190/192/195 Speeds and Mods

[jgourlie]

Now that you’ve done the intercooler your boat with benefit greatly from not getting heat soak. You’ll be able to squeeze a few more mph with some impeller work.

Yes, I do believe some impeller work is coming in my future. I am pretty happy with the results so far, so it can only get better from here on out.

 

[Hydroracer125]

2017 AR 195 90hrs.
Ribbon Delete, K&N CAI Filter, Engine Breather Filter, Lucky 13 Cone, Stock Boost, Stock Impeller
Lucky 13 cone (No Spacers)
Air temp 40f, Water temp 48f.
50.8GPS. RPMs: 7,650
Reduced Cavitation at WOT on hole shot.
Use 91 Octane
Full tank, 1 adult, 200 lbs gear, no wind, calm water conditions

2nd test
Same conditions
Lucky 13 cone (All 3 Spacers installed)
50.0 GPS, RPMs: 7,600
Zero cavitation at WOT on hole shot.
The boat just launched.

@SamCF I was very surprised with the listed mod's that I didn't see any increase in speed. Before running a tune, I have been thinking about changing out the impeller. However I will be primarily using the boat for wake surfing and that is the main reason I got the lucky 13, was to reduce cavitation while loaded down with ballast. Thoughts?

What elevation are you at? Do you have a part number for your K&N CAI?

 

[kgower]

For those that have done the Lucky 13 mod.
1. Has anyone done it on a 195S?
2. Is it a relatively easy swap?
3. Can it be done as a standalone or should it be done in conjunction with other upgrades?
4. Any special tools required?
5. Are the number of spacers (1-3) a preference or model dependent for the best results?

 

[JBehrens]

For those that have done the Lucky 13 mod.
1. Has anyone done it on a 195S?
2. Is it a relatively easy swap?
3. Can it be done as a standalone or should it be done in conjunction with other upgrades?
4. Any special tools required?
5. Are the number of spacers (1-3) a preference or model dependent for the best results?

1. Many have done the L13 on the SVHO engine/pump, installation and overall performance should be similar to any 2018+ 195.
2. Install is really easy/straightforward, you don't need to be super mechanically inclined to do the installation. There is a copy of the pump service manual on the forum that lists exact instructions for reassembly and the torque specifications for everything. Just be sure to not break the shift cable like I did. The whole process has about 10 bolts and thats about it.
3. I did mine with an impeller swap but that is not required and I would recommend doing one mod at a time to measure performance changes. You may find that an impeller swap will provide more performance depending on your altitude. You will want to test out different amounts of spacers on the cone, start with 10m and experiment to find what feels best for your boat. The goal is to maintain best top speed while eliminating cavitation on takeoff. Too many spacers and you loose top speed, too few and you will have cavitation.
4. No crazy tools required, just a basic socket set, hex keys, wire brush to clean the bolt threads, torque wrench, sealants (just the thread and flange sealant). See this post on what sealants you need to get and the breakdown of the pump: https://jetboaters.net/threads/2015-242-s-impellers-and-wear-rings-replacement.18767/ and https://jetboaters.net/threads/lucky-13-l13-anti-cavitation-cone-install-2016-ar240.12099/
5. The number of spacers will be dependent on the amount of cavitation correction vs top speed as mentioned above. I ordered additional 1m and 2m spacers for more fine tune adjustments, it's overall a matter of trial and error. If you can, grab a friend go to the lake on a quiet day, make a few laps (dead stop to full throttle, top speed and midrange tests), pull the boat, make a change, do it again. Record your results of each run and go with what feels right to you. Most go for 10m or 8m and have a good time, usually the priority is to eliminate cavitation over top speed.

 

[kgower]

1. Many have done the L13 on the SVHO engine/pump, installation and overall performance should be similar to any 2018+ 195.
2. Install is really easy/straightforward, you don't need to be super mechanically inclined to do the installation. There is a copy of the pump service manual on the forum that lists exact instructions for reassembly and the torque specifications for everything. Just be sure to not break the shift cable like I did. The whole process has about 10 bolts and thats about it.
3. I did mine with an impeller swap but that is not required and I would recommend doing one mod at a time to measure performance changes. You may find that an impeller swap will provide more performance depending on your altitude. You will want to test out different amounts of spacers on the cone, start with 10m and experiment to find what feels best for your boat. The goal is to maintain best top speed while eliminating cavitation on takeoff. Too many spacers and you loose top speed, too few and you will have cavitation.
4. No crazy tools required, just a basic socket set, hex keys, wire brush to clean the bolt threads, torque wrench, sealants (just the thread and flange sealant). See this post on what sealants you need to get and the breakdown of the pump: https://jetboaters.net/threads/2015-242-s-impellers-and-wear-rings-replacement.18767/ and https://jetboaters.net/threads/lucky-13-l13-anti-cavitation-cone-install-2016-ar240.12099/
5. The number of spacers will be dependent on the amount of cavitation correction vs top speed as mentioned above. I ordered additional 1m and 2m spacers for more fine tune adjustments, it's overall a matter of trial and error. If you can, grab a friend go to the lake on a quiet day, make a few laps (dead stop to full throttle, top speed and midrange tests), pull the boat, make a change, do it again. Record your results of each run and go with what feels right to you. Most go for 10m or 8m and have a good time, usually the priority is to eliminate cavitation over top speed.

@JBehrens Thanks for taking the time, very helpful. I will have to buy/rent a torque wrench and sealants, other than that I should be good to go.

 

[JBehrens]

@JBehrens Thanks for taking the time, very helpful. I will have to buy/rent a torque wrench and sealants, other than that I should be good to go.

No problem!

This might be a good investment, I really like mine and it's helpful for more than just this project: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M68G49R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Links to the sealants are in this post: https://jetboaters.net/threads/2014-sx190-build-thread-off-grid-pic-heavy.27305/#post-459836

 

[AboveTheBest]

@JBehrens Thanks for taking the time, very helpful. I will have to buy/rent a torque wrench and sealants, other than that I should be good to go.

Make sure you replace the O-ring. Regardless of how good the one in the original cone looks when you take it off, do not re-use it.

 

[JoshM]

2016 AR192 something is off. 7000 rpm 40mph. Only mods are fizzle intercooler and riva ribbon delete. Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[jgourlie]

2016 AR192 something is off. 7000 rpm 40mph. Only mods are fizzle intercooler and riva ribbon delete. Anyone have any thoughts?

Spark plugs?

 

[JoshM]

New. What should they be gaped at?

 

[JBehrens]

New. What should they be gaped at?

Should say on the top of the engine

 

[JoshM]

It's correct. Still a 7k rpm.