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DVSR help...

Two, off and on and it is back lit when it is on.

I got all of my switches and switch tops from new wire marine.
 
I just found them. Thanks.
 
I confirmed today this solution does work....just change the posts at each battery switch to deactivate the DVSR when battery switches are off to independently charge each battery. This is in lieu of a switch on the DVSR ground or snipping the red loop wire. I think a little easier to do.View attachment 218946
Does anyone see a negative side to doing this version?

I recently installed a NOCO 3 bank and need to bypass the DVSR for smart charging. This seems to be the simplest solution that I have found.
 
Well, there is that solution or you can cut the red wire and then land it on the switched side of the start or house battery, or just do as @jcb1977 shows and move the DVSR hot’s from the line / source side of the start and house switch to the load side, that seems straight forward. Having said that I wonder why BEP wired it the way that they did, I am curious to know why, and why BEP has the storage and ignition hot configuration, might be worth a call to them to find out. Usually manufacturers have a reason for doing things the way they did.
 
Well, there is that solution or you can cut the red wire and then land it on the switched side of the start or house battery, or just do as @jcb1977 shows and move the DVSR hot’s from the line / source side of the start and house switch to the load side, that seems straight forward. Having said that I wonder why BEP wired it the way that they did, I am curious to know why, and why BEP has the storage and ignition hot configuration, might be worth a call to them to find out. Usually manufacturers have a reason for doing things the way they did.
Exactly. It seems to simple. Not worth wiring to an ignition switch.

I could see putting it on a rocker switch for convenience.

I just wondered why the manufacturer would do this way.
 
Exactly. It seems to simple. Not worth wiring to an ignition switch.

I could see putting it on a rocker switch for convenience.

I just wondered why the manufacturer would do this way.

Depending on what your set up is wiring the DVSR to a run hot (fuel pump hot) makes it fully automatic and isolates the batteries for start battery conservation and smart charging on the hard.

Mine is currently on a rocker switch, but I may be putting it on a run hot later this summer to test that out. I still like being able to let the start battery come up to 14 volts before I turn on the DVSR and allow the LFP battery to start charging.

Yep, I may have to give bep marine a shout next week to find that answer.
 
I have decided to add a BEP DVSR Bypass Switch(For Smart Charging/Long Term Storage). See photo.

I am just going to use the factory Red Wire Loop for Storage Mode Control.

It should look “factory”.
 

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I have decided to add a BEP DVSR Bypass Switch(For Smart Charging/Long Term Storage). See photo.

I am just going to use the factory Red Wire Loop for Storage Mode Control.

It should look “factory”.
you could just put a toggle or rocker switch on the DVSR ground.
 
Well, there is that solution or you can cut the red wire and then land it on the switched side of the start or house battery, or just do as @jcb1977 shows and move the DVSR hot’s from the line / source side of the start and house switch to the load side, that seems straight forward. Having said that I wonder why BEP wired it the way that they did, I am curious to know why, and why BEP has the storage and ignition hot configuration, might be worth a call to them to find out. Usually manufacturers have a reason for doing things the way they did.
I wonder why they do it this way too...the only thing I can think of is for solar chargers. you would want to be able to charge both batteries from the single solar charge and be able keep the battery switches off when doing this.
 
So what’s the story with this switch?
I am adding it to the BEP DVSR Red Wire Loop for Storage Mode Control. So when the boat is use the start battery, house battery, and DVSR bypass switch will be on. When the boat is not in use, all three switches will be off which will allow for smart charging with my Noco 10x3.
 
you could just put a toggle or rocker switch on the DVSR ground.
I am using the BEP brand switch because I thought it would look nice at $34.
 
I wonder why they do it this way too...the only thing I can think of is for solar chargers. you would want to be able to charge both batteries from the single solar charge and be able keep the battery switches off when doing this.
That would be one of the only reasons that I can think of with modern day multi-bank smart chargers.
 
Or you could save the $34 and land the red wire on the switched side of the start or house battery switch then it’s kind of a no brainer, turn the batteries in to use the boat and the dvsr is active, turn them off when it’s on the trailer and hooked up to shore power and the dvsr is in active.

It does look cool though
 
Or you could save the $34 and land the red wire on the switched side of the start or house battery switch then it’s kind of a no brainer, turn the batteries in to use the boat and the dvsr is active, turn them off when it’s on the trailer and hooked up to shore power and the dvsr is in active.

It does look cool though
I almost did exactly as you suggest with the wiring to the switched side. I guess I just made the decision to do it this way. I am already switching the other two on/off so I can’t imagine missing it during startup/shutdown….quit making me second guess myself after making a decision and blowing $34 on an unnecessary switch. ?
 
I almost did exactly as you suggest with the wiring to the switched side. I guess I just made the decision to do it this way. I am already switching the other two on/off so I can’t imagine missing it during startup/shutdown….quit making me second guess myself after making a decision and blowing $34 on an unnecessary switch. ?

Right on…as I said, looks cool / trick, and its your boat!
 
Done…for now. Mission accomplished. Life is full of small victories.
IMG_9044.jpegIMG_9043.jpeg
 
Nice to know for certain that there is no power going anywhere when working on the motor or elsewhere.
:thumbsup:
 
After a long conversation with Dale (@FSH 210 Sport) I decided to order a Battle Born LiFePO4 battery to replace my aging Group 31 AGM house battery. I will be leaving my current AGM start battery in the boat as it works fine. My plan is to clip the red DVSR wire and connect it to one of the fuel pump hot wires. My conundrum is that I haven't accessed the fuel tank area yet so I'm not sure which of the fuel pump wires is the hot. On some boats there is a black and a blue wire in the harness so that's easy but I saw a fuel pump thread that showed what looked like a new connector but it did not show the wires going into the connector. So I'm looking for someone that has a boat of similar vintage to mine that has done this mod or has experience with the fuel pump wiring. My plan is to do this mod with the boat out of the water so I won't be able to start the engines to check voltage at the harness with a volt meter.

Thanks in advance for any feedback. :)
 
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