically that something is out of round and definitely not smooth. The best way to explain the vibration was that it felt like a giant 4 foot Dremmel was bolted to the boats hull spinning at 20,000 rpms causing a strong humming/vibration through the boat.

Just found this.. How To Check the Engine Alignment on Your Sea-Doo PWC
Obviously on a ski but can't imagine it being much diff on the BRP powered Jet boats.
NOT AN EXPERT but I would consider a possibility this may also be due to a (possibly very small) piece of debris stuck in the pump - between the impeller and the wear ring. It can be a really small, match-sized, chunk of wood - that can make the boat shake and vibrate violently.
Just wanted to put it out there.

--
 

Elio195HOI

Jetboaters Lieutenant
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NOT AN EXPERT but I would consider a possibility this may also be due to a (possibly very small) piece of debris stuck in the pump - between the impeller and the wear ring. It can be a really small, match-sized, chunk of wood - that can make the boat shake and vibrate violently.
Just wanted to put it out there.

--
Agree... has happened to me before. Violent vibration, then you clear it and back to normal
 
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