2016 AR240 budget stereo upgrade

[Majorsmackdown]

ya, I think I'd second that notion, I don't recall having confidence in a large enough, and flat enough area, but that could be a good spot if it fits. I do remember also considering how I was going to cut the hole, I thought I had more room to work with where I stuck it to use a jig saw. I have a rotozip (porter cable brand) rotary tool - but I didn't have help to hold the vacuum and I didn't want to make that much dust, and I was concerned about it bucking - but as thin as the fiberglass is - that might not be an issue with the right bit. With a little luck my boat comes back to me in about a week and then I'll get that sub in place and report back. Have fun.

 

[RightStuff]

For the mid-cabin speakers I used a side cutting bit in my Dremel. It was slow to cut, but did the job very well.

I was in the same position with the vacuum holder being AWOL... I ended up taping it against the wall where I was cutting and just moved it around as I cut around the hole. Not perfect, but got most of the dust.

 

[Derek Fosbury]

When I put a 10" sub there (behind the captain's chair) on my AR210, it was pretty easy. Taking the seat off is easy, so had lots of space. The surface there was flat, but sounds like that's changed with the new 24's. Thanks for the info!

 

[GTBRMC]

ya, I think I'd second that notion, I don't recall having confidence in a large enough, and flat enough area, but that could be a good spot if it fits. I do remember also considering how I was going to cut the hole, I thought I had more room to work with where I stuck it to use a jig saw. I have a rotozip (porter cable brand) rotary tool - but I didn't have help to hold the vacuum and I didn't want to make that much dust, and I was concerned about it bucking - but as thin as the fiberglass is - that might not be an issue with the right bit. With a little luck my boat comes back to me in about a week and then I'll get that sub in place and report back. Have fun.

I did this last year to cut in my sub. Highly recommended.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/how-to-remove-swimdeck-cushions-on-2008-sx-230.5965/#post-102485

 

[Benny Sibbitt]

When adding a new amp and speakers, do I need to run new speaker wires?

 

[Mainah]

@Benny Sibbitt depends on if going with more power hungry speakers and where you are going to put the amp(s). My opinion is that it is always a good idea. Here is the link to upgrade I just finished. https://jetboaters.net/threads/detailed-2016-242-ls-1k-audio-upgrade.9400/#post-160960

 

[Majorsmackdown]

It was quite a bit more wait than I was expecting, but I did get my boat back after de-winterizing (whatever that was) from the dealer. They also installed my 10 gallon tank and wash down pump and did a pretty nice job of that, and I had them put in the sea dek I ordered in the group buy last winter. I'm not too pleased with how that went in - but I'm going to give it a season at least and I'm thinking to have it all redone by gatorstep. But that's another story.

Anyhow I had bought the JL Audio infinite baffle Sub. And by the way - unlike the Polk - the JL comes with a nice grille saving $20 bucks

http://www.amazon.com/JL-Audio-M10IB5-SG-TB-10-inch-Subwoofer/dp/B002NC4H3E?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

and finally got a chance to put it in. It takes a little bit of a smaller hole than the Polk sub, but still went in nicely in the existing hole. This sub does alleviate some of the weird issues I was having with the Polk non infinite baffle sub. The Polk was ok in some ways but weird in many ways - but it didn't self destruct. The downside with the Polk was I had to keep messing with the sub and tone adjustments from song to song and I didn't like that. By the way - Polk does now have an IB subwoofer, and I kinda regretted not knowing about it before buying the JL - as I think it would have gone in with all the existing holes and given the boat that matching Polk look between the sub and the rest of the cockpit speakers.

Oh well - the JL with the grey grille doesn't look out of place. The JL does give you a few colors (red/grey/blue) of inserts in the grille for the logo. It does sound great, goes deep, doesn't have some of the weird vibrations that the Polk did. If you're going through the effort, get a real IB subwoofer to start with. I'm not happy Crutchfield misled me in the first place, but I'm happy to have this done now. The boat sounds awesome !!

 

[Majorsmackdown]

The Polk subs are not infinite baffle. I've used them as IB when the cosmetics needed to match the rest of the Polk speakers, or the system had to come in within a specific budget, and always below their specified power ratings. In the past, Nautique has used the Polk in an IB application. And often the Nautique owner changed it out to a true IB woofer like a high 'Q' JL Audio sub with much improved results.
Here's what you get when you use a lower 'Q' sub driver, like the Polk, in an IB application. Under-damped.
Lower power handling. Less ultimate output. More vibration through the boat. Less midbass attack and transients. Deep bass extension but without the same liveliness that you would have when used in the correct size of enclosure.
The Polk 'MM' or 'UM' subs are actually very decent subs when loaded into a small sealed enclosure. Okay but with definite limitations when used as an IB sub.

I wish I knew as much when I started - but such is life. I didn't realize the funny things going on were cause by the sub - but now those issues are pretty much disappeared. Thanks.

 

[JTC1016]

@Majorsmackdown can you clarify how the wiring harness connection works? I'm doing a similar upgrade this spring and would love to not have to cut all the stock speaker wires. My questions is if you use the harness to run the speaker wires to the amp, how to you keep the rest of the wires in the harness connected to the HU? Does the harness have male and female ends so that you just cut the speaker wires on the harness, route those to the amp and let the rest continue to the HU? None of the pictures of the harness I've seen show both ends. If not, do you just splice the power and gound to the HU so it's less connections. I feel like I'm missing something simple here. Thanks.

 

[JasonSchoenrock]

@Majorsmackdown Thanks for the great write-up! I'm planning to start just with the amp installation. I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty (especially if I can save a few dollars), but I'm also very much an amateur when it comes to electronics. These are most likely going to be very dumb, basic questions, but I'm hoping to save myself some trouble and imitation is the sincerest form of flattery! My questions are:

1. 4 gauge power goes out to the house battery, right? You ran that through a circuit breaker mounted in the battery compartment, right? Is the fuse that comes with the installation kit not beefy enough?
2. Where did you run the ground wire to?
3. For the line level inputs (FR, FL, RR, RL) are there outputs already from the head unit or did you have to tie into some output wires?
4. The blue remote turn on wire - I assume I'll need to cut this and extend it, right?
5. I assume the existing speaker wires run to a chassis now, did you have to cut and splice them into the Metra chassis you mentioned?
6. There was another thread about how the front and tweeters are wired together (I have a 2016 242LS), same for the rear and swim platform speakers - will that affect the amp installation?

Again, thanks for the great write up!

 

[Majorsmackdown]

@Majorsmackdown can you clarify how the wiring harness connection works? I'm doing a similar upgrade this spring and would love to not have to cut all the stock speaker wires. My questions is if you use the harness to run the speaker wires to the amp, how to you keep the rest of the wires in the harness connected to the HU? Does the harness have male and female ends so that you just cut the speaker wires on the harness, route those to the amp and let the rest continue to the HU? None of the pictures of the harness I've seen show both ends. If not, do you just splice the power and gound to the HU so it's less connections. I feel like I'm missing something simple here. Thanks.

Its pretty simple to add an amp like I did. You don't need to chop up any of the boat's wiring. Unplug the head unit cable that delivers power signal to the boats speakers. (I found the existing speaker wires to be fine btw). That plug will match the wiring harness you buy. You'll wire up the loose ends of your harness you bought to the speaker outputs on your amplifier. Then take the plug end of your new harness and connect it to the boats harness you just unplugged. This will simply allow your amp to power the speakers instead of the head unit.

Audio signal to your amp is supplied with rca cables plugged into the headunit's rca output.

Get power where you see fit - I did, and recommend, getting it from the battery with a circuit breaker.

When you have parts in hand it's gonna make more sense.

I hope this helps.

 

[JTC1016]

Its pretty simple to add an amp like I did. You don't need to chop up any of the boat's wiring. Unplug the head unit cable that delivers power signal to the boats speakers. (I found the existing speaker wires to be fine btw). That plug will match the wiring harness you buy. You'll wire up the loose ends of your harness you bought to the speaker outputs on your amplifier. Then take the plug end of your new harness and connect it to the boats harness you just unplugged. This will simply allow your amp to power the speakers instead of the head unit.

Audio signal to your amp is supplied with rca cables plugged into the headunit's rca output.

Get power where you see fit - I did, and recommend, getting it from the battery with a circuit breaker.

When you have parts in hand it's gonna make more sense.

I hope this helps.

Thanks for the quick reply! I think I was over complicating it. I thought the harness had more wires that still needed to connect to the HU.

 

[JasonSchoenrock]

Hi all, I followed all the instructions for the amp install (no sub yet) and the front speakers (and tower speakers) sound great, but there's little if anything coming out of the rear and swim platform speakers. I've triple checked the wires and fader settings and all seems well. I saw in another thread that the rear and swim platform are wired in series (or parallel?) not sure which - could that be a problem with the new amp? Any other ideas for troubleshooting?

 

[David Analog]

Reading the comments about certain products placed in the wrong application. Just buy from Odin at Earmark Marine. Odin is an authorized on-line dealer for both Wetsounds and JL Audio. Odin asks lots of questions and will automatically analyze the system on your behalf. In many cases, when the order didn't seem to make sense, he stopped the shipment until he had a chance to speak with the boat owner. He knows the differences and wants your system to be right. And Odin is your best technical resource during the installation process, not to mention he has forgotten more about system tuning than most will ever know.

 

[Jaylex]

Can anyone who has the Polk 651's comment on how they like them?

The specs look good, but I've been contemplating different inboats but they have a good price and great reviews.

Very helpful thread, picking up an AR240 and want to upgrade the system so I'm in the same boat, no pun intended.

 

[swatski]

Can anyone who has the Polk 651's comment on how they like them?

The specs look good, but I've been contemplating different inboats but they have a good price and great reviews.

Very helpful thread, picking up an AR240 and want to upgrade the system so I'm in the same boat, no pun intended.

In my totally non-expert opinion, they sound surprisingly good for the price, provided:

1. adequate amp(s) is a must
2. need at least 6-8 speakers in a 240 (mids must be custom mounted - no factory speakers midcabin in the ARs, same with swim platform; otherwise - plug and play as factory replacement)

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[Jaylex]

I was thinking of doing 6 of them, with 2 on the rear swim platform, and then add 2 towers (undecided brand) and a sub.

Based on the price, and reviews it seems like a no brainer, but I see a few other brands out there that might be worth the extra coin. The Polks seem to have a lower impedence 3.2ohms so that could be a good thing to power them up with a solid amp.

Are the better for the money, and put the savings into a better amp, or spend the extra money on bigger speakers, like Bluave 7's?

 

[swatski]

I was thinking of doing 6 of them, with 2 on the rear swim platform, and then add 2 towers (undecided brand) and a sub.

Based on the price, and reviews it seems like a no brainer, but I see a few other brands out there that might be worth the extra coin. The Polks seem to have a lower impedence 3.2ohms so that could be a good thing to power them up with a solid amp.

Are the better for the money, and put the savings into a better amp, or spend the extra money on bigger speakers, like Bluave 7's?

I can't speak about amps much, I'm using two Clarion XC1410 with 8 DB651 that works well.

I will say though, the mid cabin pair is pretty critical for overall success, especially with those (relatively modest) DB651 speakers. It is a fairly simple install, follow the @fraserjr recent posts - very good instructions and tons of good info.
https://jetboaters.net/threads/easiest-way-to-add-amplify-music-at-the-helm.12049/

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[Jaylex]

Really trying hard not to cut into the new boat if possible, might not be a way around it.

 

[d_coyne1984]

Can anyone who has the Polk 651's comment on how they like them?

The specs look good, but I've been contemplating different inboats but they have a good price and great reviews.

Very helpful thread, picking up an AR240 and want to upgrade the system so I'm in the same boat, no pun intended.

Dollar for dollar, I don't think you will find a better speaker. I consider myself a bit of an audiophile and there is only so much you can do with a craft that has no roof, and often is travelling at 30+ mph with noisy engines, so I am very pleased with both the bass response and the highs from the Polk db series considering their price point. Now could you install even better sounding speakers? Absolutely. Personally I just feel the higher price point doesn't match the boost in quality though. I completely agree with @swatski about having an array of speakers throughout the boat, especially if you like to listen at speed, but that goes for any boat setup regardless of speaker choice. I have the stock 4-db 651's in my AR192 and I should have at least 6 to be able to adequately hear my music at speed. I had to push them pretty hard to really get to listen well. I added a 10" sub last year and removed some of the lower frequencies from the 651's though and now it sounds really solid at speed or sitting still and I'm not too worried about blowing them with a little of the low end moved from the 651's to the sub. If you decided you wanted to go up a level, the Polk MM series are fantastic. That's the way I would like to go once the boat is paid for.